Jastang

Like I said, I'm pretty new to RC and completely new to nitro. Here's the thing, I got this big box of RC stuff when my dad's neighbor got evicted. He just left it behind. I've been playing with the electric buggy that was in it and have turned it into a fun "Frankenstein" basher. But that's all just backstory.

There was also a nitro road car in the box, along with a track kit with fuel pump, plug heater and two starters. The foams on the car are chunked a bit (they are, I believe, HPI quick-release hubs). I believe the car is a descendant of something like an HPI R40, but it has more aluminum on it. It's a big car, too. I don't know what scale, but it dwarfs a 1/10 scale car. Again, just backstory.

As far as getting the motor running here's what's transpired: In the begining I was using fuel from this guys track kit as well as the plug heater. With the car not starting I'd held the heater on for quite a while with the dial at about 6 amps. I then found that the heater had fused to the plug. Nice. I drilled out the plug and heater from the inside of the head; managing not to touch the threads. So, no big deal. A couple days ago I pick up some fresh fuel, a new glow plug and new heater. I've picked up some tips and learned alot since my previous medlings, so I prime the crankcase and carb, check the glow plug before installing it, set the carb adjusting screws to "default" ranges. I start cranking on it. Nothing. No popping, no sputtering. No fuel being pulled through the lines. I had been told by my neighbor to plug the exhaust and crank it to pressurize the fuel tank and prime the fuel lines. Tried it. Nothing. Took the supply line clean off and tried it. No spillage, nothing. Put my hand around the exhaust tip and blew on it. Fuel spilled. Eureka! No cylinder pressure! No cylinder pressure?? I've had the head off and spun the flywheel, I could hear it sucking passed the valves and all. Something ain't right. Off with it's head! Again. I apply my handy little starter to the little lug sticking out of the crankcase. BZZZzzzz... Starter spin. Piston no move. WTF? Push starter on and cock it at an angle to bind it to the lug. Spinning starter. Spinning crankshaft!

Also, a sound I hadn't heard before. Kind of a "thumpa, thumpa." Hey, that sounds like an internal combustion engine! I'm getting somewhere!

So all the needle bearings fall out of the starter attachment. It's hosed. My friend tries to mount it to his starting platform, but the rubber wheel won't reach through aluminum bottom plate to touch the flywheel. So I say screw it! Literally! I crab my drill, chuck to the starting lug, flick it in reverse, apply plug heater and start spinning away. Yes, the "thumpa, thumpa" is nice. But how about some, "Bang, Bang!" Well, to make a long story longer, I never got any. I had the header off, could see fuel being blown out of the cylinder, had a hot glow plug and tried various arbitrary carb settings. I never got anything that sounded close to home.

So, I know this has been a bit long winded, but I have to ask, "Are all nitro motors this fickle?" I know I had some fundamental flaws in the beginning, but with my drill cranking that thing and fuel in the chamber, I feel like something should have happened. Any advise, feedback, hate-mail would be appreciated. This thing looks like it could really run, if it would RUN!!

spcards30

O.K. couple things, first, I use a drill to start my car also, but make sure that your drill has a torque setting. You want it to just barely be able to turn the engine without clicking, for example, if it clicks at 13 put it to 14, understand. This is done because if you hydra-lock the engine and it keeps being forced to turn you will shear the con rod right off of the crankshaft. Now the fun part, are you sure that those settings for the carb are right, what kind, and size of engine is it, what % nitro are you running, what glow plug are you using? An answer to these questions will help me help you. Here is where I would start if you don't know what kind of engine it is, back out the needles until they are flush with their housings, then turn them in 1 1/2 turns, this is going to be a very rich setting, it's a safe place to start. Also use a heat gun to heat the engine before starting, this will help no matter how warm it is where you live. Some engines are real stubborn to get started even when tuned perfectly, If you do have the right stock settings and it won't start, try going between richer and leaner. But answer those questions and we should be able to help ya out.

integra evan

iTrader: (1)

Also check for leaks in the fuel tank and fuel lines. There could be a hole or crack in either, causing too many airbubbles.

Jastang

Great! I wasn't sure that there would be much anyone could really suggest. First, my drill doesn't have a torque setting, so I will either have to get a new attachment for my starter or use this as an excuse to get a nice new cordless drill.

Second, no, I am absolutely not sure of the carb settings. The only guidance I had was from my neighbor (who has been into RC for a long time but runs mainly electric. He does have a T-Maxx.) He said to seat the screw and come out about 3 turns on the "full-throttle" screw.

Question: Should any throttle be used (typically) when trying to start? I am perhaps tainted by my experience with cars (as in passenger cars) and 2 stroke motorcycles. There's no choke on these and it's a different fuel alltogether.

Thirdly: The fuel is 20% nitro and 12% lubricant. (What the heck is the other 68%?)

