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Old 01-03-2006, 06:53 AM   #46
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There are a few 12t clutch bells out there that use 5x10 bearings. I think Sportwerks has one and they can also be purchased through Andy Brown at www.cmdracing.com.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:20 AM   #47
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Im looking for some ti. screws for my MBX5. Does anone know a company other then Mugen that sells them?
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:24 AM   #48
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Also I am changing from a Jammin to Mugen this year. Have not ran it yet so I kind of need a good base setup. I am located in a region 5 (Kentucky, OH, and WV) area. Which I run at outdoor tracks.
If anyone has a link or advice it would be a great help.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:43 AM   #49
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Keyracer, check out www.mugenracing.com for setups. Most like the 04' Nats setup that Jason Ashton used. If you have the updated steering knuckles it's a good idea to go up to 400cps oil in the front (32.5-35wt in english weights) as the extra steering throw can make for twichy steering with the lighter oil.

I don't know where ti screws can be found (maybe rcscrewz.com?) but the car is fairly light out of the box (standard MBX5). Chad Bradley used to use a 2500mah rx battery because he liked the extra weight in the rear of the car.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:49 AM   #50
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Thanks for the setup info.

I want the Ti. screw because they dont rust. Its just a plus in many different ways.

I may not need it now that I have a air compresser. Last year when I washed my buggy with the water holes. The water would build up in the screw holes and rust. (electronics pulled before spay down)
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:52 AM   #51
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Careful with the compressed air. I learned a hard lesson last year when I had bearing seizures in the gear case (center drive shaft) two weeks in a row. It seems that I had blown the bearings dry over time. Didn't see that happen to one other guy last year.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:53 AM   #52
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Thanks Davidka for the link on the bells.If I go that route, that will put me in the gear range i'm looking for.Just to bring it up earlier in this post people were talking about the "new" front end parts, to do this properly if you have an older mugen mbx-5 you need to get the lower a-arm and steering knuckles along with the new cvd's that are 3mm longer than the old ones to avoid the shafts poping out of the drive cups. Just changing the lower arms or just the knuckles will not give you more steering.You have to change both and then you stock front cvd's can pop out of the drive cups under ceartain conditions so you need to go to the updated bones that are 3mm longer
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:57 AM   #53
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I never heard about the air compresser drying out engine bearings.
I WILL keep that in mind.
My question is how does the air get to the bearing if the flywheel goes over the outside crank bearing?
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:11 PM   #54
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Not engine beariings. They are continuously lubed by the oil in the fuel. In my case it was the bearings that support the pinion in the front and rear gearcases (front one week, rear the next).

I have used the arms and knuckles with the stock CVDs with no ill effect. I remember the 3mm bones coming out before the arms and knuckles. I think they did because guys were running the front track width at 277mm plus. I run @ 275mm and have never had one pop out. I'll be bumming when it eventually happens.
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:18 PM   #55
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Ohhh my bad

I never had that problem with my Jammin last year. Are the bearings not sealed? That is not a high spray area for me at the track anyway. I mostly focus on the shocks and hinge pins.

I could see that being a problem when I "wash" the buggy and will be spraying the excess water off with air. Do you think a good idea would be put a few drops of bearing oil on them after cleaning?
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:50 PM   #56
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Stock Mugen bearings are rubber shielded. I never pointed the nozzle directly at the bearings but I did hit the area of the chassis and I guess that did it over a long enough period. Like I said, I never saw it happen to anybody else so it must have been the way I was using that air compressor.
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:14 PM   #57
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Thanks davidka,you know you can buy just the bones if you want to run at a wider track width, I know that the car definently handles better at a wider track or so I thought.What are your thoughts on the track width?
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Old 01-04-2006, 09:33 PM   #58
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I just got done rebuilding my Prospec and got some new trick parts on it. My KFactory chassis came in along with my Mugen carbon fiber stone guards. Makes the buggy look awesome. Also can't wait to get my CP 2.0 painted, sending it out tomorrow to a friend to paint. Hopefully I can get some pics soon so yall can drool all over them.
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:02 PM   #59
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276mm and 277mm are what I see the pros specing on their setups. I think mine's at 274-275. Honestly I'm don't think I'd notice 2mm's (I just noticed that the camber on my b4 was different from side to side )but maybe I'll try it. If it works much better than I'll get the 3mm longer bones. I think I'm lucky too, I have a friend who claimed he couldn't keep his bones in but I've never had a problem.
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Old 01-05-2006, 09:34 AM   #60
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what is everyone one running in there diff's for oils some input will help..

plus nitro what are you running for the swamp????
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