anyone here mix thier own fuel?
#16
sounds like a hobby on its own. guess its like making your own beer.
#17
well when i baught my methanol the guy said "well dont drnk it, you'll get drunk, its nothing but 99.95% pure corn liqour" i thoguht it was kinda funny, is it methanol or ethanol that gets you drunk?
#18
Interesting concept making your own fuel, will have to give it a try sometime.
#21
LOL you cant drink that, lmao
#22
i will have to give blendzall and VP's acstor oil a try after i go through my 2 BeNOL's, also, i was thinking of ordering this synthetic from VP, is this good enough to use in glow fuel? http://vpracingfuels.com/rs7.html thanks
#23
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (101)
Synthetic
If you use synthetic don't use alot as it cannot come close to castor oil in lubrication. I have used 2% syn. with 10% caster and it worked good. Synthetic oil is good for high temps. I raced 2 cycle open go karts for 15 years and one of my competitors used klotz synthetic oil and in 3 races his rod and main bearings were wore out.
#24
so whats up guys, i just ran my first mini batch of fuel, not bad at all, 10% castor oil, 20% nitro and well, you can figure the 70% left is methanol
at first it was slightly stubborn to start, then once it was running it was rough, i had to lean the hsn out over a full turn to get good power, and temps around 230, BUT, it was very humid, has just rained, and i was running in my yard that needs mowing so i couldnt get full results, plus the air filter was really dirty, i figure once i get it all cleaned up and its nice and sunny outside it should run fine, it wants to rev up really quicky from all the power, but i couldnt put it all to the ground due to my stupid slipper pad (more on order) and i was thinking of using 2% synthetic oil and maybe see how it tunes then, thought about selling some to people i know
also, will running 100% castor oil kill plugs faster or make them foul faster? and should i run a hotter plug? thanks
also, i have a 5 gallon just of the M3 methanol, its quite hard to pour from without loosing half of what you are pouring, any tips here? or will it be alot easier when it gets lower? thanks
Sean
at first it was slightly stubborn to start, then once it was running it was rough, i had to lean the hsn out over a full turn to get good power, and temps around 230, BUT, it was very humid, has just rained, and i was running in my yard that needs mowing so i couldnt get full results, plus the air filter was really dirty, i figure once i get it all cleaned up and its nice and sunny outside it should run fine, it wants to rev up really quicky from all the power, but i couldnt put it all to the ground due to my stupid slipper pad (more on order) and i was thinking of using 2% synthetic oil and maybe see how it tunes then, thought about selling some to people i know
also, will running 100% castor oil kill plugs faster or make them foul faster? and should i run a hotter plug? thanks
also, i have a 5 gallon just of the M3 methanol, its quite hard to pour from without loosing half of what you are pouring, any tips here? or will it be alot easier when it gets lower? thanks
Sean
#25
Tech Fanatic
richey,
this is my understanding, the castor comes from the ricon seed which is pressed then the remains are bottled and degummed. so i believe that it is the same thing. i did a lot of research on this at the time that i mixed my fuel, but this was a while back and i forget a lot of the specifics.
rafael,
nah man, i am not mixing my own fuel. i tried it and it worked great, but its a lot of work. just like someone else said, its a hobby of its own.
apollo,
when i mixed my own fuel, i used only castor oil. but you have to remember one thing, castor oil burns slower than synthetic. thus, some people say that if you only run castor oil, your bottom end will tend to be a tad sluggish. i never experienced this problem, i was completely happy with the way my engine performed. obvously, it ran at lower temps requiring you to adjust the low end needle and the hsn accordingly--- this is because the castor burn slower and thus lubricating longer and keeping the temps down. if i was to do it again, i would probably try 6% castor, 2% synthetic and the rest in methanal. but make sure you get good castor oil.
i know vp racing use to sell castor oil. but it turned out there stuff was junk and they even took it off the market--- it was that bad. but i have not read into it for a while, so they may have new stuff now that is good. i dont know about that.
the bottom line is that it is a lot of work and i only did it for my personal use, not to sell it. if you want to make profits, you have to buy the nitro in 50 gallon drum and also the methanal. but then you come into the problem of storage, etc. you are better off just buying from the store.
I RESEARCHED A LOT ABOUT WHAT GOES IN WHAT COMMERCIAL FUEL AND THE BEST STUFF OUT THERE IS WHITE LIGHTNING (WHICH PAOLO RUNS) AND BYRON'S FUEL (WHICH IS THE SAME AS MUGEN FUEL). BY THE WAY, YOU MINE AS WELL RUN WHAT THE BEST RUN.
this is my understanding, the castor comes from the ricon seed which is pressed then the remains are bottled and degummed. so i believe that it is the same thing. i did a lot of research on this at the time that i mixed my fuel, but this was a while back and i forget a lot of the specifics.
rafael,
nah man, i am not mixing my own fuel. i tried it and it worked great, but its a lot of work. just like someone else said, its a hobby of its own.
apollo,
when i mixed my own fuel, i used only castor oil. but you have to remember one thing, castor oil burns slower than synthetic. thus, some people say that if you only run castor oil, your bottom end will tend to be a tad sluggish. i never experienced this problem, i was completely happy with the way my engine performed. obvously, it ran at lower temps requiring you to adjust the low end needle and the hsn accordingly--- this is because the castor burn slower and thus lubricating longer and keeping the temps down. if i was to do it again, i would probably try 6% castor, 2% synthetic and the rest in methanal. but make sure you get good castor oil.
i know vp racing use to sell castor oil. but it turned out there stuff was junk and they even took it off the market--- it was that bad. but i have not read into it for a while, so they may have new stuff now that is good. i dont know about that.
the bottom line is that it is a lot of work and i only did it for my personal use, not to sell it. if you want to make profits, you have to buy the nitro in 50 gallon drum and also the methanal. but then you come into the problem of storage, etc. you are better off just buying from the store.
