Xray NT1

[ToysRUsKid]

Originally Posted by Omarko

just finished building my first NT1 its the '09 version with few hop ups from 3R , let me know what you think guys!

final photo :


Rest of the photos are here - LINK CLICK HERE

I'm confused. Was the dog an aftermarket hopup or included in the '09 kit? If it's an aftermarket, why is it not red like your other parts? I didn't see it on the finish build of the car, did you test and find out your lap times were slower with it bolted on?

[Nitro-Racer*]

hahahahaha : lol:

[freestyles]

I just swapped my front steering knuckles (stock) for the 1 degree king pin type and i was just wondering if you have to use less static camber when using these or do you just set up as normal?

[romuald31]

Hello from France,
set the camber as usual.
I use the 1° for a long time, and I prefer, with my driving style, the car is smoother.

[romuald31]

Hello from France,

I'm preparing some news on the weight of the NT1.

I made a standart NT1-09 (options: only alu wheel hex and yellow clutch shoe) + RB T9Rc + RB 2604 + Ins Box + Gas Cooler + heavy Sanwa servos + Ni-Mh 1600mAh receiver battery + personal transponder + Stratus 3.1 + RB SpeedLine Tyres 56mm diameter

The result:




And now, I prepare the NT1-09 Super Legerra.

Only with lightweight XRay options...and more...



I hope, I will drop to 1700g!!!

Au revoir.

[DS Motorsport]

For 4.27 euros it is sold.

I've made a light weight nt1 aswell.

Without any lead weights or brass lipo tray it was 1598 grams.

The stuff i changed on my car:

Capricorn pillow balls
Capricorn rear driveshafts
Low profile throttle servo
Removed the receiver box
Super small lipo battery (700 mah) Also allowed the tank to be lowered by 4mm.
Serpent lightweight wc clutch
Titanium and magnesium screws on topside of the car.
Titanium turnbuckles
Hollow 2 speed and mid axle
Delrin pillowball retainers
Drilled out a lot of pieces like the 2 speed gear carriers, brake disk carrier, servo saver post.


I was planning to go even further with ceramic bearings, titanium hingepins, titanium shockshafts and maybe titanium cvd's but that is all for next year.

[RC MARKET]

Originally Posted by romuald31

Hello from France,

I'm preparing some news on the weight of the NT1.

I made a standart NT1-09 (options: only alu wheel hex and yellow clutch shoe) + RB T9Rc + RB 2604 + Ins Box + Gas Cooler + heavy Sanwa servos + Ni-Mh 1600mAh receiver battery + personal transponder + Stratus 3.1 + RB SpeedLine Tyres 56mm diameter

The result:




And now, I prepare the NT1-09 Super Legerra.

Only with lightweight XRay options...and more...



I hope, I will drop to 1700g!!!

Au revoir.

wa too ... !
my car 16xxg only ,
changed tit. screw 2pcs shaft clutch bell flywheel ...

[TomB]

Originally Posted by RC MARKET

wa too ... !
my car 16xxg only ,
changed tit. screw 2pcs shaft clutch bell flywheel ...

keep us updated on the strength of those aluminium pivot balls. i can't see them being too strong, but the weight saving is massive.

i think they will bend easily personally

[ToysRUsKid]

I use the lightweight pivot balls and don't have any problems with them. I haven't had any bad crashes to know if they will bend so I can't speak to that, but the weight savings is MASSIVE!!!

[DS Motorsport]

I've already broke a set of alu pivotballs.
The car did not brake at the end of the straight and hit the fence pretty hard.

So you will have a slightly higher risk on breaking some suspension parts.
But i think this weighs up to the massive reduction of unsprung weight.

[musti72]

Originally Posted by DS Motorsport

I've already broke a set of alu pivotballs.
The car did not brake at the end of the straight and hit the fence pretty hard.

So you will have a slightly higher risk on breaking some suspension parts.
But i think this weighs up to the massive reduction of unsprung weight.

So titanium ones from Capricorn for ex. would be a better choice?

[D-nicest]

Originally Posted by musti72

So titanium ones from Capricorn for ex. would be a better choice?

The titanium ones would snap easier being that they're more brittle, the aluminums are more likely to bend in case of impact. The object here is to just not crash lol. I still think the v2 hardened steel pivot balls from Xray are the most durable, but if you're more concerned about weight savings then you'd think other wise..

[TomB]

Originally Posted by D-nicest

The titanium ones would snap easier being that they're more brittle, the aluminums are more likely to bend in case of impact. The object here is to just not crash lol. I still think the v2 hardened steel pivot balls from Xray are the most durable, but if you're more concerned about weight savings then you'd think other wise..

it's a shame that xray don't make a high quality titanium version like mugen made for the mtx4R. these aluminium versions would just be way too soft. i'd rather have one snap than bend, or bend slightly. If it has a small bend in it which you don't notice your car won't track straight. I've had this issue with some cheap 3 racing titanium pivots. it took me ages to figure out it was a slightly bent pivot ball.

[rcfoolz]

Originally Posted by TomB

it's a shame that xray don't make a high quality titanium version like mugen made for the mtx4R. these aluminium versions would just be way too soft. i'd rather have one snap than bend, or bend slightly. If it has a small bend in it which you don't notice your car won't track straight. I've had this issue with some cheap 3 racing titanium pivots. it took me ages to figure out it was a slightly bent pivot ball.

I have been reading this thread for a while now and although I am throwing stones in a glass house (so to say), all this talk about weight savings with pivot balls, titaniam/aluminum....I don't get it. (yes, I have used them in the past, but not anymore)

I've been through all of the lightweight parts you can imagine and a few you couldn't! If you are worried about unsprung wieght, or wieght in general and are wanting to run aluminum or Titanium Pivot Balls, thats the last thing I would consider changing on a car if you race on tracks with walls, those parts are more for tracks that DO NOT have walls. Take that into consideration when using them.

I see a lot of racers that got so concerned about shaving some wieght off thier car, but only to put it back on someplace else. If you look at most any of the fast guys cars, they don't have all the latest and greatest hop-ups, you will find that most run as close to stock as possible. If you want to take wieght out of a car, you should consider taking it out of the rotating mass. For every gram you take out of the rotating mass, it is like taking 5grams off the weight of the car.

[jelayne]

Hi guys I am having an issue getting my camber to set as I would like, I have rebuilt the car and the rear has all new parts. I placed the car at stock settings as per build but the problem comes when I try setting the Rear Camber I have placed the camber link on the #4 hole and I am trying to sent the camber using the Hudy setup to 3 degrees Right and 4degrees on the Left but after fully adjusting the camber turnbuckles I am only able to get 2degrees on both sides.

What could be causing this limitation or is it possible to get 3 degrees camber when the links are in the #4 hole?