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Old 12-18-2006, 07:23 PM   #661
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Tony P.- I Finally got on there and got registered and ordered me some MORE kick a$$ screw kits!! 2 MBX5R kits, 2 B4 kits and a bunch more individuals!! Nice site and easy to navigate on there! Thanks Again!!! www.tonysscrews.com
Tony's Screws were the first thing i ordered when i got the kit, i cant beleve there are so many screws in one buggy
BTW thanks ryan for all the help with the setup you rock!
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:29 PM   #662
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Anytime Paul, just tryin to help keep the MUGENS OUT FRONT!!!
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:32 PM   #663
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To piggy back on Ryan's note, I ordered a set of tony's screws for a mbx5r. One of the bettter upgrades for any car. Each bag is seperated and listed individualy with screw sizes and cap head, flat head, button head, etc...

I have had other screw kits in the past that are a hodge podge of screws all mixed together, takes too long to find what you need. Plus tony's screws are a great grade alloy.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:05 PM   #664
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Thanks for the kind words guys!

Ryan, I just got your message. I'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon.

Below is Tyler Vik's MBX5R setup:

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If you need more steering go to 3mm behind arm for caster, and if you need more bite go to 3k in the rear diff.

Front:
shock oil........400wt Mugen
shock piston.....1.5 (black)
spring...........grey
shock loc........middle hole in on tower, outside hole on arm shock length.....stock droop............full sway bar.........2.4mm ride height......13mm ackerman pos.....middle hole, raised 3mm servo-saver......2mm threads showing caster...........2mm clip in rear of upper arm
camber...........-2 degrees
toe out..........1 degree
upper arm pos....upper insert on tower, upper blocks (E0106A/ in rear lower arm pos....2mm washer in front of arm lower arm mount..-1 (E0105A) track............276mm wheel adapters...Stock pillow balls.....stock diff.............6k Mugen (no small orings)

Center:
diff.............8k Mugen (no small orings) brakes...........TTR Option (single disc) bias.............%30, %70 clutch...........alum shoes, 1.0 spring gearing..........stock (13/46)

Rear:
Oil..............350wt Mugen
piston...........1.5 (black)
spring...........grey
shock loc........middle hole in on tower, outside hole on arm shock length.....stock droop............full sway bar.........2.9mm ride height......17mm rear hub.........plastic rear hub pos.....lower hole wheel base.......shprt camber links.....inside middle hole on tower, outside upper hole on hub
camber...........-2 degrees
toe in...........3 degrees
antisquat........middle
wheel adapters...Stock
diff.............2k Mugen (no small orings)
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:07 PM   #665
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The MBX5R and MBX5T both have the same F&R shocks. The reds off the truck are too stiff for the buggy. But if you wanted something softer on the truck the whites may be a good option. I plan on getting all three as I'll use the Light blue and gray on the car and the white and reds on the truck.

Mugen did not get the new springs and servo-saver tube in yet (the new tube is Teflon coated and very smooth), but they are on the way....

Quote:
New Springs:

E0528 Front Spring (Long 14.5T) Light Blue
E0529 Front Spring (Long 14T) Gray
E0530 Front Spring (Long 13.5T) White
E0531 Rear Spring (Long 17.5T) Light Blue
E0532 Rear Spring (Long 17T) Gray
E0533 Rear Spring (Long 16.5T) White
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Old 12-19-2006, 05:28 PM   #666
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Could someone who has driven both the MBX5 Prospec and now the MBX5R Prospec please describe the differences in how they handle. I ran a MBX5 Prospec for a short time and had a little trouble making it turn. Has this been corrected? I am down to the MBX5R and a Jammin' FTE for the coming year and am looking for something to sway my decision one way or the other. Thanks guys.

