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Old 09-29-2009, 08:07 AM   #451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageworks View Post
Hey GT Speed Freak, don't you mean two of the
front shock towers? They are made to work with
the shorter shocks that come on the front and
rear of the 1/7 DM-1 Pro, aren't they?
You are correct my bad. It is two of the MVR Front shock towers that will convert the lay down shock config of the 1/7 to a vertical config.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:23 AM   #452
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So I would need two front shock towers, and one new set of front shocks to convert, with the new shocks going on the rear?
What about springs, shock oil?
Right now my DM1 is REALLY hooking up good, other than I have too much body roll in the corners.
I am using foam tires for the most part, and I dont see how the conversion would help too much more, but I am willing to try it.
thanks
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:48 AM   #453
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I went through the full OFNA parts for converting to front and rear vertical shocks.

Guys, its amazing how good the car goes into the track now, was good already but this seems to give you the chance to be more aggressive with the car and setups and still have a very well planted car.

some pics :













cya !

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Old 09-29-2009, 04:35 PM   #454
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Will the conversion help with the body roll that the DM1 cars have with the stock shock towers?
Right now my car has great traction front and rear, but I want to try and eliminate some of the body roll, and then I think the car will be great.
That is really the only complaint that I have is the body roll, and the stock clutch. I have heard some of the guys have tried the centax clutch but the car burns them up so quickly due to the weight.
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:11 PM   #455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brc358 View Post
Will the conversion help with the body roll that the DM1 cars have with the stock shock towers?
Right now my car has great traction front and rear, but I want to try and eliminate some of the body roll, and then I think the car will be great.
That is really the only complaint that I have is the body roll, and the stock clutch. I have heard some of the guys have tried the centax clutch but the car burns them up so quickly due to the weight.


On the clucth side, use a normal aluminum offroad 3 shoe and thats it ... im using the 3 shoe system from VP PRO (www.vp-pro-usa.com)

cya !

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Old 09-29-2009, 06:17 PM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
On the clucth side, use a normal aluminum offroad 3 shoe and thats it ... im using the 3 shoe system from VP PRO (www.vp-pro-usa.com)

cya !

Pato Concha
Southamerica
On the clutch I got a tip from the Ofna drivers here locally. I use two normal shoes, and one aluminum shoe with silver springs. The clutch works OK but wish the centax clutch would work. The Ofna drivers that I know have tried the centax clutch and said the car was just too heavy for it, so they switched backed to the type I am running now.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:46 AM   #457
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In the pic's. Isn't the shocks and shock towers from the rear of the Dm1 spec?
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:41 AM   #458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Cola View Post
In the pic's. Isn't the shocks and shock towers from the rear of the Dm1 spec?


Yes Bubba, 2 x rear DM SPEC shock towers

cya !

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Old 09-30-2009, 07:19 AM   #459
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[QUOTE=Bubba Cola;6410284]In the pic's. Isn't the shocks and shock towers from the rear of the Dm1 spec?[/QUOTE

Most Economic way to have Vertical Shock Towers

DM1 Spec 1/8 Scale you can use the stock shocks with one MVR front shock tower (http://maxvelocityracing.com/Servo.aspx). The rear shocks are already vertical.

DM1 1/7 Scale you can use two front shock towers for the front and rear because the shocks for the front and rear are the same size as the front shocks of the 1/8 scale.

The main point is you wont have to buy shock towers and new shocks. 2 New shock sets = $120 plus new shock towers = $30 so you are looking at $150 to do a complete refit vs. spending $25 for the 1/8 scale and $50 for the 1/7 scale not to mention they are made out of carbon fiber.

Also there is no issue with interferance with the body

Shock Towers for both the 1/8 and 1/7 are at www.maxvelocityracing.com
Attached Thumbnails
new ofna DM1 pics and thoughts :):)-dsc_0196.jpg  
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:28 AM   #460
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[QUOTE=GT Speed Freak;6410577]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Cola View Post
In the pic's. Isn't the shocks and shock towers from the rear of the Dm1 spec?[/QUOTE

Most Economic way to have Vertical Shock Towers

DM1 Spec 1/8 Scale you can use the stock shocks with one MVR front shock tower (http://maxvelocityracing.com/Servo.aspx). The rear shocks are already vertical.

