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Old 04-16-2009, 07:37 PM   #331
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I was surprised too! However, letís see what they say after they get the engine. I was using 15% fuel In the brake in phase and 30% on the track. The one thing I notice is it sounded like if it was too rich even if I lean it up to 2 Ĺ turns. However, the engine stall when I hit full throttle then I richen a bit until the engine didnít do it anymore, temperature was find. The one thing that I am kind of confused is that the inside of the engine where the crankshaft is located has no scratches. Which is odd because if this happen when idle or full throttle it would leave some marks on the inside walls.
Normally i shim my engine if i use 30%nitro, it's look like you run the motor too lean, for break in normally it took me over 1/2 gallon before i start leaning it' i also replace the conrod after a gallon or 1 1/2 gallon just for precaution, and btw this is also depend on what engine are you using' i never try those stock engine, try the novarossi 28 you will love it' good luck to ur next engine'
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:23 PM   #332
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Hi,

Help I am putting together my DM1 Pro kit,and installing a .21 VSPEC I had laying around.And the pipe JP3 seems to hit the gas tank when its not in the spring mount at the tip of the pipe.Now I could install the mount and force it alittle bit and it wont hit.But then its not a square tight seal where the pipe attaches to the header???? What do you think?

Thanks Pete
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:37 PM   #333
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Hi,

Help I am putting together my DM1 Pro kit,and installing a .21 VSPEC I had laying around.And the pipe JP3 seems to hit the gas tank when its not in the spring mount at the tip of the pipe.Now I could install the mount and force it alittle bit and it wont hit.But then its not a square tight seal where the pipe attaches to the header???? What do you think?

Thanks Pete
I had this same problem with the same motor & pipe combo in my dm1 spec. What I did to fix it was take some of the bend out of the header pipe. After doing this you may find that the header now hits the rear upper hinge pin locator (maybe not with the pro version). If it is, its not that big of a deal it will melt the plastic (a little) and clearance itself. Or you could change the header pipe to the "dual bend header" ofna part #51913. Hope this helps. Have fun.

Last edited by sandfan85; 04-16-2009 at 09:40 PM. Reason: I've got the DM1 Spec
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:51 PM   #334
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Thanks! How did you bend it? Heat?

I will probably go to the LHS to get the header since this is out of my buggy.And dont want to make it fit in this car and not the buggy.Going to get a Picco .28 for it when they come in.

Do I really need to put more bearings in the front of the bell? If so how does the washer for the bolt not hit the bearing since it wont be resting on the crank anymore?

ANd these shocks do come with oil right? Hard to tell.Guess I could pull one off.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:29 PM   #335
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Thanks! How did you bend it? Heat?

I will probably go to the LHS to get the header since this is out of my buggy.And dont want to make it fit in this car and not the buggy.Going to get a Picco .28 for it when they come in.

Do I really need to put more bearings in the front of the bell? If so how does the washer for the bolt not hit the bearing since it wont be resting on the crank anymore?

ANd these shocks do come with oil right? Hard to tell.Guess I could pull one off.
For bending the header i just used two pairs of pliars, it doesnt take much. But if you are going back and forth between two cars you probably want to get the other header. As far as the clutch goes, you definately need to put an additional bearing in the nose of the bell. Because the snout is so long and heavy there is alot of deflection which causes the single bearing to come apart prematurely. When adding the additional bearing (2 total) you need to use a "sg shaft extension kit" this adds length to the crankshaft to allow for the additional bearing, then use shims to adjust your endplay like normal. The OFNA part# is 10099. If you go to A main hobbies and look for part#OFN10099 this is the kit you need. You will notice 2 different length collars in the kit, one of those is what you need to fill the void you are refering to. Hope this helps. Have fun.
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:20 AM   #336
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do you have the part # for sg shaft extension kit, what brand?
thanks'
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:10 PM   #337
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do you have the part # for sg shaft extension kit, what brand?
thanks'

This is what u need...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNT03&P=0
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:25 PM   #338
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Default TORNADO RACE

THERE IS A CLASS FOR THE DM-1'S, IGT'S ETC. THIS SUN. AT 301 RACEWAY AT THE TORNADO RACE THIS WEEKEND
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:34 PM   #339
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THERE IS A CLASS FOR THE DM-1'S, IGT'S ETC. THIS SUN. AT 301 RACEWAY AT THE TORNADO RACE THIS WEEKEND
Why didn't anybody show up last Saturday for the 5th scale/ IGT/DM-1 points series race?
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:03 PM   #340
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everyone is getting ready for this weekend and sat. is bad for a lot of guys
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Old 04-21-2009, 01:54 AM   #341
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Gotcha, well hopefully more people will show up for the next race on May 23rd.
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:44 PM   #342
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Picked up a LRP .30 today. Still need to get a pipe though. Planned on using the stock exhaust set-up but the manifold is too large.
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Old 04-23-2009, 05:03 PM   #343
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Here's a few pics









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Old 04-25-2009, 06:16 PM   #344
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Sweet pics. Just a shout out to the DM1 Crews. Max Velocity Racing has the full Carbon Fiber kits for the DM1. I almost knocked a pound off my car weight with the parts and removing the unneeded stuff. Check it out. www.maxvelocityracing.com
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new ofna DM1 pics and thoughts :):)-dsc_0284.jpg  
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Old 04-25-2009, 06:29 PM   #345
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Nice CatDaddy that car should be wicked fast!!!!
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