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Old 01-09-2007, 03:06 PM   #841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heffer
hey guys, i was wondering if any of you have problems with the diff leaking in the new mbx-5r? thanks im hopefully going to get one soon, if i dont like what i see in the rc8
I haven't seen anything leaking on any cars I take care of...
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:23 PM   #842
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Anyone know if mbx5r bodies fit the regular mbx5?
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:33 PM   #843
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Originally Posted by ollie 45
Anyone know if mbx5r bodies fit the regular mbx5?
If they're different, I haven't seen where.
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:52 PM   #844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen 5r
Yes, the hinge pin holders @ the rear of the upper arms..
5r- Using the (lower) holders in the rear will give you a "higher roll center", which on the track will make your car more responsive to steering input and reduce the chances of you traction rolling on a high bite track or fast corner.
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Old 01-09-2007, 04:33 PM   #845
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hey, i bought a 2nd mbx5 prospec. from pictures i got it looked almost new, however the kit still on the way.

just wondering, which part of the kit that mostly need to be replaced?
and is there anything from the prospec worth upgrading to the R parts to make handling better?

thanks
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Old 01-09-2007, 05:14 PM   #846
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wich springs are stiffer,white or grays? i have a mbx5 prospec converted with the msr truggy conversion, what weight diff oils and shock oils are good starting point? is it still competitive?{ club wise}
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Old 01-09-2007, 06:20 PM   #847
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gabby- the Mugen springs from hard to soft go Red, White, Grey, Blue. The MSR seems to be a pretty good kit, and yes it's fine for club racing. In the diffs I would go 7-10-3, and for suspension I would probably go with the white springs instead of the softer greys, the MSR kit is somewhat heavier than the original buggy kit it comes from. Try Mugen 450 in the front and 400 rear. Tony P. from tonysscrews.com can give you more input on the MSR truggy as he is the mastermind behind that beast!!
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Old 01-09-2007, 06:25 PM   #848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
hey, i bought a 2nd mbx5 prospec. from pictures i got it looked almost new, however the kit still on the way.

just wondering, which part of the kit that mostly need to be replaced?
and is there anything from the prospec worth upgrading to the R parts to make handling better?

thanks
ick- The MBX5 Prospec kits are still a very competitive and durable kit, and the cost to convert them to a R really doesn't add up. You'd be better off to sell one of your MBX5's and order a new R kit, for what it would cost you to convert it. As for the MBX5, just watch the normal wear and tear parts, the plastic bushings front and rear, toe blocks, and arms. Good luck!
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:34 AM   #849
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Ryan, which rear anti squat plate do you use? 0,-1,-2
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Old 01-10-2007, 10:26 AM   #850
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I run the bushing at the front of the rear arms in the center position, which is -2 degree. As for the rear toe block I never use that for anti squat adjustment, it's always a 0/-3 or 0/-2.75.

Last edited by RYAN BARNES; 01-12-2007 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 01-10-2007, 10:33 AM   #851
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Ok cool, I was wondering. I have mine up as high as they will go. I would like the rear to be planted a little more. I am using the stock set up except the hubs forward.
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Old 01-10-2007, 10:50 AM   #852
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Yeah I tend to run my rear hubs forward at most all indoor and outdoor tracks, every once in awhile I run the 1mm spacer in front of the rear hubs, thats about it.
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Old 01-10-2007, 11:10 AM   #853
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Hey, been kinda watchin over this thread and soakin up as much info as possible, esp. from Ryan Barnes . But still have not been able to cure my mid-exit corner push. Any ideas.

Im running a

2.3mm bar
1 small spacer in front of the upper arm
ackerman-middle
shocks- lower/outside hole upper 2nd out from inside

rear
3* toe block
shocks lower/outside hole upper 3rd out from inside
2.8 mm bar


Tracks I run at are small-med and normally hardpack and/or bluegroove. I just cant seem to get the car to stop pushing when on the gas out of a corner! Im fairly new to all this so bare with me if you can guys!

Thanks

"D"
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Old 01-10-2007, 11:22 AM   #854
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Front shocks-go 2nd hole from top, and outside on arm. Push your top arms all the way forward (against the tower). And check your ride height, you wanna run "ARMS LEVEL" on that style track, your dogbones will be slightly below level, both front and rear. Grey springs with 400 front and 350 rear. And try a 2.75 rear toe block.
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Old 01-10-2007, 11:24 AM   #855
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Shorten your rear camber link too. This frees up the rear end a little.
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