Scott
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Old 12-19-2006, 08:00 PM   #667
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Scott- without writing a novel, (which I don't wanna do and I'm sure you don't wanna read), "For me" the new R in comparison to the MBX5 handles alot better, corners and jumps better. The all new suspension, towers, arms and shocks are GREAT! After I first got this kit built and took it thru a whoop section I was amazed and when I launched it over a big double I was blown away at how it travels thru the air, so level and stable, very controlable and predictable. I'd suggest going back to about page 16 of this thread and reading thru to the current page and I think your decision will be made. MUGEN!!! Good luck-Ryan
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Old 12-19-2006, 08:46 PM   #668
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OK guys i am at a loss. I have 2 starter boxes neither of which can i make work. Did you have to open up the hole on the chassis at all? I see other guys boxes set up simaler to minebut it just wont reach the flywheel without itting the chassis.
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Old 12-19-2006, 08:46 PM   #669
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Ryan - thanks for the reply. One more question/clarification. The one area that I really had trouble with my first Prospec was off power steering. I know that there are many adjustments that can influence off power steering, but speaking in general terms, does the (R) turn better off power. Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2006, 08:56 PM   #670
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Scott I am with Ryan on the MBX5R and I haven't even ran mine yet. I've been running the regular prospec for two years now and was in between an eight and the new R. One question to ask yourself is "have you ever run into things abnormally breaking on your prospec?" My prospec seemed damn near bulletproof and has put me up front on a few ocassions. I tell you what, building that new R was great, it goes together awesome and the changes you'll find when assembling just proved to me that I had made a great choice.

Stay with proven, dependable, tunable, and just plain all around awesome quality. Get that MUGEN and eat them Jammins alive...
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Old 12-20-2006, 04:43 AM   #671
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Merf- you need to go back and read the previous page of this thread, we covered the starter box issue last week Here's a link to your answer! Good luck-Ryan http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...?idproduct=475

Scott- Yes, as I was talking about earlier the new R has ALOT of down travel, so it transfers weight really well thru corners. I don't like the droop screws because they dig into your chassis and get out of adjustment, so I limit my shocks internally using a stiff black o-ring that I place on the shock shaft before I push it thru the shock body. I worked with diffrent caster settings and shock positions to get my corner entry really good on the R. I think you'll see what myself and Chad were talking about if you get the R kit and build it, the fit and finish on this buggy is amazing, second to none!! Post up if you have any other concerns. -Ryan
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Old 12-20-2006, 07:47 AM   #672
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Ryan I actually saw that. As soon as someone has one in stock its going on the box. The problem i think i am having is the wheel does not seem to reach the flywheel. I am going to throw a fresh charge on the box and see if it was just to dead though. What diameter starter wheel do you run?
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Old 12-20-2006, 08:10 AM   #673
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merf- You are running the Mugen 1pc. mount and Mugen flywheel right? I run the chrome top (blue) starter box, and to be honest until my wheel got a lil worn down it use to actually drag on the chassis, and the chassis shaved it down. Then I mounted that TKO plate on there and it worked perfect. The best bet for alining any box is to do it with your motor out of the buggy so you can view it from the top.
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Old 12-20-2006, 08:22 AM   #674
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Thats what i am running into. with the motor out i can see the wheel does not really get very far into the hole before it hits. With the one piece and the Mugen it seems like the flywheel is almost above the chassis, not sitting i the hole at all. I definately want to get a plate. Have to come up with some kind of quick change so i can use the same box for my CRT and the MUgen. I know get rid of the CRT! I cant really though i just got it!
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Old 12-20-2006, 08:39 AM   #675
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TCmerf don't get discouraged with your starter box issue. Sometimes when you have a new motor or it is still tight I've seen guys groove their box wheel. Ryan is right, to achieve perfect alignment to start adujst your pegs so your flywheel centers with the engine right out of your car. It's easy to "cock" the chassis to the wheel and create a drag on the wheel around the chassis slot. Just kind of get over top of it and make sure of even clearance all the way around the edges. This should be your best bet. I try to run my pegs as tight in to the chassis as I can get them- you almost have to pick the car up and off the box. It's hard to align a box for two vehicles especially for a buggy and truggy because the truggy is longer, thus positions in the rear of the chassis come longer. I've seen the TKO plate and it looks very nice for your box. I've used the chrome top and don't think that it has the balls that my stainless looking ofna does. The whole top doesn't move on mine, just the rear is the trigger and I've never had a problem with either of mine.

Good luck with your box, don't let it slow you down on the track!!!
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