I took a bit of video. All I had around was an old surveillance cam, but maybe someone can tell what exactly this thing is.

http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...nt=car_vid.flv

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Its cut with a few things. But the basic mixture contains 20% nitro.

There is also the low-speed needle. Make this flush with the throttle housing. This setting is on the throttle arm.

My main things that always cause a motor to not start is not a hot enough glow plug. Get a few fresh batteries. Dont sit there forever trying to start it , it will flood and wear the battery quick.

Make sure you prime the motor before the start by covering the exhaust with your finger and turning the motor over with no glow-igniter.

Then apply glow igniter and try to start. If it doesnt work , leave it 10 seconds then try again. If it doesnt work remove.

Next try to start it again work the needles a little bit...or try pinching the fuel line. Keep trying to start it for 10 seconds with it pinched. Then let go of the fuel line....even try pulling the throttle now.

Another thing to check is your glow-plug , you can put the glow-igniter to the plug and make sure its turning red. No need to do this much but its worth a check.

Another thing is if you have a local hobby shop and your spent trying. Take it in and see what they can do. Normally they are pretty quick to find the problems like these.

Jastang

Thanks alot. Those are the kind of little things I need to know. How long to hold the glow plug on and whatnot. I have a rechargeable heater, so I'll make sure it's got a good charge.

I won't be getting it running today. I found at least one thing that was preventing it from starting. The fuel nipple on the carburetor was turned so that it wasn't aligned with the hole in the mixture valve. (make sense?) That was a pretty obivious problem, so I aligned it and snugged it back down. It then began leaking between said fuel nipple and the seat on the carb. There was no washer between the two. I cut one out of some gasket material and it sealed. I then saw that the entire fuel intake part of the carb was loose from the rest of the body. I was just about to tighten the screws when I decided I'd true up the alignment of the fuel nipple to the mixture valve. It proceeded to break off in my hands. Excellent. I have no idea what kind of carburetor this is and no clue as to whether I can get that replacement part. Given the unknown age of the unit and that it's obviously brittle and leaky, I may just replace it with something a little more sturdy. I'm not going to be racing. If someone made an aluminum carb I'd buy it in a heartbeat. I don't dig all this plastic stuff. You can't trust it!

spcards30

I agree make sure your glow plug igniter is working properly, always use a new plug to test it, also I would go with a hotter plug. Idealy when tuned properly you don't need to hit the gas to start it or even keep it running (I had my engine burn a half tank at idle today cause my battery died so I just let it burn it up sitting at 215 degrees), but you might have to, don't give it full throttle though, just barely move it. I would probably also take it to a hobby shop, they will be able to show you what's going wrong.

Let us know if you have any more questions or if you find the answer?

Spread the knowledge it's the only way to beat this hobby....

1615danny

hi can any one please tell whats the best way to brake my rc engine in/ive been told to put it on bricks fill it up and let it run at idel untill the tank is empty do that again then.Then run it on half revs for four tanks,is this ok

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Jastang , can you post a photo of your engine and car. Ill help identify them for you and get you going the right place.

The holes dont need to be aligned. It goes around so itll pick it up.

--

Danny, Try searching for break-in threads. There are probably 1000 threads about the process. If you cant find them , pm me and Ill find some for you or will give you some personal advice on how to do it.

Take care.

1615danny

ok will do cheers

Jastang

Here's some pics. They're lousy quality. They're just grabs from the video posted above. But, if you don't feel like downloading the vid, well I hope these will do.

SavageSYNTH25

The car is a PRP (Power Racing) XR80, or the XR-8 RTR. The engine is their standard .21

www.happytimehobby.com

Use that link to find anything you need for the car.

Hope this helps!

drfritz

Ok, thee a few things that could be causing your problems, but with out the history of the car it will be a hit or miss finding what it is, any ways.
did you get new fuel, nitro fuel will go bad over time, if not buy some.
second you might think about tearing the carb apart and installing new o rings, they will dry out if the car has set for some time.
like some others have said install some new fuel tubing, it cheap and can cause all kinds of problems if it is bad.
pull the tank and check for leaks, soapy water works great with this, install you new fuel tubing, place the tank in the water, plug on end and blow, if you see ANY bubbles you have a leak and you will need to replace or repair.theres one more thing, did you have the header and pipe on the motor with the pressure line on? if not you will not get enough pressure in the tank to force the fuel in to the carb.

Jastang

Thanks for the great tips and info, and especially for the ID! Good to know where it came from.

I think I may have decided that this car is not really in my best interest to get back to proper order. Talking to some guys I've learned that the only tires that will be available will be foam and I could only run them on asphalt. I don't have such a place to run it and I'm not going racing just yet.

So far all I've bought for it are fuel, a glow plug and a heater, which of course I can keep. So I think I'll just put it up for sale for someone who will actually be able to utilize it.

I hope this doesn't come off as a slight to all the help you all have given. I'm learning more every day. I just don't think this car is for me right now.

1615danny

thanks she runs like a gem