whats up there all of my faithful nitro buddies out there
we here at ace have been working with the guys at ofna to try and start up a new class in the near future.
while racing is what most of aspire to do we all have to start somewhere and here at ace we think the new ofna DM1 kits are a great middle of the road kit for people wanting to get into nitro onroad but n ot have to fork out $1000-$2000 dollars for a high end on road serpent or mugen or kyosho kit, while many of us like to start with sedan and gradually make our way up to 1/8th scale, we all have to admit that sedan racing can be very intimidating and nearly as expensive as 1/8th when its all said and done.
the new DM1 is a happy medium between 1/8th on and off road, the kit uses the reliable and proven jammin x1cr drivetrain but with a twist, the overall length and wheelbase of the kit make it a 1/7th scale and its setup for strictly onroad use.
for those that have a background in 1/8th offroad making the transition to onroad might have just gotten a bit easier.
taka a look at the pics and let us know what you all think, any input is welcome be it good or bad.
hope you all like and if you have any questions you can call us here at the shop, 1-800-383-2657 or email us firstname.lastname@example.org or just ask away on here.
While OFNA didn't try this with their other "big" car.....this might work as a spec class. But then the word 'spec" is like poison around the racing community. I don't know if that's what you had in mind or a beginners class. I would definitely consider a spec class for the pure enjoyment of racing cars that are just like others. Leaves alot to the drivers setup and driving. But many others disagree.....even if they never have a chance of placing on the podium. I think many have forgotten the fun factor in todays racing. BTW...where are the pics?
the pictures will be up in a few minutes, need to resize them as 293k is the largest file size that can be attached and all i have here is 500k and on up, keep checking back as there are abot 100 pictures i am going to upload
this picture shows the mugen centax clutch we retrofitted in our kit, it did involve a bit of dremelling to the bottom of the chassis but from what we were told from the guys at ofna the newere chassis will already be made to accomodate a centax style clutch.
the mugen centax is used in conjunction with a kyosho evolva clutch bell and 21tooth evolva second gear, we then had to use 12mm shims to space the gears out approprietly but in the end i think it was a great fit and a piece that will only compliment the car.
DO NOT try modifying this is you are not comfortable with your dremel skills, it will take a bit of time but the end results are a better clutch in my opinion.
the car has some really nice features, the 2 speed tranny is a shoe type and not a cam type, there are blade type swaybars used both front and rear like with true 1/8th on road cars
the steering ackerman assembly is the same as the jammin x1cr so there is an available upgraded thicker ball bearing version if needed.
the kit uses traditional 17mm hubs so you can use a variety of tires from ofna, proline, medial pro, ATS and GRP just to name a few.
the suspension front and rear are pivot ball so camber changes and toe changes are very simple.
the roll centers on the car are fully adjustable both front and rear, upper and lower arms use nylon inserts that allow the position of the pin to change depending on their placement in the holders.
the side body stiffeners have a unique muffler deflector to help getting those dirty exhaust gasses outside the body.
more pictures are to come but for now if you are looking for more high res pictures just send me a pm and ill be happy to send them to whoever, the pics on here so far are somewhat limited because most of what i have is larger files.
How will the Centax type clutch hold up the the weight of the DM-1? I would figure that a centax clutch won't last as long in a car that is twice the weight of a MRX-4 / 960 / Evola.
For the dremel work to fit the centax clutch what was required to change on the chassis, widen the flywheel hole or removing material to lower the engine and engine mounts. Also, does this mod to the centax clutch require adjustable engine mounts from the X1 CR or the stock mounts with the DM-1 kit will work?
Lastly, what are you guys doing for the brakes on the car, extra disk brake or leaving it stock.
good question and one i cant give you good answer on yet, tomorrow will be the first day of actual testing here at the shop. while the weight of the car is a bit of a concern i think a proper setup centax canwork well for you in this kit, i know really hgh rpm launches probably from the clutch will probably eat up the shoe and spit the weights rather quickly, but again something we will have to see with time
i have been in contact with jeffrie lynn of ofna and he has also retrofitted a centax in the car, according to him its been good, but ill give you a better idea come monday. we have a whole assortment of shoes here reary for trying so time will tell.
as for the brakes, the preproduction kit we drove had the fiber pads installed and this kit has the semi metallic pads bonded to the steel plates and it uses a single hyper 8 brake disk for the actual brake so it all looks pretty beefy to me.
the one concern i have had myself is the center diff mount the brake screws thread into, if you are using the brakes hard and often i am concerned with heat allowing the brake screws to back out of the mounts, again, time will tell.
the dremeling of the chassis wasnt too bad, took about 10 minutes with my digital dremel and a carbide cutting but from dremel and waaaa laaaa, i basically had to bring the hole forward about 3mm, was a bit messy with shavings all over the place but i prefer to have the centax style clutch in the kit.
the motor mounts i used are the ones from the ultra series, ofn 30480 to be exact, i could of used the stock mounts but in order to use the centax and get everything to line up correctly i admit i had to do some creative spacing
if you are going to use a non pullstart motor everything is easy to modify or retrofit into the car, if you are going to use a rotostart or a pullstart its going to be a bit more involved, we are working on a solution for that one right now but wont have all the details worked out until next week midweek.
if you are looking for more detailed pics just send me your email addy and ill be happy to send you the high res pics of how it all went together
Try out Medial Pro Tarmac IAS tires. I am sending Chris a set to try out. If you get a racing class going, you might consider these for spec tires to help keep costs down. They are rubber not foam, and they last a long time and will run fine on unprepared or at least non-vht surfaces, much like 1/5th scale cars.
The car is pretty cool, but I dont quite understand the advantage. You will still need a good 21 engine and foam tires. Tires are the most expensive to me. I think developing a good low cost tire might be more advantageous to the racing community. Im talking like 10 or 15 bucks for a whole set of 1/8th foams. Good luck