proper way to break-in an engine????
12-18-2002, 11:05 PM
#16
I've done it both ways. I don't idle for 3 full tanks anymore. I did that for a couple engines and they didn't seem any better off for it.
I too have seen, read, and heard about umpteen different ways to break-in an engine. The one thing that I can apply from racing bikes I've decided to stick with - which is that during break-in you want to heat cycle the engine and you want to load the engine.
I idle about 3 minutes at a time heat cycling (allowing complete cool down) for maybe 10 minutes max (a little over 1 tank) and then begin running it rich at vary speeds with short bursts of WOT acceleration for another 2 tanks max- making sure to get the engine up to temp then cooling down completely before finally leaning it out to a satisfactory tune (not optimal race tune) until the time comes to run the piss out of it.
That's more than some do, less than many do.
I would like to believe that a long break-in makes for a better idling, more consistent engine, but I've yet to see any proof of it.
I too have seen, read, and heard about umpteen different ways to break-in an engine. The one thing that I can apply from racing bikes I've decided to stick with - which is that during break-in you want to heat cycle the engine and you want to load the engine.
I idle about 3 minutes at a time heat cycling (allowing complete cool down) for maybe 10 minutes max (a little over 1 tank) and then begin running it rich at vary speeds with short bursts of WOT acceleration for another 2 tanks max- making sure to get the engine up to temp then cooling down completely before finally leaning it out to a satisfactory tune (not optimal race tune) until the time comes to run the piss out of it.
That's more than some do, less than many do.
I would like to believe that a long break-in makes for a better idling, more consistent engine, but I've yet to see any proof of it.
12-19-2002, 02:14 AM
#17
Picco reccomend 15-20 minutes of break in. That equates to 3-4 tanks on a rallycross buggy, or about 3-5 with a 1/10th nitro.
1st tank idling then lean the top out about 1/8th, then successive tanks on track driving slowly leaning the top out by that 1/8th each time.
I've now got a G1 that idles for years, and has a top end surpassed by only C4s and C5s!
1st tank idling then lean the top out about 1/8th, then successive tanks on track driving slowly leaning the top out by that 1/8th each time.
I've now got a G1 that idles for years, and has a top end surpassed by only C4s and C5s!
12-19-2002, 06:50 AM
#18
Per the instruction with my Sirio engine. Idle for 15 minutes and then you are fine to race tune it. Everyone has there own way to run in an engine. I think the words "break in" are really for the old type ringed engines. You should "run in" your new ABC/ACC engine at real world temp. IE 200 degrees. I use to spend all day breaking in my engines and they would only be fast for 2-3 gallons. All of my engines in the last year I have used the fast is fast method and they last me all year. I have done a collary .12, Sirio .12, Nova .21 SBK, 3 O.S. .21 o1, 2 Nova .21 CLB's & 2 nova .12 MT12. They are all still running and they are all very fast.
12-19-2002, 08:16 AM
#19
Tech Elite
Drive it like you stole it method of breaking
I think someone went to a National race and saw some Pro (sponsered) Drivers installing new engines and going out and racing them. This is fine if you get your engines for free, which most of us don't. So some kind of break-in schedule should be followed. It's YOUR engine, not anyone elses.
12-19-2002, 08:36 AM
#20
Tech Elite
TDC and after-run oil
Newbie;
Take the glow plug out and watch the piston through the hole. Just make sure that it's at the bottom of the sleeve. (doesn't have to exact) Put around 5 drops of after-run oil in the carb and turn the engine over rapidly to spread the oil around. a few drops in the glow plug hole wouldn't hurt either since you have it out now anyways.
If you have a starter box then you can skip the oil in the glow plug hole as the starter box will spin the engine fast enough to spread bring the oil into the cylinder.
If you ALWAYS use the after-run oil and avoid overheating your engine, there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to get 8-10 gallons of fuel before a rebuild. (with an ABC piston & sleeve)
Take the glow plug out and watch the piston through the hole. Just make sure that it's at the bottom of the sleeve. (doesn't have to exact) Put around 5 drops of after-run oil in the carb and turn the engine over rapidly to spread the oil around. a few drops in the glow plug hole wouldn't hurt either since you have it out now anyways.
If you have a starter box then you can skip the oil in the glow plug hole as the starter box will spin the engine fast enough to spread bring the oil into the cylinder.
If you ALWAYS use the after-run oil and avoid overheating your engine, there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to get 8-10 gallons of fuel before a rebuild. (with an ABC piston & sleeve)
12-19-2002, 09:00 AM
#21
I have never been to any national race. I have been around R/C engines for 16 years. I fly airplanes and race cars. When I first buy my new car engines I disassemble the engine and check for little metal shavings and any enperfections. After I clean everything up I reassemble the engine and put some Marvel Mystery Oil down the glow plug hole and down the carb. I then put the engine in the car and let it idle, giving it some gas every now and then for one full tank. I let the engine cool completely, then I go out and race my engine. My engines never run over 230 degrees and they are very fast and last a long time. Like I said there are many different ways, but I have found that spending all day breaking in an engine does not make it last longer or run faster.
12-19-2002, 09:14 AM
#22
Tech Fanatic
to break-in engine i richen both needles and set throttle to 50% on radio start the engine and drive car not quite like it stole it but i do drive fast set temp to 200 and finish tank then let cool with piston away from tdc like popsracer rec repeat process for 8-10 tanks and open throttle to 100 and tune for max speed this works extemely well my engines are fast
rccaraction recommendes a similiar procedure doing 3 min cycles for 35-45 min the best part is i get to play instead of watching engine run
rccaraction recommendes a similiar procedure doing 3 min cycles for 35-45 min the best part is i get to play instead of watching engine run
12-19-2002, 11:51 AM
#23
breaking in an engine
What i do is follow the instructions!
