Mugen MRX-4R
#152
Originally Posted by latemodel13
Hey aws7576 I have ran a ws7 in a on road car. Here is my suggestion. Get a short conical header and a 9886 pipe .then get a turbo plug underhead and find a head off a on-road novarossi based motor and you will be suprised how good it works.
#153
Most of you might know this already but I didn't...and found out the hard way so I thought I'd mention it so no one else makes the same mistake.
Before the main at the GLC this past weekend I changed the lower front left arm on my MRX4R because the suspension pin had been moving back a bit. The plastic that the set-screw goes in to hold the suspension pin in place must have been a bit stripped. I put on a new front left lower arm as part of my rebuild before the main. 30 minutes before the main my car is back together and I throw it on the tweak board and the bubble is slammed all the way to one side. I had no idea what I had put back together wrong but the only way to adjust it was with springs and sway bars. The car was a mess to try and drive in the main. I found out today talking to Mike S that the front lower arms on the MRX4R have a different shock mount location than the MRX4 arms and I had put on a MRX4 arm by mistake so I had different spring rates on the left and right sides. The part numbers are the same for the MRX4 and MRX4R front arms so you have to know to look for the difference if you may have old lower front arms in your parts supply (or hobby shops part supply). Anyway...most of you may have know this but maybe this will keep someone else from having the same problem.
Before the main at the GLC this past weekend I changed the lower front left arm on my MRX4R because the suspension pin had been moving back a bit. The plastic that the set-screw goes in to hold the suspension pin in place must have been a bit stripped. I put on a new front left lower arm as part of my rebuild before the main. 30 minutes before the main my car is back together and I throw it on the tweak board and the bubble is slammed all the way to one side. I had no idea what I had put back together wrong but the only way to adjust it was with springs and sway bars. The car was a mess to try and drive in the main. I found out today talking to Mike S that the front lower arms on the MRX4R have a different shock mount location than the MRX4 arms and I had put on a MRX4 arm by mistake so I had different spring rates on the left and right sides. The part numbers are the same for the MRX4 and MRX4R front arms so you have to know to look for the difference if you may have old lower front arms in your parts supply (or hobby shops part supply). Anyway...most of you may have know this but maybe this will keep someone else from having the same problem.
#154
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by dpdiehl
Most of you might know this already but I didn't...and found out the hard way so I thought I'd mention it so no one else makes the same mistake.
Before the main at the GLC this past weekend I changed the lower front left arm on my MRX4R because the suspension pin had been moving back a bit. The plastic that the set-screw goes in to hold the suspension pin in place must have been a bit stripped. I put on a new front left lower arm as part of my rebuild before the main. 30 minutes before the main my car is back together and I throw it on the tweak board and the bubble is slammed all the way to one side. I had no idea what I had put back together wrong but the only way to adjust it was with springs and sway bars. The car was a mess to try and drive in the main. I found out today talking to Mike S that the front lower arms on the MRX4R have a different shock mount location than the MRX4 arms and I had put on a MRX4 arm by mistake so I had different spring rates on the left and right sides. The part numbers are the same for the MRX4 and MRX4R front arms so you have to know to look for the difference if you may have old lower front arms in your parts supply (or hobby shops part supply). Anyway...most of you may have know this but maybe this will keep someone else from having the same problem.
Before the main at the GLC this past weekend I changed the lower front left arm on my MRX4R because the suspension pin had been moving back a bit. The plastic that the set-screw goes in to hold the suspension pin in place must have been a bit stripped. I put on a new front left lower arm as part of my rebuild before the main. 30 minutes before the main my car is back together and I throw it on the tweak board and the bubble is slammed all the way to one side. I had no idea what I had put back together wrong but the only way to adjust it was with springs and sway bars. The car was a mess to try and drive in the main. I found out today talking to Mike S that the front lower arms on the MRX4R have a different shock mount location than the MRX4 arms and I had put on a MRX4 arm by mistake so I had different spring rates on the left and right sides. The part numbers are the same for the MRX4 and MRX4R front arms so you have to know to look for the difference if you may have old lower front arms in your parts supply (or hobby shops part supply). Anyway...most of you may have know this but maybe this will keep someone else from having the same problem.
