Mugen MRX-4R
#1051
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
I wasn't much into setups n stuff when I was learning about the MRX4 swapping rear blocks n such, but I seen many people using the 4.5 in the rear and that is what I went with along with the kit setup. Personally I like the setup. My local track is permanent, and the other one was made: cleaned up lot, layed down asphalt and really smooth. Traction is pretty good on both as I never had an issue with that.
#1052
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by 3,2,1,..GO!
Ok thanks Sohlman,,,you think run in on the track will do the trick? You not in Fl. racing with Pooh?? O yea also how are you guys attaching the engine (21 Ro1A Ninja) to the engine blocks? No matter what i do I cant get the Hex driver straight down on the bolt,,it's always at a angle because of the hex driver hitting the side of the engine. The last thing i want to do is stripe these engine bolts. Any tips,,tricks?? Why dont the just make a engine with grooves for the hex driver?
lift the engine up some and then tighten the screws. If the engine is sitting on the blocks themselves then you will have the problem you mentioned. Simply lift the engine off the blocks and start each screw and then you should have no problem.
Mark
#1054
Reciver Cover
I Need To Cover The Reciver And Was Wondering What To Use.
#1055
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
What rear block is everyone using? 4.5 or the 5.5????
If you are using the 4.5 do you run on a track with lots of traction?
The guys using the 5.5, are you running on parking lot tracks?
Anyone running something weird like the 4.5 front block and the rear 5.5?
If you are using the 4.5 do you run on a track with lots of traction?
The guys using the 5.5, are you running on parking lot tracks?
Anyone running something weird like the 4.5 front block and the rear 5.5?
4.5 = Lower Roll Center, More Body Roll, Better on less grip track, Slower cornering speed at grippy track.
5.5 = Neutral <--- I'm using this.
6.5 = Higher Roll Center, Less Body Roll, Better on smooth track, Faster cornering speed at grippy track.
When you mix front and rear suspension mount :
4.5 front and 5.5 rear = Anti Squat
5.5 front and 4.5 rear = Pro Squat, helpful when you feel too much understeering at mid corner off throttle. ( Or your car turns wide radius on throttle while doing mid cornering ). --- I fixed my MTX3 understeering problem with high roll center & pro squat after 3 weeks "brain dead" to find more steering at mid cornering.
See attachment for complete reading.
Last edited by asw7576; 04-15-2007 at 10:56 AM.
#1056
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by asw7576
It really depends on your driving style, your race track and what you after.
4.5 = Lower Roll Center, More Body Roll, Better on less grip track, Slower cornering speed at grippy track.
5.5 = Neutral <--- I'm using this.
6.5 = Higher Roll Center, Less Body Roll, Better on smooth track, Faster cornering speed at grippy track.
When you mix front and rear suspension mount :
4.5 front and 5.5 rear = Anti Squat
5.5 front and 4.5 rear = Pro Squat, helpful when you feel too much understeering at mid corner off throttle. ( Or your car turns wide radius on throttle while doing mid cornering ). --- I fixed my MTX3 understeering problem with high roll center & pro squat after 3 weeks "brain dead" to find more steering at mid cornering.
See attachment for complete reading.
4.5 = Lower Roll Center, More Body Roll, Better on less grip track, Slower cornering speed at grippy track.
5.5 = Neutral <--- I'm using this.
6.5 = Higher Roll Center, Less Body Roll, Better on smooth track, Faster cornering speed at grippy track.
When you mix front and rear suspension mount :
4.5 front and 5.5 rear = Anti Squat
5.5 front and 4.5 rear = Pro Squat, helpful when you feel too much understeering at mid corner off throttle. ( Or your car turns wide radius on throttle while doing mid cornering ). --- I fixed my MTX3 understeering problem with high roll center & pro squat after 3 weeks "brain dead" to find more steering at mid cornering.
See attachment for complete reading.
If there's a LOT of bite you need body roll (4.5mm blocks) to stop you from traction rolling, so to say what block you need for this or that type of track doesn't always work. Most permanent facilities that are sealed and treated weekly will work great with a 4.5mm block. If traction is a touch lower you may possibly switch to a 5.5mm block, but there are other tuning options available (camber gain) to make the car work very well with the 4.5mm block.
I'm sure most everyone here will agree... the 4.5mm block is the most widely used set-up
#1057
Suspended
Originally Posted by cdelong
...If there's a LOT of bite you need body roll (4.5mm blocks) to stop you from traction rolling...
Last edited by GK; 04-15-2007 at 02:40 PM.
#1058
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
if you have no body roll and lots of traction your car will just flip in the corners. you need the roll to absorb that rolling momentum in the corners and STOP you from traction rolling.
sorry if you can't understand my explanation.... maybe someone else can explain it in terms easier for you to understand.
sorry if you can't understand my explanation.... maybe someone else can explain it in terms easier for you to understand.
#1059
4.5, 5.5, 6.5 are just fine adjustments to suit your track or what you feel confidence driving it.
I can't say 4.5 is better than 6.5 or vice versa. I don't know..... it's everybody speed secret / recipe. All I can say 4.5 means Lower Roll Center and induce more body roll, while 6.5 is the opposite.
I can't say 4.5 is better than 6.5 or vice versa. I don't know..... it's everybody speed secret / recipe. All I can say 4.5 means Lower Roll Center and induce more body roll, while 6.5 is the opposite.
#1060
Suspended
Originally Posted by cdelong
if you have no body roll and lots of traction your car will just flip in the corners. you need the roll to absorb that rolling momentum in the corners and STOP you from traction rolling.
sorry if you can't understand my explanation.... maybe someone else can explain it in terms easier for you to understand.
sorry if you can't understand my explanation.... maybe someone else can explain it in terms easier for you to understand.
Last edited by GK; 04-15-2007 at 11:51 AM.
#1061
Originally Posted by GK
I understand what you're trying to say, I just disagree with you and think opposite is true, i.e. high bite track = higher roll center, low bite = lower roll center. When the car rolls more in high bite condition, outer wheels want to dig in which will result in traction rolling.
If you don't want to hook-up the wheels on a corner is a matter of other adjustments, the roll center makes the chassis twist and turn by the centrifugual forces.
Also, cornering on those cars is done raising the inner rear wheel and sliding the whole track, so the chassis needs to roll just to make it possible to slide the wheels.
#1062
Reciver Cover
Hello Im New To The Forum And need Some Help With The Mrx-4r I Need to Cover The Reciver What Has Everybody else used
#1063
Originally Posted by dfilo123
Hello Im New To The Forum And need Some Help With The Mrx-4r I Need to Cover The Reciver What Has Everybody else used
#1064
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by dfilo123
Hello Im New To The Forum And need Some Help With The Mrx-4r I Need to Cover The Reciver What Has Everybody else used
#1065
Originally Posted by dfilo123
Hello Im New To The Forum And need Some Help With The Mrx-4r I Need to Cover The Reciver What Has Everybody else used