DM1 1/7 Scale you can use two front shock towers for the front and rear because the shocks for the front and rear are the same size as the front shocks of the 1/8 scale.

The main point is you wont have to buy shock towers and new shocks. 2 New shock sets = $120 plus new shock towers = $30 so you are looking at $150 to do a complete refit vs. spending $25 for the 1/8 scale and $50 for the 1/7 scale not to mention they are made out of carbon fiber.

Also there is no issue with interferance with the body

Shock Towers for both the 1/8 and 1/7 are at www.maxvelocityracing.com
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:30 AM   #461
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[QUOTE=brc358;6410606]So I only need <1> shock tower for the front for the conversion.
Rear shock tower and shocks remain as they are.
Does this help with body roll?

thanks
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:15 AM   #462
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I went through the full ofna refit mainly because of the oil volume on stock short shocks.

A local driver did a similar solution for using the stock 1/7th (same as front 1/8) shocks but they work not so good for more than 15 min on high heat ... and are more difficult to tune ...

Anyway, both ways are great alternative as will make your car more aggressive and well planted in the track,

cya !

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Old 09-30-2009, 09:15 AM   #463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brc358 View Post
Does this help with body roll?

thanks
Three suspension parameters are going to affect body roll:
1. spring rate
2. roll center
3. sway bar stiffness
Here is what I suggest:
If you are pleased with the handling of the car with the springs you are using, and the roll center setting is getting the car through the corners, then increase the stiffness of the sway bars to control the chassis roll. You will have to adjust and test to arrive at the 'balance' for front and rear sway bars.
However if the traction at your track is high enough you may be able to raise the roll centers to reduce the body roll.

I have not experimented with vertical shock mount positions on the DM1 or DM1 Spec, but they appear to provide more options for adjusting the 'wheel rate', which may have 'some' resulting affect on chassis roll.
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:42 AM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurveTracer View Post
Three suspension parameters are going to affect body roll:
1. spring rate
2. roll center
3. sway bar stiffness
Here is what I suggest:
If you are pleased with the handling of the car with the springs you are using, and the roll center setting is getting the car through the corners, then increase the stiffness of the sway bars to control the chassis roll. You will have to adjust and test to arrive at the 'balance' for front and rear sway bars.
However if the traction at your track is high enough you may be able to raise the roll centers to reduce the body roll.

I have not experimented with vertical shock mount positions on the DM1 or DM1 Spec, but they appear to provide more options for adjusting the 'wheel rate', which may have 'some' resulting affect on chassis roll.
Thanks for the tip. I did check my sway bars, and they are flat, so I will start by adjusting them. The car does have good traction front and rear, so that is not an issue, just the body roll.
thanks again
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:57 AM   #465
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[QUOTE=brc358;6410611]
Quote:
Originally Posted by brc358 View Post

So I only need <1> shock tower for the front for the conversion.
Rear shock tower and shocks remain as they are.
Does this help with body roll?

thanks
Yes you will only need the front shock tower if you are running the DM1 Spec. Standing up the shocks makes them more consistant because the air bubble that is normally at the top of your shock (when standing vertically) is now in the middle of the shock when the shocks are laying down. The shock plunger is partially submerged in shock oil and partially in air. As the air bubbles mix it is the equivalent of using a lighter weight oil. You could have two different shock responces from the beginning of the race to the end. It is almost like not bleeding your brakes. They become spongy.

As far as body roll I agree with the guy that said chassis stiffness is a factor and in addition to that shock spring stiffness and oil weight. The body roll is a function of chassis flex and shock deflection. Shock deflection is a function of oil viscosity and spring constant. To get less roll you can increase spring stiffness or decrease oil viscosity.
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