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Old 05-15-2011, 04:47 PM   #901
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So, the DM-1 continues its downward spiral in my estimation..

Wanted to try a different engine, so planned on trying my Go GXR 5-port. The engine has an Associated RC8/RC8T alu clutch. For whatever reason, 3 5x8 bearings would NOT fit. So, I spent two hours trying to find the perfect shimming balance with two bearings up front, and finally got to where I thought it was good. Good mesh too..

So, just took her out, and the engine was going really well - faster than the Mach(alu clutch has a lot to do with it too I'm sure..) Anyway, was all good. Then boom, no shift, I look at the 2-speed, sure enough, 2nd gear spur gear is toasted... 'Bout half-way through the second tank. WTF?!..

Anyway, second time this has happened - though the first time the CB bearings were toast*.. And yes, I know how to shim, and I know how to set a mesh. When I took the Mach out this morning, I saw that pretty much all the bearings in the CB - the normal-size one, and the three up-front, were toast.. They had a grand total of six tanks on them.

Anyway, I DO have the 2nd-gear SG on hand. Is that all that's likely to be toasted. I took the 2-speed out, and saw that the 1st speed will turn with the cups - the 2nd doesn't.. So do I just need to change the gear, or is there something else in there likely to be fxxxed?

What a PIA...

* ps The engine is still in the car, and the CB is spinning freely - feels and sounds great...
Me too three years all racing NEVER stripped a spur, or had any issues....Stock CB with three bearings in front NEVER a issue..Have had LRP,Big RED, Force, Mach, and Piccos in my car same CB and spurs.
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:55 PM   #902
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Was just in repairing the 2-speed, opened the SG I'd bought after last time, and saw the spare SG I had was the 48T 1st gear, not the 44T 1st gear... Panic..(Have to realize, every spare part requires ordering from another continent...) Then I checked the 1st 2-speed I'd fried, and thank god that time it was the 1st gear that had gone.. So I just took the intact 44T off that.. At least pulling and repairing the 2-speed is easy...

So I guess this is going to be like with the old Savages - always have spur-gears on hand.. So, need to make my fifth order from the States for parts.. Will order a couple spur-gears I guess.. Unfortunatley all the shops want like 30 bucks for shipping, even for some dumb little SG or pinion..

I think this time it may have been a linkage problem.. It checked out find on the table, but may have had some weird binding issue when running.. The first time I fried the 2-speed it was definitely the clutch.. This time the clutch is fine. Got to be the linkage..

Anyway, one other thing has me kind of wondering.. On steering I have a Tower CS-170 - which is supposedly identical to a Hitec 5955.. I have a Hitec 5955 in my SC8, and that servo is much faster than the one in the DM-1... Why would that be?
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:37 PM   #903
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right now im running hitech in my Dm-1 but when i put Savox servos in my 966 so much better so savox going into the dm-1
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:51 AM   #904
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First off, big thanks to Winners Circle for getting my shipment here to Germany so quickly..

Now that I have this Kyosho clutch-bell (with Evolva pinions) though for the DM-1, it looks really thin.. Will it cover enough of the clutch shoes? I would be running this preferablY with an Ascendancy/Werks Pro clutch..
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:45 PM   #905
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Lee from Winners Circle is a great guy
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:55 PM   #906
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Lee knows gt well, fast with his car too!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:12 AM   #907
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Hey guys what a is a good motor for this car? Wheels? Running Twisters in this video.

http://youtu.be/I6nYLrQ0ebc
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Old 05-28-2011, 07:48 AM   #908
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Sssooo.. Switched the SG after last time, and just went out to test. Got the Go 5-port warmed up, and it was rrrrriiipppiiinnnn... 2063 pipe does the trick.. Really fast*. Then, clunk..

Front drive-cup popped off.. WTF?..

OK, no free tables, fix it in my lap on a park bench...

Start it up afte 45 minutes or so(did a tank in my trusty LST2, which just keeps going.. God if only all RC's were that reliable...) Going good, even faster this time.. Then, at the end of the straight, the engine surged up in the revs.. Few more passes, no more shift. Bring it in, check the gears. At least no fried gears. Try a few more times, no shift.

So that's where we are. Brought it home - max 1 1/4 tanks.

If it's not shifting, and the gears themselves are OK, what is likely to be the culprit?

ps I think the cause of the fried gear last time was a jerky linkage. This time I paid extra attention to having it set up right, and it was.


* It's pretty hard to find consensus in the forums about which engine size is ideal for the DM-1. I think I'm now sold on a 21. This engine rips. Will drift the thing like a 28.. And with the 2063 it's got a nice shrieking top-end..
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Last edited by Herrsavage; 05-28-2011 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 05-28-2011, 09:48 AM   #909
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Either your not making enough rpms for the car to shift or if your engine revved up high and you lost power it could be the flywheel came loose.

Check the two speed shoes again, you might of over tightened it after you built it.

Rule of thumb* you should be able to pull the shoes apart with little force in your hand about 1mm.
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Old 05-28-2011, 09:49 AM   #910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Sssooo.. Switched the SG after last time, and just went out to test. Got the Go 5-port warmed up, and it was rrrrriiipppiiinnnn... 2063 pipe does the trick.. Really fast*. Then, clunk..

