RYAN BARNES

I agree with TS, I own a couple of each kind of pipe, both polished and hardcoated, and there doesn't seem to be a noticeable performance difference. The polished gives a nice "bling" effect, but dulls quickly and is hard to clean once fuel and dirt have baked on it. Where as the coated pipes seem to clean off fairly easy with some WD-40 and a Scotch-brite pad.

Capelracer

iTrader: (3)

Hi, I'm new to this nitro stuff & have a query or two:
Clutch springs & shoes - the kit comes with 1.0 springs, my lhs guy is recommending 1.1's (he races on-road nitro, but has nothing to do with the off-road guys). Any suggestions?? Also I remember reading somewhere that carbon clutch shoes were 'better' than the aluminium ones - any thoughts on that one.

If it makes any difference, our local track is a clay/dirt combo - holeshots (for electric) & crime fighters are the preferred tyres.

RYAN BARNES

The 1.0 springs will give you a smoother power transfer, with the 1.1 spings you have to be higher in the RPM before they let the clutch engage, so your car will have alot more of the "on/off" effect, which can be real tricky especially if the track conditions get loose. Personally I always run the 1.0 springs and aluminum shoes.

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Same here, always Mugen alum and 1.0's.

I use AvidRC metal shielded 5x10mm bearings ($1 a piece). Just blow them out with a compressor to get rid of excess grease and the clutch will last 2-1/2 to 3 gallons. Of course you need to remove the shoes periodically to de-burr them.

SpeedBump57

I'm with Tony so +1

I also use the Sprotwerks Alum 7075. The blue ones and have had real good luck with those as well.

RYAN BARNES

I have ran the blue Sportwerks shoes with the Mugen 1.0 springs as well, and it works just fine.

Crim3Wav3

iTrader: (8)

hmm...to add a second opinion to the Sheep.

I use Mugen 1.1 and the Mugen plastic (carbonized plastic?) shoes in a Meidal Pro M2K (essentially a 4 port torque monster) and my bearing life has gone up (due to less heat buildup and transferal) and the bottom end has been smoothed out to where its actually drivable! I was tired of going through 1 set of Mugen aluminums every other weekend. But that is my driving style, im told.....

tcmerf

Just finished my marothon build session. Does any body have a good baseline set up for ARC in Murrieta? Cant wait to try the car, its my first 1/8 buggy I figuered i should start with the best!

793bob

hi everyone

last year i ran a mayhem rtr but this year i want to do alot more racing.i would like to here your comments on the mbx5r. is it a durable buggy,easy to drive and any issues with the mugen buggies at all.i am also looking at a hyper 8.does the mbx5r use different blocks for tuning like the hyper 8 and are they included in the kit.

thanks bob

cornerspeed

IMO, the car needs lighter diff oil's then what it calls for. I would start with 5-5-1 with no small o-rings and 2 gaskets. Also run 400 wt. front and 350 wt. rear. You may also want to try the plastic rear hub carriers(they get better rear traction). Maximum front kick-up for steering balance. I am still testing there for the best tire combination also.

in2deep

iTrader: (13)

wasup everyone,

im just getting back into 1/8 offroad and i have an mbx-5,i want to know if i can get the new 5r chassis to replace the original 5 chassis.and im going to buy the upgraded pcs to turn it into a mbx-5r since i already have the buggy as is mint and has new threaded shocks and rimes and tires new.can anyone let me know if it is a direct fit or?

RYAN BARNES

Unless your chassis is in bad shape I would suggest you just keep running the one you got, the big changes in the R have to do with the complete suspension (shocks, towers, arms, etc...) So I would just get the upgrade kit from CarolinasRC and mount it all on your current buggy.

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idProduct=2803

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Hi Ryan,

Good talking to you the other day. Drop me an email at [email protected]

Best regards,

Merciless

Guys, Dont forget the CarolinasRC conversion although very good DOSEN'T include any of the new steering parts. I believe that to be a huge omission as it's bound to be alot of the reason the new car is reported to turn much better than the older MBX5. So make sure you pick up those parts also if you do a conversion !!

Merciless

Looking for help curing the horrendous mid and exit corner push my MBX5 has

Current set-up

Diff Oils 5-7-2 front - rear

front

std width
white springs
shocks mounted out on the wishbone and 2nd hole from inside on the tower
30wt oil 1.5piston
upper arms in the high position
1 small shim infront of the upper arm the rest behind (thinking of changing this to all infront .... more caster)
lower arms per the manual
spacer infont of lower arm
std anti roll bar
ackerman rear (aggressive position)

Rear

White springs
Shock mounted outer most top and bottom
30wt oil 1.5piston
3deg toe in block
front hindge pin in upper location
rear hubs mounted so bearing are closest to hindge pin
upper arms mounted outside top on the hub and inner bottom on the tower

track is all grass fairly high grip

Car seems good apart from after "getting into" the corner it has no front end bite at all, you just got to wait off power until it's turned enough that you can power on again, But there no chance of "driving" through the corner as it'll push wide

I was consideering moving the front lower shock mounting in on the wishbone but am concerned it'll start to "hook" mid corner then ??

Ah, please dont get me wrong it's not a million miles off as is, it was still good enough to set FTQ, but it's not right....... it pushes mid corner on badly

Cheers Rod