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Old 06-06-2007, 08:50 AM   #421
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We are having a CEN Summer Sale for the month of June - $50 off all CEN Kits and Parts orders of $200 or more.

Call or e-mail to order.

http://www.machinesrchobbies.com
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:30 PM   #422
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I have the new hardened cross pin kits in stock now.

Machinesrchobbies@hotmail.com
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:43 PM   #423
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A couple questions:

Is there a better setup then the mx204 bushing (steering brace) that gets sloppy?
Do the shocks put out a lot of excess material that contaminates the oil? My oil looks like hell after only a few tanks.
Where do you trim exactly to get more steering throw?
Does your lower brake arm rub on the diff?
Out of all the popular pipes available, whichs ones are the most quiet?

thanks
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Old 06-08-2007, 05:19 AM   #424
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for the steering I've seen people use two flanges bearings, and a regular bolt and nut, but I think on the buggy there might be some clearnace issues maybe? and the flange off the bearing will tend to break, what I do is leave out the washer they tell you to put between the akerman plate and the servo saver bellcranks, this lets the bolt thread in a little bit further, and it doens't get as sloppy,

how old are your shocks? if they are fairly new, the oil will get nasty looking until they break in, the CEN shocks seem to take a few race days to fully break in, but after that mine are still fairly clean after a few races,

you can grind down the C-hub where the knuckle hits, just crank the knuckle over and see where it touches, and grind it till you get the throw you want, one question thoguh are you using the stock silver cast knuckles or the machine red ones?? the machined ones will give you more throw without doing any work, and if that still isn't enough, you could grind out the knuckles where they hit the C-hub, but I would only do this to the machined ones, I dont think the cast would hold up very long if you took the extra meat off them,

I'm not sure about the brake arm, I use a dynamite set up, I think the stock one is similar to a TTR thgouh, and on those you could rotate the arm until it cleared, it didn't affect the linkage movement, and gave it that extra room to clear the diff,

and I have no idea what pipe is the quietest, I've never really payed attention to it at all, I would think a 3 chamber one would be thgouh??
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Old 06-08-2007, 04:35 PM   #425
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If I recall I had bearings on a Kyosho (k2) steering setup and they wore out quick, and yes one of the flanges didnt hold up well. Im just looking for an alternative that would last longer. Im picky about steering linkage slop.

The shocks should be broken in, Im sure. There is enough wear from the springs to indicate this. I dont know whats causing the contaminating. I use associated oil.

I have Racers Edge cnc knuckles. Im happy with the amount of throw (steering) but sometimes more might be better...haha. Where the knuckle arms hit, I dont think I can get much more steering if I trimmed there.

The lower brake arm Im just going to grind a little metal off, its slightly rubbing the diff case, and If I get alum. cases I dont want this to happen at all!

Im just using a cheap pipe (I assume stock) and yes nitro cars are loud, but this is downright irritating. It has a sharp tingy sound that slices through eardrums
Back in the day I used Paris pipes that were very easy on the decibles.

Bernie

Last edited by kamlooper; 06-08-2007 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 06-08-2007, 07:16 PM   #426
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whats up fellas? im running a tr now, got it a couple weeks ago. i love the truck, its exceeded my expectations!!
but.... ive broken 2 rear shock shafts jumping? we have a really fast track with big air(private), it is hard on stuff. but everything else ive ran there seems to be fine? the big jump snaps a rear shock shaft if i land hard? i love these shock, im not complaining... great design, i was runnin a jammin... these shocks seem better, but... the jammin shafts never broke? ohh by the way, you can use a jammin shaft in a pinch!! lol..
ok so heres my theory, i noticed i have long shock ends in the rear, but when i looked to buy more i couldnt find em? only the short ones..
why is that? do they still use the long ends in the back?
i kinda think thats whats breakin the shafts... too much leverage?
should i be running the shorter ones?
i did buy a spare set of rear shocks on ebay, they have the short ends on em?

heres a lil vid i made of my matrix at our track last weekend. stills were taken by 30D.
just some ragin on the track!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...87359197&hl=en


any advise on the shocks?
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:54 AM   #427
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I will be picking up 2 matrix buggy kits and 2 matrix TR kits in the next week. I am buying 2 of each because parts aren't readily available in my LHS's, yet anyway.

What I am thinking of doing is running the second trucks aluminum diffs in the buggy. Is this the perfered setup? The aluminum is less prone to flexing like the plastic ones?

I will also be running the red aluminum shock towers on the buggy. What do you guys like better the aluminum or Carbon towers? Should I run carbon on both truggy and buggy or aluminum?

I read earlier, that some one was using Racers edge Kyosho steering knuckles, does this mean the c-hubs and knuckles from the K brand fit the matrix?

With the Proline MSR body now being discontinued I was thinking the proline STR body will also work, or even the stock STR K body, which has that very distinct shape. What seems to be the most popular body to fit the TR?

With the really wide wing mount setup, do the Proline HD wings fit well?

Any building tips you recomend for both the buggy and truggy? Things to watch.

Thanks for reading.
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Old 06-09-2007, 09:16 AM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outtafocus View Post
I will be picking up 2 matrix buggy kits and 2 matrix TR kits in the next week. I am buying 2 of each because parts aren't readily available in my LHS's, yet anyway.

What I am thinking of doing is running the second trucks aluminum diffs in the buggy. Is this the perfered setup? The aluminum is less prone to flexing like the plastic ones?

I will also be running the red aluminum shock towers on the buggy. What do you guys like better the aluminum or Carbon towers? Should I run carbon on both truggy and buggy or aluminum?

I read earlier, that some one was using Racers edge Kyosho steering knuckles, does this mean the c-hubs and knuckles from the K brand fit the matrix?

With the Proline MSR body now being discontinued I was thinking the proline STR body will also work, or even the stock STR K body, which has that very distinct shape. What seems to be the most popular body to fit the TR?

With the really wide wing mount setup, do the Proline HD wings fit well?

Any building tips you recomend for both the buggy and truggy? Things to watch.

Thanks for reading.
I read on the s-grid that the buggy now comes aluminum diff cases
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Old 06-09-2007, 06:04 PM   #429
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I bet that is true because CEN now has part numbers for the cross pins and they would perform better in the alluminum cases.
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Old 06-09-2007, 06:54 PM   #430
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What are these part numbers? In stock anywhere?
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:04 PM   #431
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same question here. Where and how much!
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:29 PM   #432
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no talkin to the new guy huh? lol..

any idea about the shock ends guys? are they using the short ends or long ends in the rear of the tr?
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:48 PM   #433
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use long ends in the rear short in front
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Old 06-10-2007, 03:44 AM   #434
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MX212 / MX213

New part numbers for the pins and cases.
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Old 06-10-2007, 03:50 AM   #435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PQRS... View Post
no talkin to the new guy huh? lol..

any idea about the shock ends guys? are they using the short ends or long ends in the rear of the tr?
There is a thread that has all kinds of information for the TR. Look it up it would be worth it.
If you run the short ends up front you may want to use fuel tubing on the shaft as Lockmouth is doing,, how long I dont know. Others are running theor shock mount locations on the bottom inside tower and inside on the arms. If not the axels can pop out. We run the long ends with no problems and the truck handles awsome. Gene Hickerson runs the short ends with the shock mount locations as mentioned. You know he is ballistic
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