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Old 05-14-2013, 04:27 PM   #1216
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Has anybody tried pressing the pins out of the dogbones on the cvd's?
I've changed most of mine more than once using the X-ray pin tool. Just need the correct length, which can be an issue at times.
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:17 PM   #1217
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Has anybody tried pressing the pins out of the dogbones on the cvd's?
lookup amain hobbies .#HUD106000 and #MUGB0541.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:07 PM   #1218
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Could someone help me out? I need to know what is the full length of the stock front pushrods for the front suspention. I bought a dm-1 pro the other day but the previous owner had replaced the stock ones with the red traxxas ones and I believe they might be to short. In the manual it only says how much thread should be exposed but that's for the stock set up. Can anyone tell me how many MM long the pushrods are as a whole? Thanks for any and all help.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:03 PM   #1219
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DM-1 parts are up on the web site:

www.darksidems.com
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:07 PM   #1220
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Recieved my DM1 yesterday, so expect pistons and braces within the next few weeks!
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:23 PM   #1221
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Recieved my DM1 yesterday, so expect pistons and braces within the next few weeks!
Marcus, I'll be back to Lincoln the week before the Byons race, so a good time to test and compare.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:10 PM   #1222
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I've changed most of mine more than once using the X-ray pin tool. Just need the correct length, which can be an issue at times.
Can you confirm if the mugen 3mm replacement pins fit
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:01 AM   #1223
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Just picked up a DM-1! Going to throw my hat in the ring this summer too!
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:12 AM   #1224
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I haven't raced nitro in about 5 years, what is everyone running for receiver packs in these things?
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:48 AM   #1225
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Can you confirm if the mugen 3mm replacement pins fit
Yep. 3 x 13.8 work great
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:50 AM   #1226
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I haven't raced nitro in about 5 years, what is everyone running for receiver packs in these things?
5 cell humps or lipos with high voltage servos
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:53 AM   #1227
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5 cell humps or lipos with high voltage servos
I am looking at LiFe packs so I can keep the weight down and not have to use a regulator......good call?
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:55 AM   #1228
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I am looking at LiFe packs so I can keep the weight down and not have to use a regulator......good call?
Yep
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:01 AM   #1229
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Yep
Sweet, thanks Ryan!
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:36 AM   #1230
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I was able to do some testing yesterday and this morning with a local DM1! timer was not on but it was obvious that the car was better!
the pistons are 2 stage with compression holes being 2x1.6mm and rebound 2x1.8mm and 1000 wt oil, 1200 may be better but didnt have time to change them out again, most noticeable trait was transitioning between turns (chicanes) it was quicker and felt stable, exit grip was improved also.
For those that do not know about the RCshox 2 stage pistons, in a nutshell you can adjust your compression and rebound percentages via shock oil and hole sizes (the pistons have been tested on MIP's shock dyno!). I send them out with about a 2-3% different ratio with rebound being quicker. What this translates to is improved corner speed, better handling over bumpy sections and an overall planted machine!
Hard to tell with this pic but the pistons are two pieces.

LRP arm braces are also complete, since the GT cars in general are based off of off road kits the arms are extremely soft to avoid breakage while off road, well we do not have to worry about that and soft arms sag and are not consistent. The car i used for measuring not only had warped arms but they were not equal which wreaks havoc on setup and tweak.

Installation is simple but requires a 3/32 drill bit, hardware will be included. not seen on these pics is a counterbore pocket on the front set that clears the shock ends. On the rear you actually use one of the shock postion holes to mount the brace!


I have no idea how big or small the DM market is so these items will be on pre-order at RCShox.com until the end of the week with a discount for those that do pre-order. This gives me enough time to get materials in house and begin production.

A few questions for you tuners. IMO using shorter shocks in the rear and standing them up more is a more logical setup, or even with the stock shocks. I dont particularly like the shock mount positions in the rear because if you change the location you have to adjust collar to get the ride height back to where it was??
Has anyone played with front cantilever ratios? you can get the same effects as shock positioning on a standard tower setup by playing with the ratios.
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