1Likesnew ofna DM1 pics and thoughts :):)
05-26-2009, 07:24 PM
#361
Pete, I believe the stock setup is 80W all around per the instruction manual. I ran the stock setup at LHR Sunday on 45 shore Ipanema tires. I played with the swaybars to adjust how tight or loose the car was. It definatly felt like the track cooled off thru the day as my car felt looser and looser through each heat/main.
05-26-2009, 09:20 PM
#362
Pete, I believe the stock setup is 80W all around per the instruction manual. I ran the stock setup at LHR Sunday on 45 shore Ipanema tires. I played with the swaybars to adjust how tight or loose the car was. It definatly felt like the track cooled off thru the day as my car felt looser and looser through each heat/main.
05-27-2009, 04:41 AM
#363
On the DM-1 Spec that I just got, there are blade sway bars on the front and rear. They are attached to the lower arms. If you have have the blade flat (parallel to the ground) that is the softest, rotating to 90 degress makes them stiffer.
I adjusted the rear on my car to get more steering, which worked very well.
I adjusted the rear on my car to get more steering, which worked very well.
05-27-2009, 04:51 AM
#364
Raced the car for the first time this weekend in Lincoln at the Fireball race. Car was pretty competitive, even thought I did not have enough fuel through the engine to get it real snappy out of the corners.
I did end up breaking two front lower arm holders. In talking to another DM-1 racer he had the same issue. Anyone else have this issue? I fixed one but would like to either make a brace out of aluminum or carbon fiber, to help protect the plastic.
On the stock body, the lexan seemed very thin compaired to other bodies. The rear wing was so thin that even with an 8/32 pan head screw to hold it on, one tug and it pulled through.
Other than those two items the car was pretty compettitive for the first time out of the box. So very happy with the purchase.
I did end up breaking two front lower arm holders. In talking to another DM-1 racer he had the same issue. Anyone else have this issue? I fixed one but would like to either make a brace out of aluminum or carbon fiber, to help protect the plastic.
On the stock body, the lexan seemed very thin compaired to other bodies. The rear wing was so thin that even with an 8/32 pan head screw to hold it on, one tug and it pulled through.
Other than those two items the car was pretty compettitive for the first time out of the box. So very happy with the purchase.
05-27-2009, 07:30 AM
#365
Tech Rookie
Yep, i have experience that before on the rear and on the front. I wish that there were more aftermarket parts available for our cars!
05-27-2009, 11:21 AM
#366
On the DM-1 Spec that I just got, there are blade sway bars on the front and rear. They are attached to the lower arms. If you have have the blade flat (parallel to the ground) that is the softest, rotating to 90 degress makes them stiffer.
I adjusted the rear on my car to get more steering, which worked very well.
I adjusted the rear on my car to get more steering, which worked very well.
I just got mine too; spent my time on the "do it yourself" part and didn't notice the sway bars. Do I feel stupid!THANKS--jack
05-27-2009, 04:05 PM
#368
He was pitted next to me in Lincoln and did not even know they made the part. Check out the site.
I broke the front twice, well really 1 1/2. as I repaired it to make the main and finish which I did. Since I did the RTR as well, is the rear the same? I assume it would be the back one for the rear as it was the up front on the front end.
06-05-2009, 09:56 AM
#369
Can someone tell me between the 1/7th scale DM1-PRO and the 1/8th DM1-SPEC...would that possible to do a conversion (from DM1-pro to the spec) by only getting couple parts like chassis, radio deck and things..?
Or they are totally differnet things with different parts which is not worth it to convert...thanks.
Or they are totally differnet things with different parts which is not worth it to convert...thanks.
06-05-2009, 11:48 AM
#370
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
There is no conversion kit. Call Nitrohouse and let them know you are looking for part to convert the DM-1 to DM-1 Spec.
You will need the following...
1. Spec Chassis
2. Center dogbones shorter
3. Rear shock tower
4. Rear shocks
5. Body.
You can goto Ofna's website and download the DM-1 Spec Instructions manual, and it will list all the part numbers for you.
You will need the following...
1. Spec Chassis
2. Center dogbones shorter
3. Rear shock tower
4. Rear shocks
5. Body.
You can goto Ofna's website and download the DM-1 Spec Instructions manual, and it will list all the part numbers for you.
06-08-2009, 06:13 PM
#371
Tech Rookie
I got my ofna DM-1 a month ago and i love it. Here are a few pictures and a video of my tire braking apart.
here is the link
hobbyistbook.com/video/gallery/Ofna-DM-1
here is the link
hobbyistbook.com/video/gallery/Ofna-DM-1
06-10-2009, 10:49 PM
#372
06-16-2009, 07:23 PM
#373
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (101)
DM 1 spec
I really like this car. Bought one off here used and It works great. I just put a mugen centax clutch on mine and holy cow what a difference that made. Well along with the collari modded rb! Was alot of work but it is way outta control now. I use a mugen offroad air cleaner on mine and they are about as good as they get. Has anyone put the stand up front shocktower on one?
06-16-2009, 07:52 PM
#374
I really like this car. Bought one off here used and It works great. I just put a mugen centax clutch on mine and holy cow what a difference that made. Well along with the collari modded rb! Was alot of work but it is way outta control now. I use a mugen offroad air cleaner on mine and they are about as good as they get. Has anyone put the stand up front shocktower on one?
are you using a mrx4x clutch bell?
and are you using mugen pinions or do the dm1 pinions fit?
thanks jeff
