Tekno NB48.4 Thread
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#154
#2 don't crash
#3 new tubing and or check the fuel tubing for length also make sure tubing is not bent in an upward radius in the middle between nipple and clung. If it is rotate tubing until clung hits top of tank. when upside down.
#155
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
1, I get it but I shouldn't have to. I'm already on a 7.5 to 8 min strategy. The car will easily run 9 at most tracks.
2, lmao, I'll try that.
3. It's essentially a new car, 4 race days and about a gallon through it. Tubing is the factory piece, correct length, not kinked, seems to be the same no matter how I clock it. I'll mess with it some more though.
#156
Thanks, I've had the same thought's...
1, I get it but I shouldn't have to. I'm already on a 7.5 to 8 min strategy. The car will easily run 9 at most tracks.
2, lmao, I'll try that.
3. It's essentially a new car, 4 race days and about a gallon through it. Tubing is the factory piece, correct length, not kinked, seems to be the same no matter how I clock it. I'll mess with it some more though.
1, I get it but I shouldn't have to. I'm already on a 7.5 to 8 min strategy. The car will easily run 9 at most tracks.
2, lmao, I'll try that.
3. It's essentially a new car, 4 race days and about a gallon through it. Tubing is the factory piece, correct length, not kinked, seems to be the same no matter how I clock it. I'll mess with it some more though.
You can try replacing the inner fuel tube with a softer one if needed (it can be tricky for some people) but since fuel tubing tends to get softer after some use I am sure it will be perfectly fine as soon as it gets a bit softer...
#157
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Thanks, I've had the same thought's...
1, I get it but I shouldn't have to. I'm already on a 7.5 to 8 min strategy. The car will easily run 9 at most tracks.
2, lmao, I'll try that.
3. It's essentially a new car, 4 race days and about a gallon through it. Tubing is the factory piece, correct length, not kinked, seems to be the same no matter how I clock it. I'll mess with it some more though.
1, I get it but I shouldn't have to. I'm already on a 7.5 to 8 min strategy. The car will easily run 9 at most tracks.
2, lmao, I'll try that.
3. It's essentially a new car, 4 race days and about a gallon through it. Tubing is the factory piece, correct length, not kinked, seems to be the same no matter how I clock it. I'll mess with it some more though.
#158
Evening chaps, I have just picked a Kit up.
In no rush to build.. however I'd like to ask a question ( I know it will get asked ALL the time and it really boils down to personal preference / how deep your pockets are )
But what engine would you guys recommend?
I'm not a pro racer or even a club racer (possibly next year!)
So I don't want to splash out on an all singing, all dancing $500 race tuned engine, but at the same time I don't want to put a RTR motor in such a nice chassis,
I'd like something reliable, with a decent ammount of poke, that isn't going to break the bank, budget of around $300....
Any suggestions?
Much appreciated
Nick
In no rush to build.. however I'd like to ask a question ( I know it will get asked ALL the time and it really boils down to personal preference / how deep your pockets are )
But what engine would you guys recommend?
I'm not a pro racer or even a club racer (possibly next year!)
So I don't want to splash out on an all singing, all dancing $500 race tuned engine, but at the same time I don't want to put a RTR motor in such a nice chassis,
I'd like something reliable, with a decent ammount of poke, that isn't going to break the bank, budget of around $300....
Any suggestions?
Much appreciated
Nick
#159
Evening guys - I've just picked one of these up, however looking for some opinions on motor choice.
I'm no pro racer, I'm not even racing club level this year (looking into it for next year!)
I appreciate this question will get asked an awful lot and it really boils down to personal preference / how deep your pockets are.... but i'm lost as to what engine to use.
I don't want to be spending $500 on a top notch race engine as I just can't justify spending that much/my skills don't require such an engine!
However.... I also appreciate it's a top quality chassis so at the same time I don't want to stick some tosh RTR bag of crap in there!!
I'm not brand picky, I've ran a few picco's over the years but open to any suggestions.
Giving myself a limit of around $300.... what would you guys recommend for me?
Something that still has decent power and overall good relability.
Cheers guys.
Nick.
