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Old 06-01-2011, 09:48 AM   #916
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
So, got the 2-speed out, and sure enough, the two set screws inside the 2-speed clutch shoes were not all the way tight.. Do I really need to threadlock them? Doesn't say to in the instructions.. And, getting the screws all the way out requires disassembling the 2-speed I think.. Whereas just to tighten it down I can do with the 2-speed still in one piece(or even could have done it still in the car...)

Thanks for the tip btw!!

Again, I bought these two DM-1 1/7 scale "Sport" kits off ebay for dirt cheap. I think they had been sitting in some Czech hobby shop for at least three years...


EDIT - F' it.. Took the whole thing apart and threadlocked everything, new bearings, etc.. All the set-screws were loose... Only thing that concerns me is that the shift-point setting screws, at five turns out as per the manual, are noticeably further in than the screws were before. The shift point was OK before. I hope it isn't too thrown off now..
threadlock i never use threadlock on the 2speed but5 turns is a starting point.... i do 6-6 1/2 turns depending on track on my Dm-1 spec ...one question, how you got the middle screws that set the gap on the 2 speed shoes?
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:04 AM   #917
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Too tight I think.. Everything all back together, and something's binding or too tight.. Hope I can adjust it with the 2-speed still in the car..

EDIT - OK, just went in and screwed each out a good 1 1/2 turns.. Seems to turn better now. When I roll the car back and forth on the ground though, it still sounds a little bind-y when rolling backwards.. Seems the more I unscrew the center grub screws in the 2-speed, the less it binds in that way... Loosen it some more?
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:36 AM   #918
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
So, got the 2-speed out, and sure enough, the two set screws inside the 2-speed clutch shoes were not all the way tight.. Do I really need to threadlock them? Doesn't say to in the instructions.. And, getting the screws all the way out requires disassembling the 2-speed I think.. Whereas just to tighten it down I can do with the 2-speed still in one piece(or even could have done it still in the car...)
So, I am not sure what effect that will have, hopefully it will help things. The part that I am talking about is the setscrew that holds the 2-speed clutch shoe carrier (aluminum part that the 2-speed clutches screw around) to the 2 speed shaft. You may have got that when you took it appart, not sure. You for sure have to disassemble the tranny to get to it. For me it was spinning on the shaft, so it would never shift. Good luck tracking these things down.

EDIT - I was trying to figure out how to put in the picture, but no joy. It is step 17 of the DM-1 Spec manual.
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:54 AM   #919
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Hey, thanks dude.. I know exactly what you meant - and I think that was the main culprit.. Kind of annoying how there are two sets of part numbers for DM-1's - but your description was perfect. It was loose too, not threadlocked.. So I got it in there tight and with TL on it now..

I turned the adjustment screws one turn out each - so I'm at six now.. Will see how that works..

Only think I'm lost on is the two 2.5mm set screws with balls in the 2-speed.. How tight is right, and how tight is too tight?..
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:57 AM   #920
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Too tight I think.. Everything all back together, and something's binding or too tight.. Hope I can adjust it with the 2-speed still in the car..

EDIT - OK, just went in and screwed each out a good 1 1/2 turns.. Seems to turn better now. When I roll the car back and forth on the ground though, it still sounds a little bind-y when rolling backwards.. Seems the more I unscrew the center grub screws in the 2-speed, the less it binds in that way... Loosen it some more?
ok the middle screws is one part of the tranny ajustment you do that first ..you tighten them where the gear wont move,then unscrew them half turn on both screw till gear move freely..ok then the screw that adjust the shifts(ones on the side)do 5 turns out or try 6turns that should get it
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:15 AM   #921
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when i forget how to do something or refresh i go to Mike Salven ...i know this a belt car he working but his tips on how to setup and what to check work for majority of onroad hope this ...the tranny setup is in part 1 time 8:29 hope these help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjecR...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjog...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJdTt...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJdTt...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILFfD...eature=related
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:33 PM   #922
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Herr, make sure that you adjust the air gap set screws on the
2-speed clutch shoes correctly (the screws that are in the center
of the shoes). Here is a pdf. for the Ofna (shoe type) 2-speed
clutch set-up. The center shaft is different on the 2-speed in the
pdf., but the shoe adjustment description is the same.
http://www.ofna.com/pdf/8-Shoe-2speed.pdf
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Old 06-01-2011, 01:56 PM   #923
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Originally Posted by rageworks View Post
Herr, make sure that you adjust the air gap set screws on the
2-speed clutch shoes correctly (the screws that are in the center
of the shoes). Here is a pdf. for the Ofna (shoe type) 2-speed
clutch set-up. The center shaft is different on the 2-speed in the
pdf., but the shoe adjustment description is the same.
http://www.ofna.com/pdf/8-Shoe-2speed.pdf
i was reading the instruction you post up compare to my manual and everything the same but the dust cap part 35243 not in mine ..did it come with all of your kits and did you still have bearings problem with the dustcap?
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:40 PM   #924
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Thanks rage for the pdf.. Better info than on my instructions..

