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Old 04-20-2007, 02:54 PM   #1321
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I've heard of a number of people doing that very thing on the Losi cars. The gear mesh is one thing I'm still trying to get used to hearing. I'm used to 64 pitch, super narrow, silent gears of an electric on road car. Big huge metal 32 pitch gears just sound so loud to me. Even when adjusted right. Do you think the taller ratio, pinion to spur, would quiet it down or just limit the wear a bit?
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Old 04-20-2007, 03:46 PM   #1322
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I would think it would just give a better mesh although now the mesh it going to be worse in the diff. I guess the differnece being is the diff is not going to flex as much so i can stay more consistent. I was looking at the new RC Car action last night, there are a lot of little things about the RC8 that are cool. Thats also what i like about the MBX5R. It may not be ground breaking or anything but very well though out. Neither company tried to make a radical new design just to say they did.
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Old 04-23-2007, 07:54 PM   #1323
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BY the way guys i know some of you were loking for R's. I was at Revalation today and he had 2 in stock. I had 2 pick up some springs and he had some of the Mugen pit mats. I know it is just a iece of carpet but i still think they look cool! So anybody got any helpful hints for changing dif oil. Shocks are don and now on to the diffs. I want to double up the gaskets like i am hearing about and get some of the bigger O rings inside so i dont have to worry abut leaks.
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Old 04-23-2007, 10:21 PM   #1324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fear_of_Midgets
How can you tell if you have the old or new style Tony?
If you buy them they'll have the new part number with the B at the end on the package. If you have the MBX5R, then they came with the car stock. But if you have the MBX5T or older MBX5, they will be the E0109 front uprights and not the new MBX5R E0109B front uprights. I'll check the actual uprights tomorrow though and see if they have any markings on them to help identify the version though.
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Old 04-23-2007, 10:29 PM   #1325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcmerf
BY the way guys i know some of you were loking for R's. I was at Revalation today and he had 2 in stock. I had 2 pick up some springs and he had some of the Mugen pit mats. I know it is just a iece of carpet but i still think they look cool! So anybody got any helpful hints for changing dif oil. Shocks are don and now on to the diffs. I want to double up the gaskets like i am hearing about and get some of the bigger O rings inside so i dont have to worry abut leaks.
Pick up the "diff dunker" from any shop that sells GMK Supply stuff and then hit Home Depot for some Naptha. Pour the Naptha in a baby food jar and you can keep it in your pit box, tool box, work bench, etc. Then take the diff apart, put the parts in the diff dunker, swirl around in the jar of Naptha for a few seconds and they'll come out like brandy spanking new

Be sure to replace the o-rings in the outdrives and re-grease the o-rings, outdrives and shim behind the o-ring with a good quality synthetic grease (Mugen Super Grease, Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, etc). GMK Supply also sells some really nice plastic syringes that you can fill with grease (or buy them pre-filled with Mobil 1 synthetic grease).

When you re-assemble the diffs, use 3x12mm flat head screws, not the 3x8mm flat head screws the car comes with stock (and in the instruction manual). The 8mm length is too short to get a good amount of torque on the screws in the cups to really seal the gaskets tight (regardless of if you use one or two gaskets).

Best regards,
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Old 04-23-2007, 10:31 PM   #1326
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No more purple ....Hoo-ray! ....LOL



I built my new Mugen starter box with the HT Batteries HT-500 LiPo. The battery is a 4 cell LiPo (14.8 volts) and only weighs 212 grams. With the pack neatly installed in the Mugen box and the extra plug gone, the box only weighs 3 lbs, 10.7 oz's. You can keep the boat anchor chrome top boxes....LOL

The box totally rips with this battery in it versus the two 3,000mah NiMh stick packs I used to run in the old purple boxes.



FYI...

The HT Batteries HT-210 1200mah LiPo pack (7.4 volts) weighs 62grams and the HT-220 1500mah LiPo pack (7.4 volts) weighs 75grams.

