DRRC

iTrader: (59)

very true
does anyone know how to remove the innermost bearing that is stuck in the clutch bell?

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Turn on toast oven, 350*, clutch bell in....5-10 minutes later, take it out, pop that bearing out....

I do that to pull out old engine bearing from the engine block....

DRRC

iTrader: (59)

What I mean is the outer case of a broken bearing is stuck in there ( that's what she said lol)
Will this also work

Herrsavage

Oven did nothing for me when I tried it..

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

really heat it up and tap it on wood block might have to more than one tap use pliers or a good welding glove

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

I've been in your spot. Stainless steel outer ring just does not move but I found a tap that was just under the OD of the bearing, started taping it into the sleeve Until it was hard to twist. Don't go to far or you might break the tap.

I then heated it up and put it in top of a vise with the large end up and you should see the point of the tap looking into the clutch bell. Use a center punch on the tip of the tap and you should be able to drive it out.

I would get all your stuff set up so when you heat it up, it does not cool much before you drive it out. Also some WD-40 sprayed down the bearing center will help it keep moving once it starts.

DK McGee

iTrader: (36)

very carefully drive it out with a micro flat head screw driver ,Thru the back side, tap side to side it will come out ! then buy you some back up CB so when this happens at the track you dont have to do this at the track.

abi787

iTrader: (22)

I agree, the micro screw driver and the wd40 works best. but I have been using on my CB bearings synthetic Mobil One Oil that s*** works wonders.I dip them in oil after every race and I go four weeks without changing them.and I only use one front bearing ceramic front and rear.

Herrsavage

€30 a pop and a month wait.. That's why I asked - is there really no alternative? I bought the Kyosho bell somebody recoommended, and it was no solution.. LST CB's are cheap and easily available.. They just don't have those pinion sizes...

abi787

iTrader: (22)

hi Grenade 10, got my parts on friday, thank you for shipping them so fast.I'm going use the CF parts on my DM1.later on I will try them on the 1/7 scale. I have 1 question,went I built the shocks , what length should they be.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Glad you got the items.

Let me measure mine and I'll post a picture as well here on RCtech. Should be able to do this early this week. As I have to re-build my stuff for the Novrossi race in Porter Texas. Have something I want to try for that track ......

Mark

DRRC

iTrader: (59)

Anyone have a set up for a dm1 spec with modified front shocks
It is still a good car
I just need a good set up to race with
Thanks

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

The set up that is posted here is good for the stand up shocks.

Is that what you are running.

I agree, the car is still good, just needs some adjustments.

surferjoe

iTrader: (3)

@ Mark where can I find some aluminum upper/lower pin holders? I can't find them anywhere. Thanks

DRRC

iTrader: (59)

Can you post the link pls
I cant find it for the stand up shocks?
What stabilizers do you use, the stock blade or the piano wire type? Finding it difficult to adjust the blade type
Anyone selling their DM 1 spec I'm looking for one
Thanks