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Old 02-25-2007, 10:49 PM   #1081
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I have a few more questions. (Still have a lot to learn )

-What about running multiple brake disks on both the front and rear? I've seen a few cars that are running 2 disks on both sides. (1 pad between the two disks obviously) Are they doing this for more braking power or to keep the brakes from fading toward the end of a main?

-Are the blue springs heavier or softer than the gray? I've seen the blue springs marked as medium and soft on different sites.

-Should I be running my clutch bearings dry or lubed? I've been told both ways. Dry makes since to keep anything from getting on the clutch shoes and causing slipping, but I've destroyed 2 clutch bearings (In only 5 full days at the track) and have to believe it's from them getting too hot from being run dry.

-What's the main difference between the turbo and standard head for the Ninja motor? When would you use one over the other?

-Does anyone use the carburetor restrictors in the Ninja motor? Would you run a smaller restrictors on a smaller, tighter track and a large one on a bigger wide open track? What comes with the motor standard?

Thanks in advance and sorry for all the noob questions.
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:26 PM   #1082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I have a few more questions. (Still have a lot to learn )

-What about running multiple brake disks on both the front and rear? I've seen a few cars that are running 2 disks on both sides. (1 pad between the two disks obviously) Are they doing this for more braking power or to keep the brakes from fading toward the end of a main?

-Are the blue springs heavier or softer than the gray? I've seen the blue springs marked as medium and soft on different sites.

-Should I be running my clutch bearings dry or lubed? I've been told both ways. Dry makes since to keep anything from getting on the clutch shoes and causing slipping, but I've destroyed 2 clutch bearings (In only 5 full days at the track) and have to believe it's from them getting too hot from being run dry.

-What's the main difference between the turbo and standard head for the Ninja motor? When would you use one over the other?

-Does anyone use the carburetor restrictors in the Ninja motor? Would you run a smaller restrictors on a smaller, tighter track and a large one on a bigger wide open track? What comes with the motor standard?

Thanks in advance and sorry for all the noob questions.
Hi bro!! im a newbie , too! but il try to answer some of your questions,, oki?

-i believe BLUE springs are soft.., grey is medium.
-normally i run my Cbearings straight from the packaging., and last about 2-4 liters of fuel..,
-I didnt know that the ninja also came with a standard head,,.,hmmn, anyway i have the turbohead.,, turbohead uses turbo plugs,, while standard uses standard plugs,,., more power if using turbo and doesnt need that copper gasket thing..
- i forgot the carb insert size...jeezzz! sorry... anyway i just use whats provided in the engine on all tracks here. okioki?
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:27 AM   #1083
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The Ninja comes with a 7.5mm carb restrictor from the factory, and you have it correct about the sizes. They are kinda like restrictor plates for NASCAR, the smaller ones will tone down the engine for smaller tracks and increase fuel mileage, while the larger ones will pretty much open the engine up and let it go!

Sandrixx is correct, the blues are soft and greys are medium springs.

As for brakes, someone just a few posts up suggested the TTR Option brakes, I have not tried them, but if you use the Avid Indos, or other craddock brakes, one on each side along with 2 metal calipers on each side for strength will give you more than enough braking power.

Clutch bearings, I use the rubber sealed one and go straight from the pack to the bell.

Im sure Ryan Barnes will chime in as he is the local mugen guru. Hoped this helped a little....


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Old 02-26-2007, 08:47 AM   #1084
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I always run my clutch bearings dry and replace them after 1 gallon.