Front drive-cup popped off.. WTF?..

OK, no free tables, fix it in my lap on a park bench...

Start it up afte 45 minutes or so(did a tank in my trusty LST2, which just keeps going.. God if only all RC's were that reliable...) Going good, even faster this time.. Then, at the end of the straight, the engine surged up in the revs.. Few more passes, no more shift. Bring it in, check the gears. At least no fried gears. Try a few more times, no shift.

So that's where we are. Brought it home - max 1 1/4 tanks.

If it's not shifting, and the gears themselves are OK, what is likely to be the culprit?

ps I think the cause of the fried gear last time was a jerky linkage. This time I paid extra attention to having it set up right, and it was.


* It's pretty hard to find consensus in the forums about which engine size is ideal for the DM-1. I think I'm now sold on a 21. This engine rips. Will drift the thing like a 28.. And with the 2063 it's got a nice shrieking top-end..

i been telling you to fun the GO .21 all along smh ....i run a GO GX7R w/2063 in my DM-1
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Old 05-28-2011, 09:58 AM   #911
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Use thread locker on all set screws in the drive train components. I agree with the other resonses, check the flywheel etc. before you look at the transmission settings.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:01 AM   #912
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Don't think I overtightened anything.. I'll try to take it apart 2moro and see what happened.. I've never touched the adjustment screws. All I did when it was apart was replace the 2nd-speed gear.

Yeah, the 2063 pipe I like a lot. Never hear of anybody running it in the States. Here it was the matching pipe for the LRP 21X and Nosram 21RR - i.e. Picco P7 Evo 2/3.. Most wicked engine pipe/combo I've seen for all-out power and screaming top-end in a 21.. Works great with the Go too...

Just won my new engine in an ebay auction for a great price - Argus!!
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:43 PM   #913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Don't think I overtightened anything.. I'll try to take it apart 2moro and see what happened.. I've never touched the adjustment screws. All I did when it was apart was replace the 2nd-speed gear.

Yeah, the 2063 pipe I like a lot. Never hear of anybody running it in the States. Here it was the matching pipe for the LRP 21X and Nosram 21RR - i.e. Picco P7 Evo 2/3.. Most wicked engine pipe/combo I've seen for all-out power and screaming top-end in a 21.. Works great with the Go too...

Just won my new engine in an ebay auction for a great price - Argus!!
i was running my car today and i made a mistake when i looked at the pipe..mine is GO 2072 pipe..but it haul ass against my friend Dm-1 spec w/Force .28..so he yank it off and we tried his Go 5port out his buggy he was happy just missing a tab bit on the top end
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:44 AM   #914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage View Post
Sssooo.. Switched the SG after last time, and just went out to test. Got the Go 5-port warmed up, and it was rrrrriiipppiiinnnn... 2063 pipe does the trick.. Really fast*. Then, clunk..

Front drive-cup popped off.. WTF?..

OK, no free tables, fix it in my lap on a park bench...

Start it up afte 45 minutes or so(did a tank in my trusty LST2, which just keeps going.. God if only all RC's were that reliable...) Going good, even faster this time.. Then, at the end of the straight, the engine surged up in the revs.. Few more passes, no more shift. Bring it in, check the gears. At least no fried gears. Try a few more times, no shift.

So that's where we are. Brought it home - max 1 1/4 tanks.

If it's not shifting, and the gears themselves are OK, what is likely to be the culprit?

ps I think the cause of the fried gear last time was a jerky linkage. This time I paid extra attention to having it set up right, and it was.


* It's pretty hard to find consensus in the forums about which engine size is ideal for the DM-1. I think I'm now sold on a 21. This engine rips. Will drift the thing like a 28.. And with the 2063 it's got a nice shrieking top-end..

So, one that got me and took me a while to figure out was the set screw that held the clutch shoe carrier (35235) onto the 2-speed shaft (40112) came loose, so it wouldn't shift into 2nd gear. Didn't need to replace anything, just tighten down with some threadlock. It seemed similar to what you described, not bad gears, clutch set right, just no 2nd gear. Something to look at.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:26 AM   #915
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So, got the 2-speed out, and sure enough, the two set screws inside the 2-speed clutch shoes were not all the way tight.. Do I really need to threadlock them? Doesn't say to in the instructions.. And, getting the screws all the way out requires disassembling the 2-speed I think.. Whereas just to tighten it down I can do with the 2-speed still in one piece(or even could have done it still in the car...)

Thanks for the tip btw!!

Again, I bought these two DM-1 1/7 scale "Sport" kits off ebay for dirt cheap. I think they had been sitting in some Czech hobby shop for at least three years...


EDIT - F' it.. Took the whole thing apart and threadlocked everything, new bearings, etc.. All the set-screws were loose... Only thing that concerns me is that the shift-point setting screws, at five turns out as per the manual, are noticeably further in than the screws were before. The shift point was OK before. I hope it isn't too thrown off now..
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-LST2 #1 with Losi 454 & LST2 #2 with Dynamite Big Red .28
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Last edited by Herrsavage; 06-01-2011 at 05:32 AM.
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