18LikesXray NT1
05-05-2008, 09:58 PM
#3018
Although I haven't seen it my self....... thread locker chemicals eat plastic said some people. One time a race director saw me putting thread locker liquid to wheel axle's threads, and he warned me NOT putting it too much. He said some people lost wheel rim after that. So I wipe it, and use only a little.
05-06-2008, 07:31 AM
#3019
Tech Regular
Don't feel alone. I had this happen to me once, and to fix this little issue, this is where some time will help. Like with the upright screws, take those little buggers and put some lock-tite one them and let them dry....then very carefully, put a dab of CA on the top edge of the screw head, but make sure that you don't close over the screw hole.. Make sure not to strip them out when you put them in. I had this happen to me and it ripped the bearing seal off when they backed out. Make sure to check that they don't back out for the first few times that you take the car out after doing it.
This is not the recomended way of doing it in the book, but it worked for me when I had them back out.
If you are using the spool/multi-diff, you can use a dab of lock-tite on the aluminum threads on the multi-diff before putting the screw in and then let it dry. this will hold the screw from backing out.
This is not the recomended way of doing it in the book, but it worked for me when I had them back out.
If you are using the spool/multi-diff, you can use a dab of lock-tite on the aluminum threads on the multi-diff before putting the screw in and then let it dry. this will hold the screw from backing out.
I put the screws in while the locktite was wet. I'll try the dry method next. Screws on the diff thread . . . good idea!
Anyone try larger screws? Xray wants $6.00 for 4 screws! Come on. That's really gouging it there Xray. I'm sure Mr. Hudy is more clever than that. I love the car and don't mind paying a bit extra for the parts but 4 screws/$6 . . . is it really hard to make a larger size or much cheaper screws?
05-06-2008, 07:32 PM
#3020
-Story-
I had a tight fitting OS Glowplug on a OS TZ 12. As you can see it broke my first glowplug wrench. So I figure I'd throw some Hudy steel at it. What you see in the picture was this tools first attempt at removing a glow plug. I don't think i'm that strong.
Case in point I'd recommend a good 1/4 ratch from Kobalt over this Hudy tool. I got a whole set for $25.... 5 bucks more. Just be careful to not crank the glowplugs down to much, just a few more hours of rotation after you feel a little resistance.
Last edited by jk1152; 05-06-2008 at 08:01 PM.
05-06-2008, 08:40 PM
#3022
I ran the new blocks at the Kissimmee raceway Open sedan Championships this past weekend. I used a front diff and did notice faster cornering speed and much better on-power steering as to the older blocks. I did have to make a few changes to the setup of the car by making a roll-center change. I was running 450wt shock oil in the front with the lavender springs and ended up going to 600wt and the pink springs......I gained "STEERING" overall.....
To balance these findings out, after making the changes to the car I tested a body that I had used during the Winternats that was mounted in the center position, every time I used the body, it pushed. I switched the front blocks back and with the Winternats body...a push...back to the 1deg blocks....all kinds of steering. I tried to run a body that was 1mm forward and had too much steering causing the rear of the car to be a little loose, but very drivable.....
Overall, I noticed more on-power steering and mid corner steering with the blocks. that was with, stiffening the front suspension and change the roll center to get noticable gains....
My overall thoughts on this
05-07-2008, 07:01 AM
#3023
Tech Regular
Before viewing this pic. Know that I have the X-ray NT1 and love the car. The hudy steel used in the drive train has held very well. I'm not sure if this was a fluke or what. The tool was not worth the $20 I paid for it. I love the 4 metric hex profitools that I got very nice.
If that tool is Hudy, you deserve a replacement.
05-07-2008, 07:02 AM
#3024
Tech Regular
05-07-2008, 08:15 AM
#3025
They've actually been out for a while now
05-18-2008, 10:47 PM
#3026
on power steering understeer question..
Hi guys
I have an issue with my nt1 understeering mid corner-corner exit whilst on power.
i am using stock setup including the fornt diff on a high traction track. ive tried 40s and 42s al round still the same.
any advice on what to try?
thanks!
John
I have an issue with my nt1 understeering mid corner-corner exit whilst on power.
i am using stock setup including the fornt diff on a high traction track. ive tried 40s and 42s al round still the same.
any advice on what to try?
thanks!
John
05-19-2008, 12:37 AM
#3029
also try narrowing the front track width.
body makes a huge difference also. i'm a big fan of the active potenza spr, it has a ton of exit steering!
final note john, what i noticed with the xray is the front shocks don't allow enough lift if you screw the ballends in too far on the piston. place a longer ball end or screw out the bottom ballend a bit.
this will give you more front lift, therefore more weight transfer tot he rear which means increased exit steering.
05-19-2008, 04:41 AM
#3030
