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Old 11-01-2006, 05:01 PM   #541
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Thanks Ryan, that's some detailed explanation there. I agree now with what you have. What I posted earlier is what Mugen told me. I know I can't most of the time trust a manufacturer and never really trust a Team Driver what they say.
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:13 PM   #542
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couple of q'n's

1.on the new style shocks, does the oil go black after a few runs like the old shocks did?

2. front uprights on the 5r, are they the same as the lasts generation updates fron the mbx5


3. front upper arms, is the geometry the same as the old upper arm. i always dremeled my old upper arm anyway. is it the same in terms of lenght and angle?
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:15 PM   #543
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LOL, Thanks Don, I wasn't going against anyone's word or choices, I just like to look into things myself and see what I come up with. If anyone has anything else their curious about or just wanting explained a little clearer just post up. I know the picture descriptions really help, especially when you hear of people making adjustments that one might be unfamiliar with.
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:18 PM   #544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ira
A friend had a Jammin, he said the back of the car was to hooked up. No doubt the Jammin is a good car, he now own's a MBX5R and he can not believe how much more corner speed the Mugen has over the Jammin.

We have been working on the same thing with the rear of the car, I have found the 3 deg. toe block works very good. Also use 0 deg. anti-squat, if your rear lower arms are more flat(front insert at lower position) it will keep the car from stepping out when intering a corner.
Here is a set up I used this past week end.
We are REALLY close on set up and I do currently use that 3 degree toe block with 0 anti squat. I need to get this thing on a clock before I go making judgements on how fast it is, I just know what I would like to see out of the car at the pace it's at now. I need more rear side bite.

One thing I think this car does very well is forward drive and jumping. It seems to have a ton of lift off jumps. I'm way over jumping things I used to have trouble with when driving my Jammin. If I can get the rear end gathered up I'll be very happy with the car.
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:25 PM   #545
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R1- The new "R" shocks come with a hardened coating in them, and thus far seem to be holding up really well, and not all the "blackened oil" as with the old version. As for the front arms, both the top and bottom arms work out to be the same, "as far as position and angles" as the old arms, it's just that the new arms are made a little different. Such as the tops having the steep arch in the rear to clear the ackerman arm while turning in air at full droop. And the bottom arms are thicker and better braced, and notched out more on the bottom to allow for all of the down travel the new kit has. As for front uprights, they appear the same, with maybe a little thicker bracing leading out to the steering links.
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:31 PM   #546
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ccs77- Try the MBX5T wing mount kit that I refered to on the previous page. This along with 3 degrees camber in the rear and the 2.75 toe block, rear camber links (top outside on hub, middle inside on tower), and going against what someone posted earlier, put the pivot bushings that are at the front of your rear arm hinge pins in the "TOP" hole, so that your arms are more tilted back. Have your rear hubs spaced mainly forward, with only the 1mm spacer in front of the hub. This will stabalize your rear end problem. Give it a try and post back.

Last edited by RYAN BARNES; 11-01-2006 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 11-01-2006, 08:07 PM   #547
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I agree with Barnes, I tried the 2.5 and 2.75 but feel the 3 is better for me. I also like the insert in front of the rear in the middle, but that's just what feels good to me. The hub pins try in upper of the two holes. Sounds like everyone is in "trial" phase with the new car. Good to see the Mugen guys working together.
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Old 11-01-2006, 11:11 PM   #548
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on 5R - the servo saver tensioin is the 1.5mm suggested. is this enough? or do more like 3mm?
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:36 AM   #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueR1
on 5R - the servo saver tensioin is the 1.5mm suggested. is this enough? or do more like 3mm?
The guys at our track have been blowing servos left and right with this new MBX5R servo saver (the one with the top mounted preload collar). I would se it at 1mm and try it first. Since it's right on top and easily changed you can always tighten it down. Better than replacing a $100 servo every weekend.
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:15 AM   #550
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On the servo saver tube, polish it and use a dry lube (I use Dow 557 from Mcmaster). Mine is slicker than snot..LOL No issues here on my MBX5T (uses same servo-saver as MBX5R).

Ryan,
I got your package, thanks. Sorry I haven't been in touch. Just been CRAZY busy. Good to see you running the R a lot and providing feedback. It sucks here in NJ. Racing is pretty much done for the year. Last race is the Turkey race at Checkerboards in south central NJ. PA and CT are done .

Best regards,
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:12 AM   #551
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I think loosening the servo saver collar so it is at 1 will definately go easier on the servos but might hamper your steering a little. I personally like Tony's idea, but I use a belray grease on mine. It probably atracts dirt more so then what Tony is using. But I've never had any servo problems on any of my Mugens. What servos are you guys seeing blow???
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:32 AM   #552
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What part of the servo is breaking?
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:47 AM   #553
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We all run Futaba 9351 servos. I don't know what part is breaking. I asume gears are stripping. I don't mess with fixing it myself I just send them back to Futaba.

I might try the Aluminum servo saver, it might stay slick on it's own. Dry lube is a good idea, I need to get some for my pivot balls anyway. Where do you get it from?
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:32 AM   #554
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I'm running JRs and have never had a problem...
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Old 11-04-2006, 07:58 PM   #555
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i just bought a mbx5r for my son, its our first 1/8 buggy, man it has alot of parts. The only thing that is bothering me about it is the servo saver seems to have alot of up and down movement, is this normal or should i mill the post to take some of the play out of it?
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