Carb restrictors also work well on tracks that are very low in traction. I always used one in my gas truck, not so much in 1/8 scale though, but they are a viable tuning option.
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:20 AM   #1085
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Jon- If your getting 5 full days of running on 2 clutch bell bearings I'd be more than happy with that. If I run clutch bell bearings for practice then 3 heats and a main, their goin in the trash!! Considering that clutch bell bearings only cost a buck($1) each, it's not worth getting takin out of a main because of bearing failure. Personally I run the metal shielded bearings, I had terrible luck with the rubber sealed bearings failing, seemed like 2 tanks and the rubber seals would fly out and the bearings would get full of dust and go out during a race! I get the metal shielded bearings in the 10 packs and put them straight from the pack into the clutch bell and then into the trash. I actually try to put the fresh bearings in a little before the main, for example I raced over the weekend and I put new bearings in before the 3rd round of qualifying, and I ran them in the main. So this coming weekend I will run the same bearings in practice and the first two rounds of qualifying and then put fresh bearings in before the 3rd round. I keep this cycle going from weekend to weekend.
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Old 02-26-2007, 10:20 AM   #1086
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Thanks guys. I didn't realize the clutch bearings were such a replacement item. Not that it's a big deal to replace them. I just needed to know how often and how many to order at a time. Glad to know there's somewhere on here I can get some of these stupid quick questions answered while I'm still getting used to this nitro off road stuff.
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Old 02-26-2007, 11:34 AM   #1087
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Get some $1 clutch bearings and replace them when they feel very loose or gritty.

Does anyone have some setups for the MBX5R and MBX5T I can read over? I am curious as to what people are doing. I haven't ran either yet.
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Old 02-26-2007, 07:41 PM   #1088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I have a few more questions. (Still have a lot to learn )

-What about running multiple brake disks on both the front and rear? I've seen a few cars that are running 2 disks on both sides. (1 pad between the two disks obviously) Are they doing this for more braking power or to keep the brakes from fading toward the end of a main?

-Are the blue springs heavier or softer than the gray? I've seen the blue springs marked as medium and soft on different sites.

-Should I be running my clutch bearings dry or lubed? I've been told both ways. Dry makes since to keep anything from getting on the clutch shoes and causing slipping, but I've destroyed 2 clutch bearings (In only 5 full days at the track) and have to believe it's from them getting too hot from being run dry.

-What's the main difference between the turbo and standard head for the Ninja motor? When would you use one over the other?

-Does anyone use the carburetor restrictors in the Ninja motor? Would you run a smaller restrictors on a smaller, tighter track and a large one on a bigger wide open track? What comes with the motor standard?

Thanks in advance and sorry for all the noob questions.
Jon is family hobbies now running 1/8 scale nitro? Or is there another track in san diego area again?
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:50 PM   #1089
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No, unfortunately Family is too small for 1/8 scale. I raced at ARC in Marietta once before they closed. (Hopefully they're going to be opening again soon in a new location.) The closest track is Palomar. I'll be there this Sunday. Other than that, we're racing at Revelation and they're building a new track in Ontario that we were at yesterday.
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:00 AM   #1090
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Ryan I have looked at this thread all the way through even through your set up and I'm curious to know about the Arm mounts are you using the King Headz and if so which one? Lastly before I buy any servos can some one recommend some servos. I was thinking the Hitec 5995 for steering any other suggestions please thanks.
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Old 02-27-2007, 03:51 AM   #1091
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Default longer front driveshafts?

is anyone using the 3mm longer front driveshafts on the new mbx5r? they are option part from mugen. i saw them on a mbx5 and they increased the steering throw alot.
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Old 02-27-2007, 05:37 AM   #1092
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mr22- Yes I run all King Headz arm mounts, I have the -1 deg lower arm mount(kick up) block at the rear of the front arm hinge pins, and the -2 deg anti squat block and the front of the rear arms, and I use either the -2.75 or -3 rear toe block just depending on the track conditions. For servos I run the Airtronics 94358's for steering and throttle/brake.

patrick- I ran the longer dogbones in my old MBX5, but in my new MBX5R there doesn't seem to be a need, I haven't compared the two to see if the new R ones are longer, but I run my R at a full 277mm track width and have never had one pop out of the outdrives.
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:12 AM   #1093
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Ace Servos would be my choice. www.rccompound.com
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Old 02-27-2007, 11:02 AM   #1094
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This might be helpful too some!!!!!!! Copy & paste
http://www.mnnitroseries.com/files/cb_mbx5.pdf
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Old 02-27-2007, 11:39 AM   #1095
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Look at his driveshafts, they are universals... Who makes those ?
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