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Old 02-03-2007, 08:58 PM   #976
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Not the way I see it...if the lower arm is pointed up more, the instant center will be higher and it will have more roll.

You're talking about the lower pivot holes, right? If you're talking about the upper holes, then higher would be more roll.

Quote:
Originally Posted by keyesgood
iv got the xxx main book , im trying to work out what you all are saying , so if i use the upper hole in the hub it will give me more roll , thus more traction , is this what your saying ,



thanks ,

mike ,
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:00 PM   #977
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If you didn't set the ride height again, then it would raise the CG...but that's not what you would do, right? Changing the pivot blocks is not a very convenient way of setting ride height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timox
Yes Mike i think that's exactly what they are saying.



Am i also correct in thinking that you could also lower the inside of the rear lower arm by using a rear tow in block with -1 squat and the lowest anti squat spacer ? So you still maintain the 2deg anti squat but the inside of the lower arm is now in a lower position ?

That would also lower roll centre too wouldn't it ? BUT, in this case it would RAISE the centre of gravity a tiny bit yes ? So its probably not a desirable thing to do is it ?

I am just trying to explore every available and possible adjustment.And get an understanding of what it all dose.
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:10 PM   #978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYAN BARNES
Actually you do put the front (tower) bushing in with the middle insert, AND add the 1.5 mm spacer between the (low) set of hinge pin holders and the top plate. These are the same spacers that come with a kit for spacing out your servos. This is something that Chad Bradley came up with back when he ran for Mugen, it makes your buggy more responsive and helps keep it from traction rolling, and by lowering the rear you are maintaining a low center of gravity because it keeps the hinge pins, arms and pillow balls all lower to the ground which will allow you to carry more corner speed. If your still not clear on where to place the rectangle shaped 1.5mm spacers then PM me your email addy and I will send you a pic.
Ryan- So do the front arm mod and keep rear upright in the upper hole? correct?
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:24 PM   #979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
If you didn't set the ride height again, then it would raise the CG...but that's not what you would do, right? Changing the pivot blocks is not a very convenient way of setting ride height.

No not quite what i was trying to say. I was thinking about the way it would make the lower arm point UP more. Thus making more roll and more grip?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
Not the way I see it...if the lower arm is pointed up more, the instant centre will be higher and it will have more roll.

You're talking about the lower pivot holes, right? If you're talking about the upper holes, then higher would be more roll.
And yes Mike was talking about the upper holes in the uprights. Read his post again and you will see he said
Quote:
so if i use the upper hole in the hub it will give me more roll , thus more traction , is this what your saying ,
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:28 PM   #980
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There are "upper" holes on the top and bottom of the upright...

Last edited by Turbo Joe; 02-04-2007 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 02-04-2007, 03:15 PM   #981
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The bottom upper holes then Or is that the upper bottom holes



Nah. I was talking about the bottom arm hinge pin holes in the rear upright
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Old 02-04-2007, 03:57 PM   #982
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I also run the -1 toe plate with the anti squat in the middle hole.
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:17 PM   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SebsCustom
Here is a question for all Mugen buggy owners:

How much does your buggy weigh? (no fuel, everything else reace ready)
anyone???
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Old 02-04-2007, 10:23 PM   #984
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7 pounds, 14.9 ounces dry.

It's pretty stock, equipment-wise, just the "R" equipment on a standard MBX-5 car. Eck-Tec upper pin brace, doubled-up ackerman, shock socks...it should weigh really close to a stock "R". Lightweight body as well. Airtronics servos (358 x 2), OS VG and JP-3.
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Old 02-04-2007, 11:25 PM   #985
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Ok so i have just got myself one of those King Heads Ackerman plates but can anyone tell me which way up its supposed to go ?

And what holes do i use to attach it to the car ? It has 2 sets of mounting holes. There is one set of holes in the same spot as the stock plate but the screws are too short to fit there. The other holes are in a fair bit from stock and are inside the recessed cut-out area. ?

Can anyone shed some light on how to install one ?

Thanks.
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Old 02-04-2007, 11:44 PM   #986
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hey guys, i was wondering if any of you might happen to have an extra receiver box lid for the receiver side that you would want to sell me? i lost mine this weekend, and the only way i can get another one, is if i buy the whole receiver box assembly. let me know thanks
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Old 02-05-2007, 01:28 AM   #987
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Timox, If its the same as mine it will be Flat side to the top and use the same hole centers as the stock one , pretty sure you will need longer screws also as it is thicker (no counter bore) hope this helps
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:56 AM   #988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slippery
Timox, If its the same as mine it will be Flat side to the top and use the same hole centers as the stock one , pretty sure you will need longer screws also as it is thicker (no counter bore) hope this helps

Thanks for that Slippery.


I put it on and had a look but decided to go back to the stock one as the offset made the tow out a lot worse at full droop. I cant stand that aspect of the Mugen.

The bump steer is very small with the stock one anyway and i didnt think it was worth it.
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Old 02-05-2007, 05:33 AM   #989
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+1 On that Timox. It was also worse on mine...
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:07 PM   #990
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install it with the channel facing up and use the outside holes , i had mine the other way and the bump steer was worse, now its hardly noticeable
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