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Old 09-26-2006, 03:55 PM
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Default Engine won't start

I have what I think is the HPI Nitro Racer, bought from a private party a few months ago. I am a bit new to nitro so maybe someone can help me out with my problem here.

The car wouldn't start at all when i bought it, looks like because it's beeen sitting around and the previous owner never bother cleaning the engine or putting the after-run oil in it. The air valve in the carbureator won't even turn, it's all sticky and I can barely pull the pull-start string.

So, I opened up the carbureator, the engine head and took out the pull start from the engine and put some drops of after-run oil. I was able to start the engine, but it died again after running for a less than a minute.

I haven't been able to start it again since. I checked the glow plugs, igniter, leaks, but everything seems to be okay. I tested the glow plugs in my other car (nitro evo rush) and it works fine there, so it's not the igniter, plugs or fuel that's causing the problem.

I opened up the valve about 50% just to let some air flow hoping that the engine would start, but no luck.

Any ideas? I probably will have to dissamble the engine again and clean it some more, but I want to post this message just in case there is an easy fix here.

thx
Attached Thumbnails Engine won't start-img_1308-sjpg.jpg   Engine won't start-img_1315s.jpg   Engine won't start-img_1311s.jpg   Engine won't start-img_1322s.jpg   Engine won't start-evo-rush.jpg  

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Old 09-26-2006, 04:07 PM
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If the fuel tank has a primer, try that. or the car might be running to rich and cools off to fast to stay running. also make sure the piston still has compression. just some ideas that might help.
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Old 09-26-2006, 04:16 PM
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if you have access to compressed air, then i suggest you blow through the carb, the fuel tank, and the exhaust nipple to the tank. i run after oil, and i have had this problem with the oil in the fuel crystalizing causing a blockage. but also check temps when it is running and when it warms up, shut it down and turn the flywheel and check the compression. after running for a minuet, the engine maybe running out of compression, running to hot causing the fuel to evaporate when it gets to the carby. just a couple of things to try . hope this helps..
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Old 10-02-2006, 12:25 AM
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Default compression

thank you for the info. I tried starting the engine again this evening, it ran just like before for about 15 seconds this time before it died out.

So, i took the engine apart, pull out the cylinder and piston and cleaned them up. i'll try running it again tomorrow and will see how it goes.
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Old 10-02-2006, 02:01 AM
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check all you mixture settings, they would be the 1st things i'd check before pulling it a part, ive got air craft engines that have been sitting for over 20yrs without after run in them (never ever used it, still dont) i just put fuel in there to degum them and they run fine
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:03 AM
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Check to make sure that you are turning the engine in the correct direction. I saw a VERY experienced driver have this same problem a few weeks ago and it was due to the engine being turned in the wrong direction.
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Old 10-02-2006, 02:58 PM
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Default engine turn?

how would you turn an engine in the wrong direction?

sorry i am a bit new to nitro..

anyway, i tried to start the car this morning after I cleaned up everything last night.

Just like before, it started no problem after a couple pulls, i opened up the carb to allow some extra airflow. i increase the throttle and it revs nicely. white smokes coming out of the exhaust, which i think is normal. i kept revving it a few times and then after about a minute, it died again.

One thing I noticed while the engine was runing is that on idle speed the engine sounds like it was going to stall, so i kept on revving it a little to keep the engine running.

The engine was a bit warm after it died, i didn't bring my temp gauge so i am not sure how hot it got. i turned the fly wheel and felt some tension and I think that means that there is some compression in there. it's a little bit easier to turn on the flywheel compare to when it was cold, if that means anything.

so i am kinda lost, apparently cleaning the engine brings it to life, but only for a minute or so. Any ideas?
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:16 PM
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It sounds like the carb is set tooooo rich. Find the main needle on the carb body and turn it clockwise (IN) about 45 degrees (1/4 turn) of where its at right now.

You mentioned that when it is cold the flywheel turns easier so it might be that fuel seeps down into crankcase and not locking the piston when you let the engine sit awhile.

When you turn it on, the engine is overly rich so it dies out by stalling. Try to lean it out some and give it another start to see what it does.

Very important, check the primer button on the fuel tank. It might have an air leak. Mine was acting up and my engine would shut down on me while idling.

Let us know of the progress
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:20 PM
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oh by the way.... I just noticed that your air filter needs to be cleaned
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Old 10-03-2006, 02:38 AM
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I had exactly the same symptoms as you with my engine.
The engine wouldn't start, when I finally got it to start - it stalled at idle so I increased the revs to keep it alive.
Each time I had to gradually increase the rpm, just to keep it running - tuning wasn't my problem - but it's also a possible that it's causing your problem.
In the end - I discovered no compression; the piston sleeve was well worn almost absolutely no compression at all.
To me it sounds like you might be in store for a rebuild (your ride is 2nd hand right?).

Check the compression of your engine thoroughly, by disassembling your engine and pushing the piston towards the top of the sleeve, noting the resistance - if any at all. If there's none or very little, rebuild. If there is still reasonable compression, then that's not the problem.
Might want to check for air leaks/ any other problems inhibiting your performance as well.

Good luck with your problem.

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Old 10-03-2006, 06:15 AM
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If your car stalls at idle, and the only way to keep it running is to give it gas, than it sounds to me theres not enough gas at idle.

My car did the samething untill I increased the idle.

Try increasing the idle then start the car. If the wheels start to spin (car off the ground), then slowly decrease idle untill they just come to a stop
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Old 10-03-2006, 12:12 PM
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here are the pictures of the parts when i took everything apart the other night. so looks like the verdict is leaning towards engine loosing compression.
Attached Thumbnails Engine won't start-img_1337-side.jpg   Engine won't start-img_1334-small.jpg   Engine won't start-img_1332-small.jpg   Engine won't start-img_1331-cylinder.jpg  
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Old 10-03-2006, 07:06 PM
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From what I can see, the engine looks well worn. Did you try testing the compression by pushing the piston towards the top of the sleeve? (take the parts out of the engine, and gently push the piston up towards the top of the sleeve)

It looks like loss of compression, as you are certain that the carb settings are not the problem. Although, just to be sure you should check your idle adjustment just to be safe.
But other than that, looks like you have a re-build on your hands.

Good luck.
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Old 10-04-2006, 05:45 AM
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Your sleeve and piston look pretty bad. It looks like it's starting to corode, probably from not using after run oil. Some newbies don't realize the importance of putting after run oil or WD 40 in their engines after running. It doesn't ake long for the fuel to attract moisture and begin corroding the engine. I would get a new engine and always use some sort of after run oil. Good Luck!
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Old 10-19-2006, 01:00 PM
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Default nitro replacement

thank you for the info everyone. how do I tell what kind of engine and size my car have? i think it's a .15 engine, but I want to make sure that it fits in the car.
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