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Old 02-20-2007, 04:28 PM   #1051
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Hi all and thanx for the info - especially Ryan!

I've got a few questions and thought that you guys might be a able to help:

- How are you guys setting the EPA on your steering? I tend to set mine when the car is resting on the startbox (fully extended suspension) but I've noticed that the travel can increase significantly if I set it when the can sits on a flat table. Won't this damage the servos?

- I noticed the Mugen has changed the diff gaskets from black (Prospec) to some thinner blue ones (R). It seems that the diffs work much better with two blue one instead of one - I've also heard that some people are using more than that - any thoughts?

- Is it true that the rear plastic uprights are using a different position for the cabler link therefore changing the rolling centre?

- Has anyone tried the new -1deg Front Lower arm support ?

Thanks guys!
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:16 PM   #1052
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flat on table, i ran my sanwa servo like this for 3 years. no problems.
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:27 PM   #1053
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hi!,,., would setting the EPA with tires and on the floor or flattrack be of difference?.. i havent tried that on the table method though.., thanx!!
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:28 PM   #1054
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i mean,, with the kit on full setup,,., like ure about to drive it,,..
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:37 PM   #1055
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http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idcategory=466

Come on...what you "need" and what you "NEED" are not always the same.
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Old 02-21-2007, 04:12 AM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Anyone know the part numbers for the chassis braces from the regular MBx5? I'm running the 5R and I want to try those to get a little more flex in the car over the aluminum ones.
Jon- If you haven't already found them, the part numbers for the stock chassis braces are, Front- MUGE0114 and Rear- MUGE0115 and the ends for those are MUGC0107A plus you will need the pivot balls that mount in those ends which are MUGC0107D and MUGH0180. I run the stock chassis brace on the front the majority of the time because it does let the chassis flex more and steers better and handles better on a rougher track. I prefer the Prospec brace on the rear, I never run the stock brace on the rear because I don't want the extra flex in that area, it will only cause you gear mesh problems and cause the clutch bell bearings to wear out faster.
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Old 02-21-2007, 04:25 AM   #1057
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stamko- Like some others have already posted, I also set my EPA while my buggy is sitting at ride height(arms level) on a flat table, I watch the backside of the plastic uprights and when the plastic of the upright "just touches" the shaft of the pillow ball I stop there, that way your servo saver doesn't start to engage.

As for diff gaskets I run 2 gaskets stacked ontop each other in all three diffs, seems to get a better seal and the diff will set tighter in the diff housing and not have any side to side play. I also replace the four 3x8mm diff screws in each diff with 3x12mm screws, you can get your diffs assembled nice and tight without stripping the plastic cups out.

As for the rear hubs I have always ran the billet Prospec ones so I have no experience with the plastic ones, but I have heard that you have to run the rear camber links in a diffrent hole on the stock hubs. Good Luck!
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:38 AM   #1058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYAN BARNES
Jon- If you haven't already found them, the part numbers for the stock chassis braces are, Front- MUGE0114 and Rear- MUGE0115 and the ends for those are MUGC0107A plus you will need the pivot balls that mount in those ends which are MUGC0107D and MUGH0180. I run the stock chassis brace on the front the majority of the time because it does let the chassis flex more and steers better and handles better on a rougher track. I prefer the Prospec brace on the rear, I never run the stock brace on the rear because I don't want the extra flex in that area, it will only cause you gear mesh problems and cause the clutch bell bearings to wear out faster.
Thanks Ryan. Sounds very similar to what we do with a touring car.
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:26 AM   #1059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idcategory=466

Come on...what you "need" and what you "NEED" are not always the same.

LOL - Very good point. Thanks for the link.
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:41 PM   #1060
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Hey whats up guys
I just bought a used prospec roller, this is my first 1/8 scale. I normally race electric offroad. Just started racing gas ten scale.

Can you guys tell me what spare parts i need to buy for traveling to tracks to race

Also whats a good beginner motor I dont want to much power easy to drive and tune. But i also may visit a few large tracks like the farm

thanks for the help
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:16 PM   #1061
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iceman- pick up some front upper and lower arms, and a set of rear arms, maybe some shock shafts and plastic shock ends, and tie rod ends. The Mugen is very tough and dependable but in an extreme crash these would be some of the things you would break first. As for quality of engine vs cost of engine I would have to highly suggest you look at the OS .21 VG, for $150-160 I don't think you can buy a better engine, good power, dependable, and easy to break in and tune. Good Luck!
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:23 PM   #1062
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thanks Ryan what do you suggest for clutch, also what pipe for vg
I plan to upgrade with the kit from carolina r/c
How fast does the steering servo need to be for eight scale
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:27 PM   #1063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icemandolmite
thanks Ryan what do you suggest for clutch, also what pipe for vg
I plan to upgrade with the kit from carolina r/c
How fast does the steering servo need to be for eight scale
I had a VG in mine, and it ran good with the carbon shoes. Alot less maint. than the aluminum ones. The VG ran real well with the JP3 also. Also for a tad more like $170+/- is the novarossi 3 port.
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:32 PM   #1064
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Go with the complete Mugen clutch setup(you can find them everyday on ebay), for pipes-again for the money go with the JP-3, and servos- I don't always prefer a fast steering servo but you will need some torque, I would try to find something with 140oz+ and around .10 to .15 speed, for throttle brake the JR 650 works great and is actually a good steering servo, I always keep a couple JR 650's in my bag for backups.
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:38 PM   #1065
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I was also told I should by dynamite throttle,brake kit
is this true

Is there a site that I can learn about set-ups, I have know idea about droop and all these things they dont exist in ten scale offroad racing
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