R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-25-2006, 03:05 PM   #586
Tech Regular
 
RYAN BARNES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bardstown,KY
Posts: 365
Default

I agree with TS, I own a couple of each kind of pipe, both polished and hardcoated, and there doesn't seem to be a noticeable performance difference. The polished gives a nice "bling" effect, but dulls quickly and is hard to clean once fuel and dirt have baked on it. Where as the coated pipes seem to clean off fairly easy with some WD-40 and a Scotch-brite pad.
RYAN BARNES is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2006, 03:26 PM   #587
Tech Regular
 
Capelracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Bunbury, West Oz
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Hi, I'm new to this nitro stuff & have a query or two:
Clutch springs & shoes - the kit comes with 1.0 springs, my lhs guy is recommending 1.1's (he races on-road nitro, but has nothing to do with the off-road guys). Any suggestions?? Also I remember reading somewhere that carbon clutch shoes were 'better' than the aluminium ones - any thoughts on that one.

If it makes any difference, our local track is a clay/dirt combo - holeshots (for electric) & crime fighters are the preferred tyres.
Capelracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2006, 08:39 PM   #588
Tech Regular
 
RYAN BARNES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bardstown,KY
Posts: 365
Default

The 1.0 springs will give you a smoother power transfer, with the 1.1 spings you have to be higher in the RPM before they let the clutch engage, so your car will have alot more of the "on/off" effect, which can be real tricky especially if the track conditions get loose. Personally I always run the 1.0 springs and aluminum shoes.
RYAN BARNES is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 09:48 AM   #589
Tech Master
 
TonysScrews's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,660
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Same here, always Mugen alum and 1.0's.

I use AvidRC metal shielded 5x10mm bearings ($1 a piece). Just blow them out with a compressor to get rid of excess grease and the clutch will last 2-1/2 to 3 gallons. Of course you need to remove the shoes periodically to de-burr them.
__________________
Tony P.

Tonys Screws LLC
http://www.tonysscrews.com
High Grade Alloy Steel Screws, Screw Kits and Mugen Parts
TonysScrews is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 10:34 AM   #590
Tech Addict
 
SpeedBump57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 660
Default

I'm with Tony so +1

I also use the Sprotwerks Alum 7075. The blue ones and have had real good luck with those as well.
SpeedBump57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 11:06 AM   #591
Tech Regular
 
RYAN BARNES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bardstown,KY
Posts: 365
Default

I have ran the blue Sportwerks shoes with the Mugen 1.0 springs as well, and it works just fine.
RYAN BARNES is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2006, 02:52 PM   #592
Tech Addict
 
Crim3Wav3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MasshoL3
Posts: 715
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

hmm...to add a second opinion to the Sheep.

I use Mugen 1.1 and the Mugen plastic (carbonized plastic?) shoes in a Meidal Pro M2K (essentially a 4 port torque monster) and my bearing life has gone up (due to less heat buildup and transferal) and the bottom end has been smoothed out to where its actually drivable! I was tired of going through 1 set of Mugen aluminums every other weekend. But that is my driving style, im told.....
Crim3Wav3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2006, 12:24 PM   #593
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lake Elsinore, ca
Posts: 873
Default

Just finished my marothon build session. Does any body have a good baseline set up for ARC in Murrieta? Cant wait to try the car, its my first 1/8 buggy I figuered i should start with the best!
__________________
FT B44 - FT J82
LRP TC SPHERE - Futaba Fasst
Orion Lipo & Vortex motors
" Go that way really fast, if something gets in your way, turn"
tcmerf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2006, 12:50 PM   #594
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 22
Default

hi everyone

last year i ran a mayhem rtr but this year i want to do alot more racing.i would like to here your comments on the mbx5r. is it a durable buggy,easy to drive and any issues with the mugen buggies at all.i am also looking at a hyper 8.does the mbx5r use different blocks for tuning like the hyper 8 and are they included in the kit.

