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Old 01-05-2006, 09:48 AM   #61
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5k front
7k center
2k rear
This works almost everywhere. I raced at a really rough track once that made me wish I had 5k in the center but I still got around pretty well. I have heard of going to 6k front and 8k center for smooth high bite track.
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:18 AM   #62
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Did you go with a setup you found on the Mugen site? Myself I have never found a setup that worked well from a factory web site. The best setups Ive found are the ones that were gave to me.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:16 PM   #63
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The setups on the Mugen site are good. You will find that they are all pertty close to being the same with a few differences. Chad B. likes to run an unconventional front upper arm setup for instance. A nice thing about the mugen is that the balance of the car is so good that you don't need to change the setup much from track to track. The Kyosho is famous for this trait too.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:50 PM   #64
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I thought it was just a 8th scale thing. The Jammin I ran last year never needed much chassis change. Most often the change of tires would do the trick.
I will check out the web setups for a starter
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:48 PM   #65
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That's true, most 1/8th scales require less setup work than a 1/10th buggy. I have read Jason Ashton comment that he does not change his setup on the Mugen ever, no matter what track he goes to. I'm sure he changes tires as needed but most tracks like Panther K2's and Crimefighters.
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Old 01-05-2006, 04:57 PM   #66
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I tried 5k 7k 1k on my mbx5 but it was tail happy, sliding all over and was hard to handle. I run on a smooth but dusty clay track. After changing the cneter to 3k it's much better now but still twitchy. Will try mugen stock 3k 3k 1k and see how it goes.
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Old 01-05-2006, 07:22 PM   #67
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I had a friend who was having that problem with the 5-7-2 setup. He switched to 5-7-3 and the problem went away. 1k is too light for an MBX5 rear diff.
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Old 01-06-2006, 12:44 AM   #68
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I am in the process into buying a Mugen Prospec. What are the extra parts that is a must to have extra?
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Old 01-06-2006, 05:35 AM   #69
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If you mean spares for the track I would recomend front upper and lower arms, and front knuckles. In a season and a half, the only chassis parts I have broken were a front lower arm (it was new at the time), a front shock end (same crash) and a rear outer hinge pin. When you see somebody with a broken Mugen there is always 2 or 3 more people standing next to him in stunned in disbelief.
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Old 01-07-2006, 06:26 AM   #70
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I also had the same problem running 5-7-1. I just switched it to 3-5-3 and Im going to try that.
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Old 01-07-2006, 07:00 AM   #71
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I am a bit lazy , got my center changed to 3k, so now running 5k 3k 1k, been raining lately otherwise I'll test it out and report back here of my findings.
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Old 01-07-2006, 08:30 AM   #72
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I tried 3K in the center diff and waisted a pair of front tires because the front unloaded at every squeeze of the trigger . Also lost huge amounts of forward bite but the car was easier to drive ,slow a molasses though . I went to 7K in the center and 6K in the front and 1K in the rear ,I could come out of corners clamped , but it would push through the last half until I got into the throttle . If you are looping a Mugen with 1K in the rear you really have a messed up set-up with your shocks , the car should push like a dozer with 1K in the rear , the heavier you go the looser it should make the rear . This a real balancing act on the Mugen for sure , and then you need to account for bumpsteer up front aswell , the car will become incredibly un-predictable if you have a lot of bumpsteer and toe-out . Also if your track gets rougher and rougher as the day goes on ,you will need to change the diffs to a lighter fluid to get rid of the darting . I ran the crap out of my Mugen last year and spent hours and hours trying to figure it out ,as it was the first time running a Mugen for me . I usually run Kyosho and just switched back to them . I liked the Mugen for sure ! But around here the tracks are not Mugen friendly ,they are small and require tons of steering to get around. I found the Mugen lacked in this department They made up for it though in the stability end of it .
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Old 01-08-2006, 03:40 AM   #73
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You can raise the stock ackerman up 2-3mm with washers to get rid of some of the bumpsteer. Some guys double them up. I jst bought the KingHeadz ackerman that has 3mm in it already.

I would highly recommend Jason Ashton's 04' Nats setup as the starting setup on the car. But don't be afraid to make changes. Just do them one at a time so you know what does what.

I run on a rough track that gets rutted up. I ended up switching to the light blue springs and it really helped a lot. I also go trid of the re-active caster in the front end like Chad Bradley did. Basically you use washers between the upper steering plate and the E106A/B blocks to make the hinge pins "parallel". This made the car more predictable for me as my driving isn't good enough to drive the same line/speeds lap after lap.

I've owned my MBX5 since July 2004 and I've yet to break a single part on it. Haven't broken anything on my MSR X5T either aside from a few chipped teeth off the stock 62T spur gear. This was due to major chassis flex with teh stock, short X5 rear brace. After making my own longer rear chassis brace, the flex is almost gone. But I also re-geared the F/R diffs and I'm running a smaller spur now too. I also replace the front steering end links if they get bent. You can buy like a 8-pack of them cheap. Some think they are designed poorly, but they're actually designed quite well. The opening allows you to take a hit, without breaking something more serious. But, if you do bend them, the next hit will surely pop them off the ball.

On the guy looking for a a 48T spur, you also have the option of running the Optional 11/38T ring & pinion gears. But I use a 12T CB on my MSR. SportWerks, HPI Dirt demon and Ofna all have a 12T CB that uses standard 5x10mm bearings. I have the SportWerks on my MSR now but picked up the Ofna to try out. The SportWerks spacing is a little off on my Mugen clutch/flywheel setup. It also has a larger inside diameter that makes the 1.0 springs stall higher.

Check out Carolinasrc.com for replacement bronze bushing instead of running the plastic pieces.

On the numbered blocks, the ProSpec comes with an additional 0 block for the front kickup, but it also comes with the rear toe-in blocks that have the -1 on them also.

Best regards,

Tony P.
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:35 AM   #74
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thanks tony, so the optioinal ring and pinion gears will give me more accelaration?
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Old 01-08-2006, 09:27 AM   #75
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If your running the truggy , they will , If you try running them in your buggy you will get good takeoff/wheelspin and guys if your looking for some sick steering out of your MBX5 ,put only the 11/38 combo in the rear , then PAY ATTENTION as your rig will turn like there is no tomorrow !! Especially with the throttle managed proper , if your a throttle jocky and always holding it clamped forget this set-up you will be into the boards everywhere LOL !
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