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Old 10-01-2011, 12:33 PM   #1021
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good job! LOL
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:25 AM   #1022
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Sssooo.. Next question: just got some Ofna yellow foams for the stock DM-1 wheels/tires.. They fit a lot better than the stock joke foamy things in the kit.. Are they too soft for the DM-1 though?..
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:05 PM   #1023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Sssooo.. Next question: just got some Ofna yellow foams for the stock DM-1 wheels/tires.. They fit a lot better than the stock joke foamy things in the kit.. Are they too soft for the DM-1 though?..
Nahhh I use them as well but I like Aka foams too
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:53 PM   #1024
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No one interested?

Full race DM1 Spec with all the goodies!

Pm me with any questions.
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Old 11-10-2011, 10:37 AM   #1025
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fast pete - looks like a nice car.

Question to all:

There are arm adjusters that go inside the Arm holders for the rear lower & uppers as well as the front lower and up uppers.

Could someone provide examples of what they are running? And/or a brief description of why they have them in the positions they are?

The manual says to use the TypeA for the lowers front & rear and shows to put the upper arms on the inside lower holes in the triangular insert adjusters?

Also, if you experiment with changing the lowers to TypeB which puts the pins higher/chassis lower is it recommended to change the uppers too?

This might have been covered somewhere in the last 50 pages but I couldn't find it in my brief search.

Thanks,
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Old 11-10-2011, 10:41 AM   #1026
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Carbon Chassis?

Can someone who has ran the stock chassis provide a description of the benefits of using the carbon chassis after changing from the stock chassis? I know it is lighter, but what changes in set up did you have to make to get the same results from the heavier chassis.

I currently like my set up with the stock chassis, but have heard mix opinions at the track as far as making the car that much lighter and having it handle the same?

In other words is it worth it to get the carbon chassis and am I able to get that much better performance potential when doing so?
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:55 AM   #1027
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Does anybody run 14-18 CB gearing?

I want to try 15-19, and was wondering if ordering some 14-18 pinions would be worth it.. Assuming of course I can find a shop that 1.) has all four pinions, and 2.) doesn't charge a stupidly high shipping amount.. Looking at nitrohouse right now, but I think they charge $30 shipping which is just stupid for a couple little pinion gears...
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:58 PM   #1028
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So I'm still wondering what to do with this stupid Kyosho bell with Evolva gears. Still waiting for more shims to show up first of all, cuz one pack wasn't enough. But I notice the inner bearing isn't even normal size.. I guess I need a 12x5x3.. WTF? The only one I can find here is some 3-part bearing thing with two halves and a ball-plate or something in the middle... What bearing did people used to run in this old Kyosho GT bell?
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:14 AM   #1029
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The old GT1 rtr used a cage style needle bearing set-up.
IMO they were just junk. There really wasn't any way to
shim the end play properly and fell apart all the time.
Here is a link to the bearing set-up.
http://www.igthobbies.com/KYOSHO-KYO...D70_p_222.html
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:45 AM   #1030
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OK, thanks..

I'm not going to be ordering that..

Would something like this work?:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Axial-Druckla...item4ceaa64cc8


If not, god that was horrible advice recommending that stupid clutch bell.. €50 down the drain..

I see though that from the US I can order some normal looking 5x12x4 bearings.. Technically I would need 5x12x3, but that extra 1mm in thickness shouldn't matter too much, should it?

Great... Something else I have to order from the States for this car..
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:21 PM   #1031
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Herrsavage,

Run the 5x12x4 bearing on the back and the 5x10x4 on the front of that Kyosho bell. You can get really good ones from AVID RC for $1.00 each. Here are the links.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html

I run that bell in my Kyosho IGT1 with the Ofna DM-1 2-speed so I know it will work. And yes you are correct, it will take more than 1 pack of the shims to get the right spacing on the pinions. You can also put a shim under the flywheel collet if you need to move the whole assembly a bit more forward.

Regards,

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Old 11-18-2011, 02:24 PM   #1032
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Thanks.. Can't find those size shims in Germany unfortunately.. Will have to order from England or the US..

BTW, do I need identically shaped shims? I.e. do you need to have a shim behind the bearing?..
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-LST2 #1 with Losi 454 & LST2 #2 with Dynamite Big Red .28
-Ofna DM-1 with silver Mach 427/2047
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:41 PM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Thanks.. Can't find those size shims in Germany unfortunately.. Will have to order from England or the US..

BTW, do I need identically shaped shims? I.e. do you need to have a shim behind the bearing?..

Just depends on the type of clutch setup you are running and whether the bell has clearence on everything. I run the Werks Racing Pro clutch and I do run a couple shims under the bottom bearing to avoid drag between the bell and top of the clutch assembly. I also run shims between the top bearing and end collar to take up any play in the setup. As far as the same size shims, I just make sure they are the right shims for the shaft (inside diameter) as I do use some that are different size on the outside diameter.
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:57 PM   #1034
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Yeah.. Sorry, boneheaded question.. Trying to search and figure all this out simultaneously in two languages sometimes makes me miss the forest for the trees - or whatever the expression is.. Anyway, thanks..
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:12 PM   #1035
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Anyone have a set up for parking lot racing
what tires are good
What is the difference bet a and b arm blocks for prosquat
It is a very nice car very stable and the motor is good enough
Good engineering too
Thanks
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