Chris M.

Just wondering about the cen springs. I have an FRE and im currently running the cen big bores and am using the blues right now but i saw that there is a green, is green stiffer or softer?

meno222

iTrader: (14)

iam runnin 5 5 2 in the diffs. 40wt front shocks with blue springs,35wt with blue springs rear shocks,today i went to the track and used the rear hole in the ackerman plate and still was going wide. i hardly have brakes, my nephew told me to use breaks to make the buggy slide into the turn. is this correct.

madmaxx

iTrader: (1)

i need some help finding outdrive's for the c/d anyone know where to look?

thnx

Chris M.

Your best bet is ebay or amainhobbies.

BTW my matrix FRE is for sale its in new condition new internals in the diffs. It has almost every part for it. Shock shafts hubs arms diff stuff tony screw kit also have some stiffer springs for it also. no tires just roller. PM me if interested i have a good trader ratings on a few other sites. Just let me know and i can send them to you.

TRArena

if you mean the brake outdrives youcan get them here -

http://www.cenracingdirect.com/index...ROD&ProdID=358

and as someone else suggested there's always some floating around on ebay - normally a complete diff set up for reasonable prices.

meno222

iTrader: (14)

are the blue springs on the matrix fre consider soft,medium or hard
thanks

TRArena

In comparison to other springs the blues would be a soft/med spring. The greens are a little harder.

meno222

iTrader: (14)

on the servo saver spring and nut. how high should the nut be.on my car is all the way down.what is the purpose for the nut, what does it control.just trying to learn as much as possible. thanks

DeastyBoy

iTrader: (2)

The nut on the bottom of the servo saver determines how much compression is on the spring. This will in turn affect how much force the servo saver will take before 'giving'.

Most people will run the nut with about 4-6mm of threads below it.

Although on the buggy that is a guess, I'm JUST running mine for the first time in a couple weeks. I've run the truggy with this setup in the past and it worked well.

G/L and welcome to the CEN crew!

TRArena

DB is spot on with the purpose. On your matrix you want the bottom of the adjusting nut to be 5-6mm above the chassis. Any more and you risk the servo saver not "breaking" when a sudden force is placed on the steering assembly (like landing on the side of one wheel off a jump) and potentially causing damage to your servo; any less and you may find your steering lacks some responsiveness. If you have not upgraded from the stock Skyion steering servo then that would be one of the first tings I would do with your car.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Well guys, here is the little race report.

Chilean Nationals, stage 3.

(previous results, first stage = 4th, second stage didnt raced due to motorcycle accident).

I asked for doctor permission to race and he told me to race as much i can take pain if the pain appears, so i headed to the track today morning.

Qualifying. The car (remember, its a R2 RTR) worked very very good, and i ended only making minor adjustments to test out. The track its very very tight and twisty with high and rithmic jumping. After first and second rounds of 3 of qualifying i was in 5th position overall and as you kill your worst round i was kind of comfortable on that spot and was just about to not race the last round but i decided to give a try with a little change on the setup and wow, made the first place and ended on 3rd place overall.

Finals (A-Main : 40 minutes). The start of the race was a little complicated due to high traffic, all 10 drivers racing very very tight and on the edge. After 5 minutes i was in 7th place due to a bad mistake but on good pace, so by minute 10 i took 4th place and by minute 20 i took the lead. I cant tell how good the car was working on the track, and BAAAMMMM i receive a bad hit on the rear and broke the wing support by minute 21 and by minute 22 the wing completely came off (stop and go penalty to the driver but well, it killed me). First time ever racing without a wing, accelerating a lot on jumps to cover the nose down desire of the car ... i drove and maintained the first place for 12 minutes without the wing and finally on minute 34 of 40 out of nothing the screw that secures the clutchbell FELL OFF !!! ... DAAAMNNNN ... that was all for me and ended 7th .

Now i have strange feeling, im very dissapointed by my result (specially because im feeling a lot of pain in my arm and came out of the race with no good result) but at the same time im very very happy with the car, wich performed awesome.

Here my setup :

Car : CEN Matrix R2 "RTR"
Upgrades : Rear toe in piece T2S2, MX27 Aluminum Upper Plate and aluminum Chassis Braces front and rear, Avid RC Brake Discs

Engine : Go Engines 7 ports .21 with 7mm restrictor (08:45 minutes runtime)
Pipe : Go Engines EFRA 0801 Pipe
Clutch : Ultimate Racing 0.95 Compaq Clutch
Shocks : Jammin Super Big Bore (waiting for the R2 Pro Shocks)
Tires : VP PRO 804 Turbo Trax Flexx Compound

Differentials : 3.000 - 3.000 - 1.000 (F/C/R), Ultimate Racing Silicones
Shocks Fluids : 45 / 35 (F/R), Ultimate Racing Silicones
Shock Springs : Jammin Silvers Front and Rear
Shock Positions Front : Upper Middle on Tower, Lower Inside on Arm
Shock Positions Rear : Upper Middle on Tower, Lower Outside on Arm

Front Toe : 1,5º Out
Rear Toe : 2º In

Front Camber : 1º Negative
Rear Camber : 2º Negative

Front Low Arms Leveled
Rear Low Arms Leveled
Brake Bias : Aprox. 60% - 40% (F/R) on Avid Indo Phenolic Discs for CEN

Body : Ultimate Racing Mugen Body
Wing : VP PRO WN-005-W


Sorry guys no pics or vids this time

cya, i have to take an overdose of pain killers right now for my arm lol !!

pinky2252s

iTrader: (4)

Is there a pull start that will fit the Matrix's Corsa 28 otherthen the stock one? The starter shaft that goes into the OWB looks like all the others...

ILDRVR

Tabushi (or anyone else)...How different is your current setup from your base setup on the old car? Diff oils?? What ackerman hole do you use?

What do you notice is the biggest handling differences between the two buggies?

Thanks

infernotb

I am looking for a truggy and have seen one of these for sale and want some feedback as to if they are any good. I just want something to run at club level as a second class. It has the following parts

Factory Race chassis
Dace wheel adapters to convert your truggy to a 17mm hex to give you a much better wheel and tyre choice
CNC 7075 ali upgrades on suspension plates
CNC 7075 ali front steering knuckles
CNC 7075 aircraft grade aluminium Engine Mounts
CNC 7075 aircraft grade aluminium Ackerman steering plate
CNC 7075 aircraft grade aluminium front lower suspension plate
CNC 7075 aircraft grade aluminium front and rear upper turnbuckles
CNC aluminium Cen FRE centre diff brace
CNC aluminium Cen FRE brace post
Kosho lightened centre rear and centre front drive train universals
lightened 66T spur gear
The motor is a Force .21 rear exhaust in excellent condition (heaps of compression) and hardly used, maybe 2 ltrs total.

New FRE vented clutch bell, new Cen FRE ali clutch shoes, springs and bearings were also fitted along with a new team lossi sports pipe and header.

thanks.

racer12306

So would it be safe to say that the R2 is a great budget minded buggy that is strong enough to take some beatings?

That is what it seems to me. Looks like it has a little more gear than the C-1, could put a different clutch bell on it to lower that down to the C-1 and gain some speed. Doubt it needs the gear with such a large engine.