kaotickc

iTrader: (45)

That head or endbell is what comes standard on the new Sirio Evo4. It is pretty trick lookin.

Student Driver

I just ordered my NT1 from Nexus. I ordered from them becuae I have heard they have great customer service. Anyhow, I ordered the kit along with the hard bumper. I have read peopl bashing the car and praising the car. I think this normal for every car. There has yet to be a car released that is loved by everyone. So, to those who are making decisions contingent upon the opinions of others, I would encourage those prospective buyers to buy the car you like and roll with it because chances are it won't be your last. You might be piloting an Xray this year and decide to go flip mode and rock with Mugen two years later or vice versa.

For myself, this is my first nitro kit. For you nitro pros out there with the NT1, are there some tips you guys can give I can use during the build to enhance the durability without sacraficing performance? Also can someone explain what exactly the offset (positive or negative) of the wheel hexes does for the car?

And lastly, can someone explain the pros and cons of wider track width versus a narrower track width. I am hearing 198mm is the recomendation?

Dennison J

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but unfortunately the Kyosho aluminum gears do not last long at all. If you look at (what seems to be an aftermarket 18T gear) it has already started to sharpen whereas the 2nd gear (which looks like a 23T) looks alot better.

You may want to consider going over to the NT1 setup in the future. It will last much longer as the aluminum is hardened. I have put togther a nice mix that will last long and works perfectly.

NT1 Lighten Flywheel
Kyosho Clutch Bolt
Kyosho Clutch Weights (White)
NT1 Clutch Shoe Holder, Cup and Yellow Shoe
Mugen Hard Spring
Kyosho Clutch Adj Spring Nut
KM Racing Lighten Clutch Bell
NT1 Gears
Kyosho Thrust Bearing
Kyosho End Guide

This whole setup comes out lighter than the Kyosho's.

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

WOW that's a pretty cool setup.

Dennison J

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, it works beautifully. I went to the Kyosho clutch weights because the NT1 weights pivot on the flywheel pins and after a few race weekends, the holes where it pivots started to elongate and I knew sooner or later it would have come loose altogether.

The Kyosho wieghts fit perfectly and is what I have used on my old RRR's more than 2yrs old and still going strong. I seem to feel as well, that I get a more aggressive engagement with the Kyosho weights.

TeamCarnage

iTrader: (31)

I agree that it looks like a great setup!
Who is KM racing? I didn't google yet...
How does the Kyo. thrust bearing compeare to the others? How much maintanence do you do to this setup? tia, Nick A.

Dennison J

iTrader: (1)

Sure.

Here's the link to their site. http://www.km-rc.com/

Very high quality parts. You should see some other goodies I use from them as well. Check out the CF brake pads!

Anyone with a Kyo thrust bearing will let you know that maintanence is virtually nil. For example, I could go for months without even lubing them. They just last!!!

Also, now that I have switched to the Kyo clutch weights, I have no maintanence at all. Perhaps a few precocautionary drops of lube on the bearing for main events.

lim

we are using RRR gears without problems from some months, the little damage that you can see on 2nd gears has happened with xray gears, due to a little stone.
This gears made by Sirio, not Kyosho or aftermarket...if you can please try it and leave me a feedback, according to me is the best clucth that I have ever try...bye!

Dennison J

iTrader: (1)

What I was trying to point out was not the 2nd gear but the wear on the first gear. You will notice the front of the gear has already started to sharpen. (see attached)

Very soon this will start to strip your spur gear and you will need to change both the pinion and spur.

From experience, this seems to always happen when you are pushing you car hard while in a race. The original NT1 gears do not wear this quick at all. I can show you my NT1 gears that has over 2 gallons of run time through them and the gears look like new. The bronze cote is still perfect.

I have run Kyosho for over two years and can simply provide an unbiased review and thus far only the Kyosho steel gears last......ciao!

Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

Hey guys, what adjustment will help the front end of my car dive into a turn on a tight track? My track is small with a lot of turns. My car used to do it, now all of the sudden it stopped. Here is my set-up:

40 fr 42 rear
1 1/2 fr camber
1 degree tow out
the lowest roll center
450 shock oil
dark blue springs
front lock
smallest caster clip in the fr, and the two bigger ones closer to the steering servo
1mm droop

3 1/2 tow in
-3 camber
red springs
500 shock oil
50k rear diff
lowest roll center
2.0 sway bar
4mm droop

Any help would be appreciated!!!

nitro ho

iTrader: (1)

u need more weight to transfer to the front of the car 4 more grip, aka more droop.

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

could also try using lighter rear diff oil, like 10k instead of 50k...
50k rear diff oil seems abit too thick for sharp turnings. and small track.

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

And you could try changing rear sway bar to something heavier. e.g. 2.3

D-nicest

You can try lowering front shock positions a hole, Lessening rear droop, what ride height are you running? also you could also lessen the amount of caster.

aznrevlazn

where can i buy an nt1?