thanks bob
793bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2006, 01:13 PM   #595
Tech Elite
 
cornerspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,388
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcmerf
Just finished my marothon build session. Does any body have a good baseline set up for ARC in Murrieta? Cant wait to try the car, its my first 1/8 buggy I figuered i should start with the best!
IMO, the car needs lighter diff oil's then what it calls for. I would start with 5-5-1 with no small o-rings and 2 gaskets. Also run 400 wt. front and 350 wt. rear. You may also want to try the plastic rear hub carriers(they get better rear traction). Maximum front kick-up for steering balance. I am still testing there for the best tire combination also.
__________________
Donny Vinkemulder
TLR Driver
TLR 8ight 3.0 - NovarossiUSA - Spektrum DX3R Pro - Losi Nitrotane VP 30% - Losi Lipo Batteries - Proline Tires - DE Racing - EKD Paint
--- Special thanks to: Dyno, Adam, Todd, and Kevin. Horizon Hobby
cornerspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 05:19 PM   #596
Tech Addict
 
in2deep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: kissimmee,fl
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Talking mbx-5

wasup everyone,

im just getting back into 1/8 offroad and i have an mbx-5,i want to know if i can get the new 5r chassis to replace the original 5 chassis.and im going to buy the upgraded pcs to turn it into a mbx-5r since i already have the buggy as is mint and has new threaded shocks and rimes and tires new.can anyone let me know if it is a direct fit or?
in2deep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 05:36 PM   #597
Tech Regular
 
RYAN BARNES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bardstown,KY
Posts: 365
Default

Unless your chassis is in bad shape I would suggest you just keep running the one you got, the big changes in the R have to do with the complete suspension (shocks, towers, arms, etc...) So I would just get the upgrade kit from CarolinasRC and mount it all on your current buggy.

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idProduct=2803
RYAN BARNES is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 06:09 PM   #598
Tech Master
 
TonysScrews's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,660
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hi Ryan,

Good talking to you the other day. Drop me an email at tony@tony1034.com

Best regards,
__________________
Tony P.

Tonys Screws LLC
http://www.tonysscrews.com
High Grade Alloy Steel Screws, Screw Kits and Mugen Parts
TonysScrews is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2006, 12:43 AM   #599
Tech Master
 
Merciless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: UK
Posts: 1,027
Send a message via ICQ to Merciless
Default

Guys, Dont forget the CarolinasRC conversion although very good DOSEN'T include any of the new steering parts. I believe that to be a huge omission as it's bound to be alot of the reason the new car is reported to turn much better than the older MBX5. So make sure you pick up those parts also if you do a conversion !!
Merciless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2006, 01:09 AM   #600
Tech Master
 
Merciless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: UK
Posts: 1,027
Send a message via ICQ to Merciless
Default

Looking for help curing the horrendous mid and exit corner push my MBX5 has

Current set-up

Diff Oils 5-7-2 front - rear

front

std width
white springs
shocks mounted out on the wishbone and 2nd hole from inside on the tower
30wt oil 1.5piston
upper arms in the high position
1 small shim infront of the upper arm the rest behind (thinking of changing this to all infront .... more caster)
lower arms per the manual
spacer infont of lower arm
std anti roll bar
ackerman rear (aggressive position)

Rear

White springs
Shock mounted outer most top and bottom
30wt oil 1.5piston
3deg toe in block
front hindge pin in upper location
rear hubs mounted so bearing are closest to hindge pin
upper arms mounted outside top on the hub and inner bottom on the tower

track is all grass fairly high grip

Car seems good apart from after "getting into" the corner it has no front end bite at all, you just got to wait off power until it's turned enough that you can power on again, But there no chance of "driving" through the corner as it'll push wide

I was consideering moving the front lower shock mounting in on the wishbone but am concerned it'll start to "hook" mid corner then ??

Ah, please dont get me wrong it's not a million miles off as is, it was still good enough to set FTQ, but it's not right....... it pushes mid corner on badly

Cheers Rod
Merciless is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS Mugen MBX5-T Prospec & MBX5-R Both less than 3 gallons! V-Spec Less than 1 gallon! ffpm46 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 20 08-01-2008 06:27 PM
whats the difference mbx5 prospec / mbx5 r lynell90 Nitro Off-Road 6 04-24-2008 02:31 PM
Mugen MBX5 Electric Conversion, MBX5 and MBX5R Spare Parts! Cain R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 18 04-10-2008 03:16 PM
Mugen MBX5, MBX5 Pro Spec, MBX5R Differences Cain Nitro Off-Road 12 10-01-2007 10:35 AM
MBX5 or MBX5 PROSPEC? Realworld differences? Jeel Electric Off-Road 5 12-05-2004 07:46 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:29 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net