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Old 12-10-2006, 11:26 AM   #616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ira
What sway bars are you using on the front and rear of the buggie?
Are you looking for low speed or hi speed steering?
Using the Std. Sway bars. I'm looking for more steering mid and exit corner. Low speed turns mainly
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Old 12-10-2006, 11:33 AM   #617
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You can go with a slightly lighter front swaybar and gain some mid-exit steering, for example a 2.2 will help, but I wouldn't go below a 2.0
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Old 12-10-2006, 09:56 PM   #618
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Originally Posted by RYAN BARNES
You can go with a slightly lighter front swaybar and gain some mid-exit steering, for example a 2.2 will help, but I wouldn't go below a 2.0
Bozzman Barnes, its me again. Just need your help regarding why my left rear camber link is always popping off after a big jump?..,., only in my prospec this i have a prob. No prob with my mbx5 standard,though. with the prospec its titanium turnbuckles, right?., my setting for the rear camberlink is in the middle hole of the shocktowers and outside hole in my alum uprights.,,how bout i put a very thin drop of power glue after i set my camber?..thanx again in advance, bozzman!
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Old 12-11-2006, 01:37 PM   #619
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Is it popping off of the ball on the tower or is the titanium turnbuckle pulling out of the plastic end? I've had both happen, and you have to replace your plastic ends ever so often because with the beating they take they will eventually do both. Once one pops off or pulls out just replace all 4 plastic ends. If the plastic end is popping off the ball end on the shock tower, you can run longer bolts thru the ball end and put a nut on it, against the ball, and this will keep the plastic ends from being able to twist off the ball.
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:29 PM   #620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYAN BARNES
Is it popping off of the ball on the tower or is the titanium turnbuckle pulling out of the plastic end? I've had both happen, and you have to replace your plastic ends ever so often because with the beating they take they will eventually do both. Once one pops off or pulls out just replace all 4 plastic ends. If the plastic end is popping off the ball end on the shock tower, you can run longer bolts thru the ball end and put a nut on it, against the ball, and this will keep the plastic ends from being able to twist off the ball.
Bozzman,Thank you!! its the titanium turnbuckle pulling out of the plastic end. yep i did replaced it already and dropped a very tiny speck of power glue..just tobe sure. And is there a bit difference performance-wise using mbx5R front upper/lower arms, rear arms in my prospec?..,and whats the difference if i use 0 and higher kickups? also with the anti-squat between the numbers 0 to 3.. and for the angle of the wing,,what is better?.,. flat-straight or a bit angled down?.., Im sorry to ask a lot of questions,,,newbie I am. Thanx very very much for all!!!

Mabuhay!!
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:57 PM   #621
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Yes the MBX5R lower arms (both front and rear), are notched out more on the bottom next to the chassis to allow for more down travel. You run more front kick up on a rough track and less on smooth tracks, with less kick up you will get better steering response. (I always run the -1 block)
I only mess with the rear anti-squat using the bushings at the front of the rear arms, not the rear toe block. Less anti-squat(flatter arms) is better on rough tracks, and More anti-squat(arms leaning back) will give you more rear traction and is better suited on smooth tracks.
As for the wing, I run the MBX5T truggy wing mount kit on my MBX5R buggy, for lower center of gravity, better stability and cornering. And I always have it bolted in the forward top holes, front and rear, using a Proline High downforce wing. Good Luck!
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Old 12-11-2006, 06:41 PM   #622
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Hey ryan, have you noticed any difference in the himoto wing and the pro-line high down force wing? Also have you tried the werks tires, inserts?
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Old 12-11-2006, 07:10 PM   #623
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The Proline HD and Himoto seem an awful lot alike, with the exception of the Himoto having the extra 2 fins in the middle. Their both just as durable but you may get a lil extra stability on high speed straights from the extra fins of the Himoto. I have Proline HD wings on all my buggies and my truggy.

As for the Werks yellow foams, (to my understanding) they are the same as the Ofna yellow foams. They even state that "due to high demand of molded foams, their tires may ship with stock foams and to put the yellow Ofna's in them". I own a set of the Werks "W's" tires that came with stock foams and I put the yellow Ofna's in them and they work great. I have been mounting ALL my 1/8 tires using the yellow Ofna foams since their release.
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Old 12-12-2006, 04:01 PM   #624
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where can I buy mugen mbx5 prospec parts by using part numbers
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Old 12-12-2006, 05:10 PM   #625
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Ryan, also i forgot to ask you if you have used the 2mm offset wheel hubs that Mugen sells on your car? If so how are they. I bought a set for the front and rear and will be testing soon.
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Old 12-12-2006, 05:38 PM   #626
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Mik G- use this link for all your Prospec parts, just click "view" next to each part and you will see the actual Mugen part# and if it's in stock.

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...?idcategory=43



slammer- No, I have never seen the need in running wider hubs on a Mugen buggy. Not only do I think it will work against you in the corners, it will also mess with your suspension by changing your leverage.
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Old 12-14-2006, 10:40 AM   #627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slammer
Hey ryan, have you noticed any difference in the himoto wing and the pro-line high down force wing? Also have you tried the werks tires, inserts?
Support the smaller guy and grab a Himoto!

The wings are tough as nails and work. I love mine......

Go to TKO Competition Devlelopment and grab one.....

www.tkocompetitiondevelopment.com

-Seann
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Old 12-14-2006, 11:24 AM   #628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slammer
Ryan, also i forgot to ask you if you have used the 2mm offset wheel hubs that Mugen sells on your car? If so how are they. I bought a set for the front and rear and will be testing soon.
I used the +1mm hubs on my Mugen when I was running this one wheel that the hex was too deep and the wheel rubbed. But if you run them with the stock wheels the car will turn slower.
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Old 12-14-2006, 04:50 PM   #629
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Default quick change engine mounts for Mugen MBX5R/T

Ryan, Tony, or anyone else,

Has anyone tried the Eck Tec Quick Change Engine Mount - MBX-5 (ETM06020/S) or the King Headz Mugen MBX-5/MBX5T Ez Change Motor Mount - Standard [KHZ-KP-516-BLK] products? I would like to hear any positive or negative feedback on these products before I purchase one.

It would save time when changing engines or clutch parts on raceday IMO. Thanks for any response.
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Old 12-14-2006, 04:57 PM   #630
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I honestly have always just run the Mugen 1pc. motor mount, it's a good solid mount and once I get my gear spacing adjusted I just use blue loctite in the chassis screws, and take my motor in and out using the 4 top motor mount bolts. I think those quick change setups are just that much more of a chance at a mechanical failure, because thats just adding 4 more bolts that can work loose during a race.
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