1/18th Nitro Touring....Xray NT18
02-25-2006, 11:33 PM
#32
I would LOVE to get me one of those... I seen them before this thread started and was going to start one, but I started one elsewhere and I got flamed by electric guys.... <groan> shoulda done it some of the car threads are the highest traffic on this forum kinda feel like I missed the boat 
do they really run for 15 mins to a tank - thats IMPRESSIVE guys on other forum claim that the electric car this is based on whill whump it with li-poly and mamba brushless - how do you guys think they will compare?
do they really run for 15 mins to a tank - thats IMPRESSIVE guys on other forum claim that the electric car this is based on whill whump it with li-poly and mamba brushless - how do you guys think they will compare?
02-25-2006, 11:43 PM
#33
This car is simply one of the coolest things I've had. Very simple to build, great instructions, and I am overall very pleased on the quality of the car. It's been cold up here, so I haven't gotten around to breaking in the engine. Trinity has a 5 cell 2/3 AAA receiver pack that fits the car very nicely. I also managed to grab a Penguin R/C graphite chassis, moved the diffs over to it...and tranformed it into a M18 until it gets a bit warmer. For the price of the NT18 plus about $50-$60, you can have both the NT18 and M18.
Does anyone have problems with the Ferrari body being a bit cumbersome? I think Xray needs to realize the electric bodies does not fit the nitro version well.
Does anyone have problems with the Ferrari body being a bit cumbersome? I think Xray needs to realize the electric bodies does not fit the nitro version well.
02-26-2006, 06:57 AM
#34
Tech Adept
NT18
I had the same issue. One of my servo was DOA, had to change it. ALso I found that the way the throttle servo is been laid out will be problem when the body shell is on. When I full throttle it hits the body shell.
Does anyone knows if any HPI 1/18 body shell fits?
Does anyone knows if any HPI 1/18 body shell fits?
02-26-2006, 11:00 AM
#36
Originally Posted by superon
I had the same issue. One of my servo was DOA, had to change it. ALso I found that the way the throttle servo is been laid out will be problem when the body shell is on. When I full throttle it hits the body shell.
Does anyone knows if any HPI 1/18 body shell fits?
Does anyone knows if any HPI 1/18 body shell fits?
02-26-2006, 11:10 AM
#37
You are going to see a variety of break-in recomendations. Engines vary a bit in the way they react to different methods. Extended idle break-ins are generally not recomended. My approach has been to idle (rich) for a few minutes then, drive at rich settings & faily low rpm for 3 tanks or so. Then, lean to just rich of optimum settings for a few more tanks.
The power output seems to be fairly high. Even with the tall stock gearing, it accellerates at brisk rate. The stock gearing seems suited to a typical 1/10 track size. A smaller clutch bell should be use on a track with 50' or less for a straight.
The power output seems to be fairly high. Even with the tall stock gearing, it accellerates at brisk rate. The stock gearing seems suited to a typical 1/10 track size. A smaller clutch bell should be use on a track with 50' or less for a straight.
02-26-2006, 11:59 AM
#40
Originally Posted by duneland
You are going to see a variety of break-in recomendations. Engines vary a bit in the way they react to different methods. Extended idle break-ins are generally not recomended. My approach has been to idle (rich) for a few minutes then, drive at rich settings & faily low rpm for 3 tanks or so. Then, lean to just rich of optimum settings for a few more tanks.
The power output seems to be fairly high. Even with the tall stock gearing, it accellerates at brisk rate. The stock gearing seems suited to a typical 1/10 track size. A smaller clutch bell should be use on a track with 50' or less for a straight.
The power output seems to be fairly high. Even with the tall stock gearing, it accellerates at brisk rate. The stock gearing seems suited to a typical 1/10 track size. A smaller clutch bell should be use on a track with 50' or less for a straight.
02-26-2006, 12:20 PM
#41
Harshguy,
Long idle break-ins are not likely to do any harm (IMO). It is an approach that has fallen out of favor with most racers.
macnkitty,
The servos included in the combo package, are hitec. Not enough precision to suit me. We have had a lot of centering issues with the little hitecs.
I recomend the version without electronics. Futaba 3101 is a good steering choice. It is not as fast as the hitec but returns to center. KO has a new digital for 1/18. I would like to give it a try.
Long idle break-ins are not likely to do any harm (IMO). It is an approach that has fallen out of favor with most racers.
macnkitty,
The servos included in the combo package, are hitec. Not enough precision to suit me. We have had a lot of centering issues with the little hitecs.
I recomend the version without electronics. Futaba 3101 is a good steering choice. It is not as fast as the hitec but returns to center. KO has a new digital for 1/18. I would like to give it a try.
02-26-2006, 01:06 PM
#42
Originally Posted by duneland
Harshguy,
Long idle break-ins are not likely to do any harm (IMO). It is an approach that has fallen out of favor with most racers.
macnkitty,
The servos included in the combo package, are hitec. Not enough precision to suit me. We have had a lot of centering issues with the little hitecs.
I recomend the version without electronics. Futaba 3101 is a good steering choice. It is not as fast as the hitec but returns to center. KO has a new digital for 1/18. I would like to give it a try.
Long idle break-ins are not likely to do any harm (IMO). It is an approach that has fallen out of favor with most racers.
macnkitty,
The servos included in the combo package, are hitec. Not enough precision to suit me. We have had a lot of centering issues with the little hitecs.
I recomend the version without electronics. Futaba 3101 is a good steering choice. It is not as fast as the hitec but returns to center. KO has a new digital for 1/18. I would like to give it a try.
...I ended up purchsing a couple of JR digital servos and those work perfectly, and fast to boot (especially with the 5 cell pack).
02-27-2006, 12:46 AM
#43
Tech Adept
Servo placing
For those who have issues with NT18 throttle hitting body shell, try changing the throttle servo direction and remember to trim the spring or change to a pen spring...or else end up frying the throttle servo.
Also I bought a HPI Lamborgini body shell and seems to best fit the NT18. The rest of them are too small even at 150mm.
I hope XRAY can start coming out with bigger and nicer fitting body shells.
Also I bought a HPI Lamborgini body shell and seems to best fit the NT18. The rest of them are too small even at 150mm.
I hope XRAY can start coming out with bigger and nicer fitting body shells.
02-27-2006, 03:10 PM
#44
I notice that you can ajust the downstop for this car but wondering if the droop gauge for the 1/10th car will work for the NT18 
03-06-2006, 12:51 PM
#45
There's a good short and sweet review of the car over at 3hobby.net complete with two videos showing it in action. Look in the "Forums Center" in the middle of the front page.