MBX5
#601
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by RYAN BARNES
Unless your chassis is in bad shape I would suggest you just keep running the one you got, the big changes in the R have to do with the complete suspension (shocks, towers, arms, etc...) So I would just get the upgrade kit from CarolinasRC and mount it all on your current buggy.
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idProduct=2803
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idProduct=2803
#602
merciless,
try taking away front droop...through the corner this will cause the front end to saty "lower" to the ground than with the fronts raised...also, the fact that you have the white springs (the hardest) may be another reason why you can't get front traction out of the corners......go to the blues.
try taking away front droop...through the corner this will cause the front end to saty "lower" to the ground than with the fronts raised...also, the fact that you have the white springs (the hardest) may be another reason why you can't get front traction out of the corners......go to the blues.
#603
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Rod,
I would go up to 10k in the center diff (maybe 6k or 7k in the front, but do it one at a time). I'd also lose the 3* rear toe block and go to the 2.5. Not quite sure which hinge pin location you're using in the rear uprights, but use the lower hole to get a higher rear roll center.
Also how is the ride height set up on the car? Servo-saver tightened up? Did you run the car with the stock grey springs? If so, how was it compared to the stiffer whites? I'm assuming you're running the whites so that you can run a lower ride height on the grass surface.
I'm not familiar with running on grass. I run on dirt as do most guys here in the states, but we'll try to help.
Best regards,
I would go up to 10k in the center diff (maybe 6k or 7k in the front, but do it one at a time). I'd also lose the 3* rear toe block and go to the 2.5. Not quite sure which hinge pin location you're using in the rear uprights, but use the lower hole to get a higher rear roll center.
Also how is the ride height set up on the car? Servo-saver tightened up? Did you run the car with the stock grey springs? If so, how was it compared to the stiffer whites? I'm assuming you're running the whites so that you can run a lower ride height on the grass surface.
I'm not familiar with running on grass. I run on dirt as do most guys here in the states, but we'll try to help.
Best regards,
Last edited by TonysScrews; 12-05-2006 at 08:37 AM.
#604
Right Guys,
Cant take out much more droop on the front it's not got alot of up travel now i set the ride height to roughly wishbones level. With more droop out it starts to bounce over the bumps.
I'm using the white springs causing i was having alot of troubles with grip roll when using the grays i'd guess using the Blues would make this even worse.. ?
Servo savers tight yes
Thanks peps
Oh i did think of going up with the oils cause i was told that'd make the car more positive i was going to try 7-10-3 front to rear
Cant take out much more droop on the front it's not got alot of up travel now i set the ride height to roughly wishbones level. With more droop out it starts to bounce over the bumps.
I'm using the white springs causing i was having alot of troubles with grip roll when using the grays i'd guess using the Blues would make this even worse.. ?
Servo savers tight yes
Thanks peps
Oh i did think of going up with the oils cause i was told that'd make the car more positive i was going to try 7-10-3 front to rear
#605
Sorry yes the rear toe blocks to 2.5 deg's seems a good idea to me too
#606
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Hi Rod,
That's what I figured on the white springs. Yeah, the soft blues would make the traction rolling worse. The rear toe-block would be the quickest thing to change and try out. But I really think the diff oils is what you need to change. 7-10-3 or 7-10-2 should feel perfect.
Best regards,
That's what I figured on the white springs. Yeah, the soft blues would make the traction rolling worse. The rear toe-block would be the quickest thing to change and try out. But I really think the diff oils is what you need to change. 7-10-3 or 7-10-2 should feel perfect.
Best regards,
#607
does the 5r come with new rear toe plates. like 3.5 ?
#608
Thanks Tony, I'll give that a go
#610
Already moved all but 1 of the spacers to infront of the upper arm for next race meet Thought about that once i'd got home on the weekend
Thanks for the thought
Thanks for the thought
#612
Wasn't 100% sure that'd be a good idea.I've never seen anyone with different springs front to rear on there MBX5 yet, Thats not to say it wont work though. It'll deffinately give more steering as you say......
Cheers Rod
Cheers Rod
#614
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
OK,
I'm in the process of doing my MBX5-5R conversion. I should of gotten a new kit, LOL.
Anyways, what are you guys doing for an indoor setup on the car? I am absolutely in love with 5T, I hope that the 5R lives up to my hopes.
Instead of getting one of the newer ackermans that is raised up, I just got a stock MBX5 rack and cut the ears off of it and bolted it up under the 5R ackerman. I did the same with the 5T.
-Seann
I'm in the process of doing my MBX5-5R conversion. I should of gotten a new kit, LOL.
Anyways, what are you guys doing for an indoor setup on the car? I am absolutely in love with 5T, I hope that the 5R lives up to my hopes.
Instead of getting one of the newer ackermans that is raised up, I just got a stock MBX5 rack and cut the ears off of it and bolted it up under the 5R ackerman. I did the same with the 5T.
-Seann
#615
question
whats the differece between the prospect versoin 2 the R version?