I ran the HT-220 in my MBX5T yesterday all day long (about an hour of run time). I used it the day before in my car when I set up the Nomadio React which took about 10-15 minutes and ran a tank of fuel through my truck to get it tuned (another 12 minutes) all on the same charge. The React worked great reporting back my Rx pack voltage the whole day and it never dropped below 7.4 volts. The servos were so much faster and stronger on the extra juice too.

I love it!
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:02 AM   #1327
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Tony,
Did you run the Regulator?
if so which one?
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Old 04-24-2007, 10:43 PM   #1328
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I have the 7.0 volt regulators from HT Batteries, but this past weekend I ran it direct without a regulator as I wanted to monitor the voltage on my new React. Fully charged the pack had a little over 8.4 volts. After I ran it at home for a tank of fuel, played with the end-points then ran a few tanks for practice at the track, the pack settled down to about 7.64 volts. I was having so much fun I forgot to check it after that....LOL

I'm going to install the 7.0 volt regulator for the next outing. I'll NEVER go back to 6.0 volts or NiMh packs.
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:41 AM   #1329
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Anybody got a link to the xray tuning manual everybody says is so good?
Thanks
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Old 04-25-2007, 07:09 AM   #1330
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Tony what LiPo charger are you using? Did you buy one from HT batteries?
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Old 04-26-2007, 12:04 AM   #1331
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For those of you that are using spacers in the shocks to control droop how many are you using? Also Which pack did you get Tony. I am going to get one although i dont thin i will run it without the regulator. I just got the 2.4 for my 3pk and i dont want to mess it up! Finally gave up on the spectrum for the Mugen, to many range issues. I will just use it for my T4.
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:54 AM   #1332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzstr
Tony what LiPo charger are you using? Did you buy one from HT batteries?
Yes, I use the HT Batteries Balance Charger. Do not charge LiPo's without a balance charger. It is the only SAFE way to charge them. The HT Battery LiPo packs come with two leads. One is a standard Rx lead (or Dean's plug on the starter box pack) and the other lead is the balance charge lead. The balance charger perfectly charges each cell individually so the pack is perfect every time. Also there is no fear in over charging a single cell. I went LiPo everything (Tx, Rx and Starter Box packs). If I wasn't planning on running 4-cell 1/12th scale carpet down in NC when I move there, I'd sell my Triton...LOL
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:03 AM   #1333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonysScrews
I have the 7.0 volt regulators from HT Batteries, but this past weekend I ran it direct without a regulator as I wanted to monitor the voltage on my new React. Fully charged the pack had a little over 8.4 volts. After I ran it at home for a tank of fuel, played with the end-points then ran a few tanks for practice at the track, the pack settled down to about 7.64 volts. I was having so much fun I forgot to check it after that....LOL

I'm going to install the 7.0 volt regulator for the next outing. I'll NEVER go back to 6.0 volts or NiMh packs.
After one hour of run time in my MBX5T the HT-220 1500mah LiPo (without the regulator) still reads 7.64 volts. Awesome run time so far. I'm not going to charge it and run it again this upcoming weekend and see how long it takes before I hit 7.4 volts, then 7.0 volts, then 6.7 volts and then finally 6.3 volts. Then I'll recharge it and install the 7.0 volt regulator in my car and set the React Rx voltage alarm to go off at 6.7 volts. You can run LiPo's safely down to 3.0 volts per cell (6.0 volts for an Rx pack) so most will set the alarm for 6.3 volts but I'm going to see how long the pack runs between 6.7 and 6.3 so I know how much time I can still go when the alarm goes off at 6.7 (like if I'm in the middle of a qualifier or main and then it goes off, I'll know if I can safely finish the race before the pack dumps).
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:58 AM   #1334
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Hey guys,
what is the best fitting body for the 5R?
I bought two proline C.P. 2.0 and the body seems really tight around the front shock tower. I was told that proline only makes a body for the MBX5 and it fits the R. it doesnt appear that way to me. Any tricks I need to know about here? What body fits best?
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:07 AM   #1335
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The only aftermarket body I have heard of for the R specifically is J-concepts. The cars are so similar that the bodies are considered to be the same body and just need to be trimed differently.
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