I'm no pro racer, I'm not even racing club level this year (looking into it for next year!)
I appreciate this question will get asked an awful lot and it really boils down to personal preference / how deep your pockets are.... but i'm lost as to what engine to use.
I don't want to be spending $500 on a top notch race engine as I just can't justify spending that much/my skills don't require such an engine!
However.... I also appreciate it's a top quality chassis so at the same time I don't want to stick some tosh RTR bag of crap in there!!
I'm not brand picky, I've ran a few picco's over the years but open to any suggestions.
Giving myself a limit of around $300.... what would you guys recommend for me?
Something that still has decent power and overall good relability.
Cheers guys.
Nick.
#160
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Evening guys - I've just picked one of these up, however looking for some opinions on motor choice.
I'm no pro racer, I'm not even racing club level this year (looking into it for next year!)
I appreciate this question will get asked an awful lot and it really boils down to personal preference / how deep your pockets are.... but i'm lost as to what engine to use.
I don't want to be spending $500 on a top notch race engine as I just can't justify spending that much/my skills don't require such an engine!
However.... I also appreciate it's a top quality chassis so at the same time I don't want to stick some tosh RTR bag of crap in there!!
I'm not brand picky, I've ran a few picco's over the years but open to any suggestions.
Giving myself a limit of around $300.... what would you guys recommend for me?
Something that still has decent power and overall good relability.
Cheers guys.
Nick.
I'm no pro racer, I'm not even racing club level this year (looking into it for next year!)
I appreciate this question will get asked an awful lot and it really boils down to personal preference / how deep your pockets are.... but i'm lost as to what engine to use.
I don't want to be spending $500 on a top notch race engine as I just can't justify spending that much/my skills don't require such an engine!
However.... I also appreciate it's a top quality chassis so at the same time I don't want to stick some tosh RTR bag of crap in there!!
I'm not brand picky, I've ran a few picco's over the years but open to any suggestions.
Giving myself a limit of around $300.... what would you guys recommend for me?
Something that still has decent power and overall good relability.
Cheers guys.
Nick.
If your dead set on the 300.00 budget, then ProTek released a club racer engine that would fit your needs. The LS5 would allow you to get your feet wet and race while saving money for the BLOK power plant.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-euro-ls5-.21-long-stroke-5port-competition-offroad-engine-ptk-3500/p576744
#162
Tech Rookie
slodsm it's a 34mm flywheel
#164
Got mine all built up last week tried an old novarossi p5 but I just could not get it to fire up on my starter box. Unsure on whether my pack just hasn't got the power to start it. I have an old SMD starter box and was wondering what boxes people are using with their nb48? I had to shim the motors and wheel up in my box in order to get proper contact with the flywheel.
Has anybody else found that the bolts that secure the wing to the mount are a pain in the ass? I didn't do mine up 'tight' as such and even so when I tried to remove the wing the little nyloc nuts simply spin in the plastic and don't 'lock' like they should , has anyone else found this?
Cheers,
Nick.
Has anybody else found that the bolts that secure the wing to the mount are a pain in the ass? I didn't do mine up 'tight' as such and even so when I tried to remove the wing the little nyloc nuts simply spin in the plastic and don't 'lock' like they should , has anyone else found this?
Cheers,
Nick.
#165
Tech Elite
iTrader: (105)
Got mine all built up last week tried an old novarossi p5 but I just could not get it to fire up on my starter box. Unsure on whether my pack just hasn't got the power to start it. I have an old SMD starter box and was wondering what boxes people are using with their nb48? I had to shim the motors and wheel up in my box in order to get proper contact with the flywheel.
Has anybody else found that the bolts that secure the wing to the mount are a pain in the ass? I didn't do mine up 'tight' as such and even so when I tried to remove the wing the little nyloc nuts simply spin in the plastic and don't 'lock' like they should , has anyone else found this?
Cheers,
Nick.
Has anybody else found that the bolts that secure the wing to the mount are a pain in the ass? I didn't do mine up 'tight' as such and even so when I tried to remove the wing the little nyloc nuts simply spin in the plastic and don't 'lock' like they should , has anyone else found this?
Cheers,
Nick.