I just screweed the big grub screws all the way in from the bottom, and backed out one turn.. Hope to try it this weekend, then we'll see..

At least I'm learning how to rebuild 2-speeds in all this...
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:54 AM   #925
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So, after rebuilding and threadlocking the tranny, was just out to test it.. Ran 2 1/2 tanks through - was perfect..

Couple other observations though:

1.) When still and at full steering lock, when I give gas, something binds..
2.) The Go was going great again today, but I already think I need another step up. I want maximum RPM's - in an engine that can still be run in a buggy.. I don't race, so am just more of an RC gear-head - and yeah, I like RPM's.. Got a new Argus coming, which might rev a bit more than the Go, but still not enough methinks.. Alpha A872? Or Werks B6?

Was also neat to notice today how much better the grip was - was about 85F compared to 60-ish the last several times out..

Thanks for the help guys - especially the guy with the tip about threadlocking the inside grub screw to the shaft in the 2-speed.. Pretty sure that was my problem..
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:34 AM   #926
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I'm going through my DM1 after the 1 hour race at the Fireball run in Lincoln. I'm very happy with how the car ran especially after putting bearings in the steering linkage and the 3 small bearings in the clutch bell. However I noticed there is a groove in the bell from the clutch shoe springs. Anyone else had this happen? How should it be fixed? Keep from happening again.

This is on the stock clutch parts.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:53 AM   #927
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I'm going through my DM1 after the 1 hour race at the Fireball run in Lincoln. I'm very happy with how the car ran especially after putting bearings in the steering linkage and the 3 small bearings in the clutch bell. However I noticed there is a groove in the bell from the clutch shoe springs. Anyone else had this happen? How should it be fixed? Keep from happening again.

This is on the stock clutch parts.

That groove for sure is because the shoes are wear out ... try using aluminum shoes and always check for their life status.

Take a dremel with a sander barrel and lower the grooves inside the bell ... if they are too big, you will have to buy a new bell.

hope this help,
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:33 AM   #928
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That groove for sure is because the shoes are wear out ... try using aluminum shoes and always check for their life status.

Take a dremel with a sander barrel and lower the grooves inside the bell ... if they are too big, you will have to buy a new bell.

hope this help,
Thanks for the info ....... remember why I like Centax Clutches ......
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:43 AM   #929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I'm going through my DM1 after the 1 hour race at the Fireball run in Lincoln. I'm very happy with how the car ran especially after putting bearings in the steering linkage and the 3 small bearings in the clutch bell. However I noticed there is a groove in the bell from the clutch shoe springs. Anyone else had this happen? How should it be fixed? Keep from happening again.

This is on the stock clutch parts.
Also,
Make sure your front bearing is in good condition... My blew up this weekend and It put a grove in the bell.... it is older.. change it with good quality bearing of your choice... I got a Xray bearing...
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:01 AM   #930
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Also,
Make sure your front bearing is in good condition... My blew up this weekend and It put a grove in the bell.... it is older.. change it with good quality bearing of your choice... I got a Xray bearing...
+++++1 New bearings in the clutch bell are always a good thing. These were new before the race.
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