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Old 07-23-2013, 01:31 PM   #1336
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Why is that? Arent the gears in the bell and 2 speed the same specs ?
The issue is the mesh of 1st and 2nd gear. The 2 speed is in a fixed mount, so the spurs are always in the same place. The engine moves on a slot to keep the gears lined up. So you have to have the same small clearance between the two pinions and spurs. If you have too much gap with either, there is not enough surface of the spur gear to hold the pinion. So it wears out quicker.

I'll take a picture of the mesh (nothing on the chassis other than engine and 2 speed) so you can see what happens if you increase or decrease the spur and or pinion.

Using open engines will also wear the gears out faster due to the loading. This is also true with more grip in the track or softer tires. All the load between the tires and engine go through the gears.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:11 AM   #1337
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Gear mesh is very critical on these cars. I didn't have problems with them in the 3 or more years that I raced the DM1s. But the mesh I left between the spurs and the CB was on the tight side since I was running the Carbon chassis that flexes a bunch. With the King Headz chassis I didn't have any issues since it was stiffer than stock. I used 4 tooth difference and had no problems. I used to do the paper between the spurs and CB but even that was hit or miss due to the torsion of the Carbon chassis so later I did it by feel.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:59 PM   #1338
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Where you guys find 18/22 gears and bell ??

thanks,
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:16 PM   #1339
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Where you guys find 18/22 gears and bell ??

thanks,
OFNA bell and gears. I have them in my parts bag, but they are also listed on IGT hobbies.

Mark
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:02 PM   #1340
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OFNA bell and gears. I have them in my parts bag, but they are also listed on IGT hobbies.

Mark
They are the aluminum gears
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:49 AM   #1341
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They are the aluminum gears
I did not think they were, but just went and looked at them, and you are correct. I also have an aluminum 23, that came in a parts box that I purchased.

Not sure how these will work, as I have never used them.

Mark
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:09 PM   #1342
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I did not think they were, but just went and looked at them, and you are correct. I also have an aluminum 23, that came in a parts box that I purchased.

Not sure how these will work, as I have never used them.

Mark


Any codes ? ... the bigger bells and gears i got from OFNA were 17/21 ... no 18/22 option so please help me with clutchbell and pinion gears,

thanks
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:11 PM   #1343
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Any codes ? ... the bigger bells and gears i got from OFNA were 17/21 ... no 18/22 option so please help me with clutchbell and pinion gears,

thanks
I'll PM you the numbers after I make sure they fit the standard clutch bell.

Mark
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #1344
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If they are aluminum then they must be made for one of the sedans that OFNA had a few years back. Maybe CD3 or something like that. Didn't try anything like that but maybe they fit.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:11 AM   #1345
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My left front hex is not coming off.. When I turn it with the wrench, it just turns. I held some pliers inside the hub in that little gap at the (wheel) end of the shaft, and was able to get it off. The pin is okay. What's causing this?

Also, what is the best way to access the front diff? Thanks.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:11 AM   #1346
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My left front hex is not coming off.. When I turn it with the wrench, it just turns. I held some pliers inside the hub in that little gap at the (wheel) end of the shaft, and was able to get it off. The pin is okay. What's causing this?

Also, what is the best way to access the front diff? Thanks.


ps The hex on the rim looked okay, but I guess it could be that?.. Too soft, the hub is spinning inside the rim?...
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Last edited by Herrsavage; 08-04-2013 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:54 AM   #1347
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My left front hex is not coming off.. When I turn it with the wrench, it just turns. I held some pliers inside the hub in that little gap at the (wheel) end of the shaft, and was able to get it off. The pin is okay. What's causing this?

Also, what is the best way to access the front diff? Thanks.


ps The hex on the rim looked okay, but I guess it could be that?.. Too soft, the hub is spinning inside the rim?...
1st the left front tire = I assume that the nut holding the wheel was turning when you used the 17mm wheel wrench. Is this correct? And as you said the pin that goes into the outdrive is ok, then you are missing the pin that holds the hex onto the axle. With the wheel off, you should see a pin that runs through the nut the would be inside the wheel. It is polished steel, so it should show up, and if gone you would have a hole. You will need to get a new pin, or you could make one to get by. Find some stainles steel wire that is the correct diam. and cut it just smaller than the width of the hex. You will need to put a allen wrench in the center of axle, as there is an allen screw inside that holds the pin in place. Back out the allen screw and slide the wire in, once flush with both sides tighten down.

I purchased my kit as a RTR and had to have another racer point out the allen screew, as the instructions are not really clear.

If you need, pm me and I can take a photo of how the pin is set.

Mark
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:05 AM   #1348
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dp
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:07 AM   #1349
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A pic would be great, thanks.. The car seems to work fine was is - but you can't get the wheel off (or all the way tightened) without wedging something into the axle end... The grub screw is in the end of the axle, and all the way tightened. The regular pin in the hub is there too.. I assume though you are talking about something else..
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:18 PM   #1350
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Let's talk diffs for a minute....What is everyone running in their diffs? Anybody tried locking up their front diff like a spool in a touring car? How about a one way?
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