Eudardo, any manufacturer will be fine .. I bought mine a long time ago for the 710 and now I use them in the 720. Are you sure you want to do this? You can go crazy you know ...
OK, if you insist, here are the things you can do :-
- LiPo battery (I've used the VXR in the 710 and therefore it fits the 720)
- use the LCG chassis (not the SPP)
- change the main shaft to a Ti one
- use an Al one for the mid-shaft
- DO NOT use any Al pulleys or the radio bracket, or the front ARB holder
- change all screws to Ti of course
- change all ball joints to Ti ones
- don't use the roll-over handle
- use teflon adjusting nuts
- don't use the radio cover, use only the bracket and tape your Rx to it
- use ceramic bearings
- use carbon
- the lightweight version of pulley adapters
- use carbon pivot pins (you can't buy these ready made though)
- use Al brake disc (or a carbon fibre one)
- use Ti or Al turnbuckles
- use rear ball diff with ceramic balls (not geared diff)
- use a locked front one-way
- use a smaller/lighter heatsink on your engine
- use Futaba 9550 servos
- use ONE coat of paint on your shell!
Of course there's more
but when I did most of the above to my 710, I got it down to under 1400gms, with PT, small tyres, no fuel and no shell on which is illegal for normal racing.
OK, OK, I used Al screws for those phillip head ones.
If you are racing on ROAR/IFMAR/EFRA rules and only want get the car to just about legal, I find that just with the LiPo and Ti screws, the 720 is already under 1725gms (with PT, tyres and shell).
I hate to do this because they caused me no end of aggro in the past but RC Mushroom has tons of Ti/Al bits
you can choose from. (p/s: sorry, I got lazy and just used "titanium" in the search so you'll see other parts which are NOT actually ti, just ti colour.)
Lastly, I like Speedmind Ti screws, their heads seem to last longer than the Take-Off and Xenon Racing ones.