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Old 07-09-2016, 05:15 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:07 AM
  #961  
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Originally Posted by Rico54
Do you ever race outdoor, the track I will on is outside. Large, bumpy, big jumps with medium bite.
I appreciate the setup sheet
Yes. I do race on several larger indoor and outdoor tracks. Honestly, the setup doesn't change much if any. Keep in mind it was super cold on the day of that setup sheet. Normally shock oils will be more like 35/30.
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Old 01-06-2017, 05:56 AM
  #962  
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Originally Posted by fbrk8r
Yes. I do race on several larger indoor and outdoor tracks. Honestly, the setup doesn't change much if any. Keep in mind it was super cold on the day of that setup sheet. Normally shock oils will be more like 35/30.
And you like the emulsion setup better the bladder? When I raced my 2.0 the bladder worked great. Never heard of emulsion until now.
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Old 01-06-2017, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rico54
And you like the emulsion setup better the bladder? When I raced my 2.0 the bladder worked great. Never heard of emulsion until now.
I do like the emulsion better. Especially building them.
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:30 AM
  #964  
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i perfer emulsion too. seems when the car lands it hit the ground and sticks. no bounce from the shocks. just hits the ground dead.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:26 AM
  #965  
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Do you guy's use the DE extreme rear skid pads? I remember using them back when I had the 2.0, but don't remember if they're worth using.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:37 AM
  #966  
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Originally Posted by Rico54
Do you guy's use the DE extreme rear skid pads? I remember using them back when I had the 2.0, but don't remember if they're worth using.
You get false reading when measure ride height or you scrub speed bottom out with skid plate.
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rico54
Do you guy's use the DE extreme rear skid pads? I remember using them back when I had the 2.0, but don't remember if they're worth using.
I have been using them for a while now and have no complaints. However, I don't run them since I got the M2C chassis.
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:46 PM
  #968  
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in the book the standard set up uses insert #1 up and down. I see some pro set ups using the #0 inserts instead. now according to the book its the same amount of caster. so what I would like to know is whats the difference?
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:03 AM
  #969  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
in the book the standard set up uses insert #1 up and down. I see some pro set ups using the #0 inserts instead. now according to the book its the same amount of caster. so what I would like to know is whats the difference?
It is not the same amount of caster. The most amount of caster is 27 degrees which is (starting from the very front of the car) 1 up and 1 down. 0 and 0 is 25 degrees caster. The least amount would be (front to back) 1 down and 1 up which 23 degrees caster which i have seen on truggy setups.

My personal preference is max/most caster as it seems to be more forgiving and easiest to drive.
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Old 01-13-2017, 10:48 AM
  #970  
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Default TLR 8ight 4.0 Chassis Cracks

I've been experiencing -

a) Recurring cracks between the two front engine mount bolting points & flywheel opening (on both my previous TLR 8ight 3.0 & now on my 4.0 - initial chassis & the second chassis).
b) I did contact Horizon Hobby & they noted they are not seeing the same issue.

Has anyone else experienced similar issues? If so, were you able to come up with a solution to eliminate (short of switching to another brand) the cracks?

Perhaps this problem is due to the chassis flex (apparent from clutch bell pinion gouging of fuel tank) in addition to metal fatigue associated with heating/cooling cycles underneath engine mount? On all of my TLR vehicles that I've owned, I've noticed what appears to be considerable chassis flex... not a lot of rigidity.

If anyone has any solutions, I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails TLR 8ight 4.0-tlr-8-4.0-bottom-cracks-1.4.17.jpg   TLR 8ight 4.0-tlr-8-4.0-bottom-cracks-1.11.17.jpg   TLR 8ight 4.0-tlr-8-4.0-top-cracks-1.4.17.jpg  
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:48 PM
  #971  
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Originally Posted by Ron_RevO
I've been experiencing -

a) Recurring cracks between the two front engine mount bolting points & flywheel opening (on both my previous TLR 8ight 3.0 & now on my 4.0 - initial chassis & the second chassis).
b) I did contact Horizon Hobby & they noted they are not seeing the same issue.

Has anyone else experienced similar issues? If so, were you able to come up with a solution to eliminate (short of switching to another brand) the cracks?

Perhaps this problem is due to the chassis flex (apparent from clutch bell pinion gouging of fuel tank) in addition to metal fatigue associated with heating/cooling cycles underneath engine mount? On all of my TLR vehicles that I've owned, I've noticed what appears to be considerable chassis flex... not a lot of rigidity.

If anyone has any solutions, I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
I have seen that once or twice and experienced it on another brand myself (Ofna Jammin Truggy but it was fixed with their "Z" brace)
Yes its from chassis flexing in that area. Which begs me to ask, do you come up short on a lot of jumps? Do a lot of lawn darts? Flat bottom a lot? What chassis braces are you running? If its the aluminum ones...theres your problem. They look good, but are too stiff and cause issues ( DING DING DING!!!). Are you running any other aftermarket parts on the car? Motor mount? Center diff mount?
After almost 15 years with Losi, and 20 or so 8 series vehicles... I have yet to do this myself. I think you need to get a job in the testing/ durability department
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:52 PM
  #972  
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Originally Posted by Jerm13
I have seen that once or twice and experienced it on another brand myself (Ofna Jammin Truggy but it was fixed with their "Z" brace)
Yes its from chassis flexing in that area. Which begs me to ask, do you come up short on a lot of jumps? Do a lot of lawn darts? Flat bottom a lot? What chassis braces are you running? If its the aluminum ones...theres your problem. They look good, but are too stiff and cause issues ( DING DING DING!!!). Are you running any other aftermarket parts on the car? Motor mount? Center diff mount?
After almost 15 years with Losi, and 20 or so 8 series vehicles... I have yet to do this myself. I think you need to get a job in the testing/ durability department
Hah... I don't run any structural aluminum parts other than the TLR servo saver top plate, all other structural components are kit/stock. The only thing I can think to do at this point is to stiffen up my suspension a bit, I can't think of anything else.

I've ordered another chassis & some other goodies to get the vehicle properly sorted out & back on track for some club racing.
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Old 01-14-2017, 09:31 PM
  #973  
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I don't know and this is only a thought, but is it possible to be putting to much downward pressure on the starter box flexing the chassis.
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:11 AM
  #974  
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Originally Posted by Ron_RevO
Hah... I don't run any structural aluminum parts other than the TLR servo saver top plate, all other structural components are kit/stock. The only thing I can think to do at this point is to stiffen up my suspension a bit, I can't think of anything else.

I've ordered another chassis & some other goodies to get the vehicle properly sorted out & back on track for some club racing.


Weird...I don't know what to tell you.
You could look and try to find a King Headz extended QC motor mount. Other than that, run it till if breaks in half
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:55 PM
  #975  
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After 7 long years I pulled the trigger and bought a Losi 4.0 last Tuesday and put on the track on Sunday. What a blast it was to be on the track. I'm a little rusty, but I'm sure it will come back fast.

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