On my last engine i got (team sts mt12), they said just to run it rich and thats it! So i let it idle for 2 tanks with wheels off the ground. Next i drove it around kinda hard for 4 more tanks gradually leaning the main out. You always want to see lots of blue smoke while breaking it in. For the first 2 tanks you want to see a little unburned fuel come out the pipe. BTW there is no certain way to breakin and engine so follow the instructions that came with it if u have some. If not keep it really rich for a while then gradually lean it out. The purpose is to wear-in the piston.
On my last engine i got (team sts mt12), they said just to run it rich and thats it! So i let it idle for 2 tanks with wheels off the ground. Next i drove it around kinda hard for 4 more tanks gradually leaning the main out. You always want to see lots of blue smoke while breaking it in. For the first 2 tanks you want to see a little unburned fuel come out the pipe. BTW there is no certain way to breakin and engine so follow the instructions that came with it if u have some. If not keep it really rich for a while then gradually lean it out. The purpose is to wear-in the piston.
12-19-2002, 01:53 PM
#24
The primary thing to remember with breaking in a motor is that there are NO rings in these motors, the piston and the cylinder must mate to each other to form a good seal.
This means metal to metal contact, which is bad, right? Well, no, not necessarily. If you take it slowly, with plenty of lubrication, it isn't bad. It's actually quite beneficial since you can get a nearly perfect mating between piston and cylinder.
In all cases, and from every long term veteran that I know and talk to, the key word is patience. Take it slowly. Shoot, it doesn't hurt to run 6 tanks through, even though 4 would do okay and 2 would probably work in a pinch.
The Pros who grab a motor, stick it in and then race it - well, you only see the end result of what their motors are going through. The motor builders (Rossi, Picco, etc.) use a static breakin bench to break in the motors before they ever get to the race - cut down on time used at the track. They've already had several tanks of fuel run through them and they're ready to go. (example - http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=150 - yeah, it's for .15 and .21 but you get the idea)
Best bet - run factory settings (original) without going more than half throttle except for a few blips to clear the chamber and then only just for a blip - for two tanks. Slowly add more throttle for two more tanks. That makes 4.
At the fifth tank, gradually lean it to racing trim. I usually do that through the fifth and sixth tanks.
It takes a bit of extra time to do it through all 6 tanks, but heck, motors are expensive and it can't hurt to take some extra time for that one piece that makes you go real fast? Right?
This means metal to metal contact, which is bad, right? Well, no, not necessarily. If you take it slowly, with plenty of lubrication, it isn't bad. It's actually quite beneficial since you can get a nearly perfect mating between piston and cylinder.
In all cases, and from every long term veteran that I know and talk to, the key word is patience. Take it slowly. Shoot, it doesn't hurt to run 6 tanks through, even though 4 would do okay and 2 would probably work in a pinch.
The Pros who grab a motor, stick it in and then race it - well, you only see the end result of what their motors are going through. The motor builders (Rossi, Picco, etc.) use a static breakin bench to break in the motors before they ever get to the race - cut down on time used at the track. They've already had several tanks of fuel run through them and they're ready to go. (example - http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=150 - yeah, it's for .15 and .21 but you get the idea)
Best bet - run factory settings (original) without going more than half throttle except for a few blips to clear the chamber and then only just for a blip - for two tanks. Slowly add more throttle for two more tanks. That makes 4.
At the fifth tank, gradually lean it to racing trim. I usually do that through the fifth and sixth tanks.
It takes a bit of extra time to do it through all 6 tanks, but heck, motors are expensive and it can't hurt to take some extra time for that one piece that makes you go real fast? Right?
12-19-2002, 04:38 PM
#25
Tech Elite
Hey Boomer;
I think they sent your copy of Rev-up to MY house.
We used to be rivals when we raced at Showtime together.
I think they sent your copy of Rev-up to MY house.
We used to be rivals when we raced at Showtime together.
12-19-2002, 05:15 PM
#26
for those who know how to run in an engine in they own way. keep doing it. for those who dont, simply follow the factory advice. 
12-20-2002, 04:06 AM
#27
Wow - now that is some solid advice manticore. You summed it up perfectly and did it with less than 30 words. I need to take lessons
12-20-2002, 08:43 AM
#28
Originally posted by popsracer
Hey Boomer;
I think they sent your copy of Rev-up to MY house.
We used to be rivals when we raced at Showtime together.
Hey Boomer;
I think they sent your copy of Rev-up to MY house.
We used to be rivals when we raced at Showtime together.
for those who know how to run in an engine in they own way. keep doing it. for those who dont, simply follow the factory advice.
12-20-2002, 09:11 AM
#29
Tech Elite
On it's way
Boomer;
It's on it's way. I sent it in a box full of Bricks, Postage Due: $365.45
I'll come up and say HI next time I see you at Revelation.
It's on it's way. I sent it in a box full of Bricks, Postage Due: $365.45
I'll come up and say HI next time I see you at Revelation.
12-20-2002, 09:32 AM
#30
Originally posted by Boomer
I wouldn't be surprised! Give it back!!!!
And for those who like to get another perspective or opinion, keep asking your questions. Manticore may not answer, but Pops, Patella, Rajun, and the rest of us will keep answering!
I wouldn't be surprised! Give it back!!!!
And for those who like to get another perspective or opinion, keep asking your questions. Manticore may not answer, but Pops, Patella, Rajun, and the rest of us will keep answering!