wario69

I was in the theater waiting for "Dead Silence" to start earlier and I realized what you meant about the dremel part (thanks). But what is this "mod the car for short rear WB". Is this hard to do? Sorry to ask these lame questions as I am new to anything 1/8 scale. I usually ignore 1/8 scales threads in the past because I never owned one. By the way, my mugens are being hooked up with the FASST system. -- Thanks Ritchie (brooklynhobbies). As for engine, well, this might take a while as I might have to sell a bunch of personal stuff to afford a good one. I want something "Murnan" modified. I might as well since a spent what I consider for myself a small fortune.

-- Wario

Pooh2

Get a Murnan. U will not b disapointed.

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Besides the one piece engine mount, the MRX-3 option sway bar" the one with the blades" kit you do not have to BUY anything else. Aluminnium parts make your car look cool but thats about it,they all perform the same function as stock parts, plus they are to stiff and will snap arms like crazy. These cars are designed for out of the box performance period. Why would you spend money on a aftermarket part for your car then have to modify another part for it to fit? Makes no sense. I've watched pro's kill with a stock car. It's all about Set-Up, Engine and Tires. Well it helps if you can drive .02

AMGRacer

Hi All I have recently joined the 1/8th scale brigade! I am looking for some advice on a car maintenance schedule for a MRX4R. My chassis is brand new and I am using a Ninja motor. What do you guys check/replace and how often on these cars? Any tips/advice greatly appreciated...

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Ninja engines are great engines, I have about 2 1/2 gallons through it with no problems at all, conrod is in great shape too, no leaks temps at about 270 As far as the car maintanence wise, always check your belts and pulleys for ware and the clutch thats all. Welcome and Enjoy

Speed_Racer

I just bought sealed MRX4-R from a guy that had bought it maybe about 4-5 months ago and was wondering if there is a way to find out if its the new version before I open it up? Rather sell it and get the new updated version.

mtmmotorcycles

Can someone please pm me some info on this short wheelbase modification.
Thanks Brendan

Speed_Racer

I think it will be much better if they post it here so we all could see..

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

You cut 3mm off the front of the upper and lower rear arm. That way you can adjust the wheel base at the rear. I did the mod and I like it. But it's not needed the R is great out the box.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Welcome to the 8th scene! The speed and handling of these cars will absolutely blow your mind when your pushing 60mph plus in 2 seconds or so.

azcau

iTrader: (1)

So I've got the early version of the 4R , the chassis has a slight twist due to an offcourse excursion . Do I replace it with the Mugen update chassis for about a million bucks or the RD Logics for about $60 off ebay . The RD looks to be lacking a fair bit of material around the engine area but the one piece engine mount should give it the required rigidity , Y/N ?

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

My opinion: get the Mugen optional chassis. The car was designed around it, so any after market chassis will just twist your learning curve with setups.

http://www.nitrohouse.com/options,_mrx-4.htm

Lil Paul

The MRX4-R is without question great out of the box. Its not perfect though. The shorten wheelbase modification is not to make the car better for everyone. It is meant for the driver who feels they need the car to rotate a lil better. Out of the box this chasis is one of the easiest 1/8th scales to drive fast. The sweet spot is wide, and the setup is forgiving. You dont need to be exact to make this car work. That is one of the highlights of this car. Some drivers are very very aggressive, and like their 1/8th scales to handle like a 1/12th scale, meaning very responsive. Therefore like anything else, when you shorten the wheelbase the car turns in a little better, and becomes slightly more agile. Others drivers want more stability, and dont like their car to be so responsive(read: twitchy). Now with that being said...on with the mod:

You cut the rear lower arms in front so they will slide forward on the hinge pin 3mm, therefore shortening the wheelbase by 3mm. That is it!!!! The problem is, you must with this move everything else associated with the rear arms so the geometry remains correct. So, you need to also cut the upper arms by 3mm, and shim the mounting point for the rear shocks by 3mm. I know guys who dont and run the shocks at a slight angle. That does work, but if you are anal like myself, you will shim it due to the fact the arms are 3mm farther forward than normal. Make sure you have no slop. Dremel with care, and even make the arms fit tight;they will loosen up after a couple of tanks. Also, do yourself a favor and cut extra lower arms for when you break. This mod is not hard, but takes a little bit of effort to get it done. I did it, and love it. Some have done it, and when back to stock. Please, Pooh, Steve, Mike S, feel free to correct or add.

GK

When doing this mod to rear arms, do you also shorten the front wheel base by moving the 3 mm spacer in front of the arm?

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

For the shocks you can use the mtx-3 front shock spacers or ho181d, caster clip the rear upper hinge pin and use the plastic round washer thats for the front lower wheel base adjustment on the rear lower.