maddog9

iTrader: (30)

More stability in straight line. Supposedly its suppose to be smoother mid corner. For me It gave me more initial steering. If you do the 4 degrees toe out make sure to reset your end points.

The hd cases were created when losi had an issue with the plastic being too soft in the diffs. The crosspins would actually cut into the plastic and eventually if it got super bad the spider gears could actually rotate around on the cross pins 360 degrees. The newest 3.0 and 4.0 standard diffs have been fantastic and have had no issues with the cross pins cutting in. If you have a 3.0/4.0 I would use the standard ones. If you have 2.0 or older diffs use the HD.

artur72

MADDOG9 you are awesome, thanks for help.

I drive 4.0, but i have another completed diff with hd case. It is easier to install everything at home with different oil, and on the track replace whole diff. Still I discovered what best setup for our track. So I wanted to know if I'm losing something with hd case.

rjkotzur

how are yall mounting your transponders, in the box? if so how do you get it to fit, pictures maybe?

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

Yep in the box. I run a futaba radio so the receivers arent too big and I also run the newer mylaps transponder. Pretty much stuff it all in the box. its definitely not clean looking. Just make sure no wire get caught in the pinch points.

fbrk8r

iTrader: (3)

Yeah. I run mine in the box with a little bit of foam under the electronics.

Rico54

iTrader: (2)

Same here

token

In the receiver box. I just stuff it in there on the side. But this depends on your receiver and length of servo wires. I have a tiny spektrum reciever and short spektrum wires from the servo so i have plenty of room

Rico54

iTrader: (2)

So, is there any reports on the tuning kit? Has anyone race with it and if it made the buggy better on the track? What are the pro's and con's?

Thanks

Cyberlawyer

Well I have Losi 8ight with the tuning kit as well as a box stock 8ight for comparison purposes (both cars running same motor/servos/receiver) so I suppose my opinion is as valid as anyones. My thoughts are below.

Wing Mount
Not a lot to say here. It's a wing mount with the option to use either screws or body clips. I never had a problem with the old mount, but it's pretty inexpensive so if it matters for you then great.

Wheel Nuts
Pointless unless you have the magnetic wheel wrench, which I don't.

Locking Servo Saver Collar
It's a nice touch but hardly earth shattering. For everyone I know its a set and forget item and we all threadlock it anyway.

Universals
Its a tuning option. I can see the advantage on really bumpy tracks where the tendancy for CVA's to try and 'level out' under hard acceleration would be a problem (I'm sure this was why they were used at the Vegas worlds). For smooth tracks CVAs are probably better. For everything in between (most places I race on) it's a question of feel and I can't detect a big difference.

Breaks
They look amazing for a start. I never had a problem with the raw stopping power of the stock breaks, but the new ones are obviously more progressive for gentle breaking. The pads are however pretty thin and replacements are very expensive. I guess it depends on how long they last as to if I replace them or go back to the much cheeper stock option.

Body and Wing
Unless you want to drill some holes in the wing to reduce downforce these probably need to be used as a pair as seperatly you get a slight unballanced effect (particularly noticable in how the car wants to nose up or down in jumps). Certainly a good option on fast open tracks where the surface is loose and you are looking for extra grip. Wing is pretty durable as far as lexan wings go, but it is very expensive (in the UK I can get 2 uncut proline trifector wings for less than the cost of the Losi wing).

Chassis
For me this is the biggest upgrade in the whole kit. The option to move the rear gearbox forward means you are able to tune how aggressivly the car drives and how quickly the rear rotates on the throttle. Personally I still prefer the gearbox in the rear position as its a bit less agressive, but its a cool option and will really suit some people. The extra chassis flex adds a lot of rear end traction under acceleration and a lot of lateral grip. Which is a win all round. One thing I must mention is in the kit there is a short rear chassis brace (only one screw into the chassis end). I haven't seen this available as a seperate part. I cannot under state how much impact this has on the behavior of the rear end. Again its another tuning choice and it looks like a really small thing but makes a big change. The shorter brace adds a lot of rear end grip due to the increased chassis flex. Personnaly I don't run it with the gear box in the rear position as I am concered that there would be too much flex and it would shorten the chassis life, but I wouldn't run gearbox forward without it as it makes the back end less twitchy.

P.S. I am a long long way away from being a 'good' driver by any measure, but this is just my limited experience.

Hope it helps.

JH83593

iTrader: (5)

If I am looking to upgrade my 3.0 to a 4.0, would it be better to just buy the full kit? Or could I go the route of just buying the new parts? And which parts would I need?

Also, do the 4.0 bodies fit on the 3.0 or no?

race.me

with the new clamping servo saver, I found it impossible to set it 5,5 turn out, like the old one. Could anybody give me information how its supposed to be set? Thank you

Cyberlawyer

Probably easier to buy the full kit. There are quite a lot of new parts required to convert

Chasis is tbe same size shape from the 3.0 to the 4.0 so the shells will fit but the engine has moved over so the cutout for the cooling head will be in the wrong place.

greenracing

iTrader: (1)

you can purchase the tuning kit: TLR248000
gas tank: TLR241019
Side Skirts: TLR241016
and center front dogbone: TLR242016

about the bodies... you can easily fit a 3.0 body to a 4.0.. it is the same body minus the hole for the motor heatsink.. if it is not a pre cut body you can mark the body and trim it...

cHAmpa

iTrader: (39)

I was told by TLR to install it so the bottom was flush to the chassis.

race.me

Thanks cHAmpa..so, it means with the new clamping, the servo saver will be a lot tighter then.