Xray NT1
#3556
Perhaps that is the problem.
If the silicone tube is quite long, the soggy feeling ( brake fading ) might have risen. Perhaps you can shorten the silicone tube around 0.3 inches or 1 cm.
In my car, I don't use silicone tubes. I simply set the maximum braking without brake locking through EPA. So far so good, even with box standard equipments.
If the silicone tube is quite long, the soggy feeling ( brake fading ) might have risen. Perhaps you can shorten the silicone tube around 0.3 inches or 1 cm.
In my car, I don't use silicone tubes. I simply set the maximum braking without brake locking through EPA. So far so good, even with box standard equipments.
#3557
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Perhaps that is the problem.
If the silicone tube is quite long, the soggy feeling ( brake fading ) might have risen. Perhaps you can shorten the silicone tube around 0.3 inches or 1 cm.
In my car, I don't use silicone tubes. I simply set the maximum braking without brake locking through EPA. So far so good, even with box standard equipments.
If the silicone tube is quite long, the soggy feeling ( brake fading ) might have risen. Perhaps you can shorten the silicone tube around 0.3 inches or 1 cm.
In my car, I don't use silicone tubes. I simply set the maximum braking without brake locking through EPA. So far so good, even with box standard equipments.
#3558
#3562
I know everyone feels the brakes are weak on the NT1. For kicks I bought the kyosho offroad ACRE bonded semi-metallic brake pads (used in the evo also?). They do not fit out of the box. I had to dremel them, but they do not fade. Running the stock disk. It took a while to dremel, it get's pretty close to almost not working because you take so much material off that you almost don't have a hole anymore for the screw.
The one that is dremeled down the most has to fit into the stock location, the other one the size is not as critical. The "half moon" shape had to be adjusted also but a dremel griding tool was the perfect fit.
The one that is dremeled down the most has to fit into the stock location, the other one the size is not as critical. The "half moon" shape had to be adjusted also but a dremel griding tool was the perfect fit.
Last edited by jk1152; 12-11-2008 at 10:15 PM.
#3563
I know everyone feels the brakes are weak on the NT1. For kicks I bought the kyosho offroad ACRE bonded semi-metallic brake pads (used in the evo also?). They do not fit out of the box. I had to dremel them, but they do not fade. Running the stock disk. It took a while to dremel, it get's pretty close to almost not working because you take so much material off that you almost don't have a hole anymore for the screw.
The one that is dremeled down the most has to fit into the stock location, the other one the size is not as critical. The "half moon" shape had to be adjusted also but a dremel griding tool was the perfect fit.
The one that is dremeled down the most has to fit into the stock location, the other one the size is not as critical. The "half moon" shape had to be adjusted also but a dremel griding tool was the perfect fit.
#3565
i've been using the X-Ray cone that they sell for nova motors, and that works perfectly don't know about the one that comes with the motor
#3567
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
I wonder if thats the problem? If you used the 7mm how did you get the measurment from the top of the not to the top of the trank to 9.2?
Is this the one your talking about?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16943
#3568
Rui what's up man, you can add shims behind the collet to push it up. I use the novarossi collets without any issues. Your collet sounds like it's on the short side.
#3569
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
Whats up Diatta? Yeah, i figured the collet was too small. I guess i should add 1.5 or so in shims to get the flywheel to lock in place? If i do that i'll never get the 9.2-9.3 spacing from the nut to the top of the crank..Are you gonna be at 360 Sunday? If yes, maybe I can bring it with me?
#3570
Yeah I'll be there, bring it in