In future parts that are different will have a different part number from to stop this happening, example the new front uprights are HO139B, where as the old ones were HO139.
#155
Tech Adept
diehl, i did the same thing, i set up the car using the MRX4 arms and the car worked great, however , the first couple of days of practice i was running with one old and one new arm.(not a good idea).
also, if you check the rod ends on your shocks, you will notice that they have little grooves cut in them. this is caused from the MRX4R arms as the shock position is too far out and when you turn , the inside of the rim rubs against it.
the problem is solved by using the old arms.
steve
also, if you check the rod ends on your shocks, you will notice that they have little grooves cut in them. this is caused from the MRX4R arms as the shock position is too far out and when you turn , the inside of the rim rubs against it.
the problem is solved by using the old arms.
steve
#156
makes me feel a little better hearing I'm not the only one to make this mistake and end up with mis-matched arms. waste of a good opportunity though, basically dialing myself out of any chance of contention before the main even started.
On a brighter note....got to run the new MSR "Whip" body at the GLC. Even though the MSR "Whip" was a heavyweight version, it was still a definite improvement over the lightweight Dome body I had been using.
On a brighter note....got to run the new MSR "Whip" body at the GLC. Even though the MSR "Whip" was a heavyweight version, it was still a definite improvement over the lightweight Dome body I had been using.
#157
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by dpdiehl
makes me feel a little better hearing I'm not the only one to make this mistake and end up with mis-matched arms. waste of a good opportunity though, basically dialing myself out of any chance of contention before the main even started.
On a brighter note....got to run the new MSR "Whip" body at the GLC. Even though the MSR "Whip" was a heavyweight version, it was still a definite improvement over the lightweight Dome body I had been using.
On a brighter note....got to run the new MSR "Whip" body at the GLC. Even though the MSR "Whip" was a heavyweight version, it was still a definite improvement over the lightweight Dome body I had been using.
Any chance of posting a picture of the MSR bodyshell?
#158
Originally Posted by dpdiehl
makes me feel a little better hearing I'm not the only one to make this mistake and end up with mis-matched arms. waste of a good opportunity though, basically dialing myself out of any chance of contention before the main even started.
On a brighter note....got to run the new MSR "Whip" body at the GLC. Even though the MSR "Whip" was a heavyweight version, it was still a definite improvement over the lightweight Dome body I had been using.
On a brighter note....got to run the new MSR "Whip" body at the GLC. Even though the MSR "Whip" was a heavyweight version, it was still a definite improvement over the lightweight Dome body I had been using.
Do you have MSR weblinks ?
#159
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2003
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the msr body looks just like the dome but with only one cockpit other than that there pretty identical looking.
Last edited by racer x 1; 08-09-2006 at 09:57 AM.
#160
Tech Regular
I will post few pics of the MSR 1002 "The Whip" body later today.
#161
Tech Adept
i purchased 2 of the whip bodies at the GLC, they look pretty cool.
one thing i did notice , however, is the side walls are a little thin near the rear wheels.
im gonna try and reinforce it with some fibre tape and shoo goo.
anyone else have any suggestions??
steve
one thing i did notice , however, is the side walls are a little thin near the rear wheels.
im gonna try and reinforce it with some fibre tape and shoo goo.
anyone else have any suggestions??
steve
#162
Originally Posted by AKSHUN
i purchased 2 of the whip bodies at the GLC, they look pretty cool.
one thing i did notice , however, is the side walls are a little thin near the rear wheels.
im gonna try and reinforce it with some fibre tape and shoo goo.
anyone else have any suggestions??
steve
one thing i did notice , however, is the side walls are a little thin near the rear wheels.
im gonna try and reinforce it with some fibre tape and shoo goo.
anyone else have any suggestions??
steve
#163
Tech Regular
Here are you few pics of Mike Strack MSR Whip.
#164
Tech Master
iTrader: (92)
This is an awesome body and it's aeros were developed exclusively for the MRX4R...may fit other brands, but respectfully, "nobody cares." LOL Notice the cut-outs behind the front wheels and behind the front body posts. All functional. There are also other cut-outs, not visible. Can't wait to run mine.