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Old 06-23-2007, 11:25 AM   #1441
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Originally Posted by magbarn View Post
I recently got a MBX5R kit and I've been slowly been putting it together. Reading previous posts I built the diffs without the 3mm spider o-rings and dumped thick amounts of mobil 1 grease on the diff gaskets and 5mm orings. Diffs now feel smooth. However, when I install them in the diff case with the pinion gear, it's not so smooth. The manual doesn't call for any shims and the kit didn't seem to come with any so is it supposed to feel a little "gritty?" Also I ended up using red loctite on the set screws in the CV driveshafts did I screw up? Thanks in advance!

I have found that sometimes the diff housing halfs are over tightened, back the four long screws off and see how it feels, if it is better, just dont crank em down, after I lossened mine, i ran em "snug" looser than I would normally, and have not had any issues with them since. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:37 AM   #1442
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The Red Locktite might be an issue later, I use blue, But the Muge hardly breaks, so that is a good thing!
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:14 PM   #1443
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Fly, Ouch 5 servos. Well I ran the jammin for 2 seasons and liked it. I needed a new car and wanted to try something different, I thought hard about the losi and decided to go with the 5R for 2 reasons. 1. servo issue had me a bit nervous. and 2. I wanted to be different. Everyone at my local track's now are all losi. there are only a few other cars. 3 things I like better on the 5r over the jammin, 1. lands big jumps better, 2. handles rough stuff better. 3. I like some of the tuning adjustments the R has over the jammin. I think the jammin is a good car I had great luck with mine, I also think they are a very even car as far as performance but with the 5R getting the edge on the above 3 things. My jammin always rotated through corners good and so does the 5R.
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Old 06-23-2007, 07:55 PM   #1444
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Default thanks lads

Thanks guys for all the input, this forum and thread has been very valuable as i cannot get any worth while info on the forums over here.

I cannot remember the size of the track but the best times from the best drivers at the club come in around 47 to 49 seconds a lap, the straight is about 160 feet long if i remember correctly, the dirt jumps are not great right now and punish the buggy`s really bad.

My problem with cornering is mostly mid to corner exit, i thought i might just be throttle happy as i have only raced twice at the track and as Tony said, maybe i`m just too used to running on grass.As for tyres, i know that crimefighters in m2 compound are very popular on dirt but they just do`nt seem to work for the guys that tried them, turbo rats, losi step pins or directionals seem to be the first choice.The track is very low grip and at the end of the day when its time for the finals it gets extremely dusty, i also think i would get lost trying to choose a tyre for a wet track.

Thanks to everyone here on this thread for all the input, i have really enjoyed reading the posts, also a special thank you to Tony for getting back to me so fast with all the set ups and info.
Cheers.Roy
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Old 06-24-2007, 01:30 AM   #1445
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Default Servo.

Hi all, currently I have 2 servos which is Hitec 645MG = 10kg and
Ace1013 = 13kg. I need advise on Hitec 645Mg should put on MBX5 Prospec or GS SUT steering? One is buggy and another one is truggy....Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-29-2007, 02:15 AM   #1446
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Thanks Tony ill give it a go, is there any chance this thread could be merged with the 5R thread this one keeps getting lost and its quite useful TBH
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Old 06-29-2007, 07:32 AM   #1447
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If i were you i would put the 13kg ACE servo in the truggy just because of the big tires, but i know for sure that you will also get great results with the hitec, because i personaly use the hitec myself. It is fast and very durable. I guess it really doesnt matter which one you put in.
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Old 06-29-2007, 07:55 AM   #1448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V for Victory View Post
If i were you i would put the 13kg ACE servo in the truggy just because of the big tires, but i know for sure that you will also get great results with the hitec, because i personaly use the hitec myself. It is fast and very durable. I guess it really doesnt matter which one you put in.
Hi, thanks for the advise. By the way I do like your method. Ace in truggy.....Thanks.
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Old 07-06-2007, 05:42 AM   #1449
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I recently purchased a used MBX5. When I took apart the front end I noticed that the lower arms were a different width where the inner hinge pin slides through. The RH arm had a 2mm shim to change the wheelbase but the LH arm was wider by 2mm and does not allow for any adjustment. The arms are identical other than this measurement. Would this arm be from an older model?
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Old 07-06-2007, 06:54 AM   #1450
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One arm is a very old version.
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:51 AM   #1451
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Correct, Mugen has made several revisions to the front arms:

1] Standard MBX5
2] ProSpec with 2mm shim
3] Changed shape for more steering
4] Changed webbing from / to a X for more strength
5] Revised plastic consistency
6] MBX5R arms (allow more droop)
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Old 07-08-2007, 02:57 PM   #1452
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Thanks guys. Next question. What is the difference between the offroad .21 carbs and the onroad .21 carbs (Novarossi) ? The offroad carb body is plastic and the onroad is aluminum but what are the actual performance differences? At one time I heard that the plastic body was to stop the fuel from being heated as it entered the motor. We generally ran the on-road motors hotter so to me it doesn't make sense that they would have the aluminum body.
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:49 PM   #1453
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What's a good oil weight front and back to start off with the prospec? Here's some pics of the track I'll be running on next http://shortrac.com/images/2007%20FT...line/index.htm
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Old 07-08-2007, 10:49 PM   #1454
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I would start with 5-7-2 and go from there.
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:04 AM   #1455
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Sorry, I wasn't specific in my last post..
Was looking for good starting point on the the shock oils.
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