I RESEARCHED A LOT ABOUT WHAT GOES IN WHAT COMMERCIAL FUEL AND THE BEST STUFF OUT THERE IS WHITE LIGHTNING (WHICH PAOLO RUNS) AND BYRON'S FUEL (WHICH IS THE SAME AS MUGEN FUEL). BY THE WAY, YOU MINE AS WELL RUN WHAT THE BEST RUN.
#26
joemugen,
should i raise mytotal oil content and make part of it synthetic oil or should i keep the same 10% oil content and make it 2% synthetic? or would 12%total content with 8-9% of it castor and 3-4% synthetic keep thetemps the same while still gaining back that lowend grunt,because i did notice that it lacked power within the first 10% of the thottle, also, is it normal to have to lean it out over a full turn when you use high/all castor fuels? thanks
should i raise mytotal oil content and make part of it synthetic oil or should i keep the same 10% oil content and make it 2% synthetic? or would 12%total content with 8-9% of it castor and 3-4% synthetic keep thetemps the same while still gaining back that lowend grunt,because i did notice that it lacked power within the first 10% of the thottle, also, is it normal to have to lean it out over a full turn when you use high/all castor fuels? thanks
#27
Tech Fanatic
apollo,
i am not a master on this fuel thing, i am just telling you from my experience. but, if i were to do it, i would be a total- at most-9% oil. as i said earlier, i would try 2% synthetic and 6% castor. or maybe 2% synthetic and 7% castor. also, these scenarios are based on getting the most power out of your engine. if you dont race and just mess around in your back yard, go with a higher oil percentage, you will get better lubrication and the engine will last longer.
as far as the hsn, a couple factors could play in that. one, if the engine was still new and breaking in, no matter what fuel you use you would have to turn the hsn in. it dont matter how far you turn it as long as the engine is producing smoke... if you are not good at eyeing up the smke, as long as the engine is not over 240 you are fine--- assuming you are running novarossi (different engines run at different temps)
secondly, if you are using a better lubricated fuel (100% castor) it is normal to have to turn it in.
also, the temp and humidity outside causes variances in the hsn setting.
i am not a master on this fuel thing, i am just telling you from my experience. but, if i were to do it, i would be a total- at most-9% oil. as i said earlier, i would try 2% synthetic and 6% castor. or maybe 2% synthetic and 7% castor. also, these scenarios are based on getting the most power out of your engine. if you dont race and just mess around in your back yard, go with a higher oil percentage, you will get better lubrication and the engine will last longer.
as far as the hsn, a couple factors could play in that. one, if the engine was still new and breaking in, no matter what fuel you use you would have to turn the hsn in. it dont matter how far you turn it as long as the engine is producing smoke... if you are not good at eyeing up the smke, as long as the engine is not over 240 you are fine--- assuming you are running novarossi (different engines run at different temps)
secondly, if you are using a better lubricated fuel (100% castor) it is normal to have to turn it in.
also, the temp and humidity outside causes variances in the hsn setting.
#28
thanks, i will ahve to order a quart of KL-200 all synthetic from my local moto shop, i am thinking about just going 9% castor and 3% synthetic, i want to keep more castor just because castor is better hands down, and the engine ahs 2.5 gallons through ti already and i was just wondering if i leaned it out so much just because it was getting such good lubrication, also, do glow plugs usually foul up quicker using all casor or high castor amounts? thanks
#29
Tech Fanatic
i never experienced any differnce in the glowplug burning out any faster. but i would suggest 2% synthetic and 7% castor. also, as long as the engine is creating smoke, temps are not above 240 and even 250, and the glowplug wire is straight, it dont matter how far you turn that hsn in--- even if it wouldnt turn anymore (thats extreme and probably would never happen but if it did and the engine was running fine, it would be ok). what i am trying to say is dont judge the fuel by the hsn setting. to me, its a good sign. it means you can lean the engine out even further while still keeping the temp down.
#30
first of all i must say that the methanol stinks..dont know why, the fuel has a very unique smell to it, so i added some fuel scent and the problem was cured
anyhow, i just ran my last bit of fuel, runs very well even though the humidity is near 100% right now, temps in the 225-245 range (perfect) and great power and throttle response, i must say that i am very pleased with all castor oil fuel, i might not even use some synthetic oils, but i have been curious bout VP's RS-7 synthetic oil, i have emailed them for a shipping charge, if it is cheap enough i might order some just for an experiment
also, it seems to be running best so far on HPI's R3 plug, but i just got a new OS #8 yesterday so i will have to give it a shot, and i have noticed a slight pinkish tint on the engines internals but i am not worried about there, im waiting for the "castor varnish" to build up so i have that layer of scuff protection, and even though it has 5% less nitro than my last fuel, it pulls my taller gear ratio like it is nothing at all (last fuel didnt do too well)
anyhow, i just ran my last bit of fuel, runs very well even though the humidity is near 100% right now, temps in the 225-245 range (perfect) and great power and throttle response, i must say that i am very pleased with all castor oil fuel, i might not even use some synthetic oils, but i have been curious bout VP's RS-7 synthetic oil, i have emailed them for a shipping charge, if it is cheap enough i might order some just for an experiment
also, it seems to be running best so far on HPI's R3 plug, but i just got a new OS #8 yesterday so i will have to give it a shot, and i have noticed a slight pinkish tint on the engines internals but i am not worried about there, im waiting for the "castor varnish" to build up so i have that layer of scuff protection, and even though it has 5% less nitro than my last fuel, it pulls my taller gear ratio like it is nothing at all (last fuel didnt do too well)