49LikesAssociated RC8T3
09-19-2016, 08:08 AM - Wikipost
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07-23-2016, 03:29 AM
#451
I have recently purchased a set of these inserts, yet to fit them, I also think they will prevent arm breakages, I have`nt broken an arm yet 
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They are available from T-Works. which from memory are in China.....
https://www.rc-tworks.com/products/t...-for-ae-rc8-b3
....They are available from T-Works. which from memory are in China.....
https://www.rc-tworks.com/products/t...-for-ae-rc8-b3
08-07-2016, 06:55 AM
#452
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I finally got the chance to drive the truck yesterday after a few week drought. I ran at the Bowl in PA for practice since there wasn't enough guys to run. They have a triple there that fights me, It sends ya a good 10' up in the air. I have a hard time staying straight when I come off the lip and sometimes miss the landing left or right and land on flat bottom. I didn't break anything on that jump, so kudos to the mugen arms. I drove off the track and rolled threw some big rocks/concrete and pulled a lunsford turnbuckle out of a stock end. Only breakage. I tried 10-20-7 diff fluids and that was not the set up for me on a dry, very dusty, blown out track. I couldn't keep the rear end planted. If the traction is real poor again I will try 10,000 in the center again. A fellow AE T3 owner said he use's 7-7-5. So I still have some experimenting to do. I switched the inserts to the dnc set up last week. I don't know what made the rear so loose the 20k center fluid or the suspension plate inserts? The only dnc thing I haven't done is move the rear swaybar back, What exactly does that do? A long long time track owner thought it was stuiped to move the sway bar back 3mm, "what the heII is that gonna do" he said. I'm gonna try it this week
08-07-2016, 07:02 AM
#453
I finally got the chance to drive the truck yesterday after a few week drought. I ran at the Bowl in PA for practice since there wasn't enough guys to run. They have a triple there that fights me, It sends ya a good 10' up in the air. I have a hard time staying straight when I come off the lip and sometimes miss the landing left or right and land on flat bottom. I didn't break anything on that jump, so kudos to the mugen arms. I drove off the track and rolled threw some big rocks/concrete and pulled a lunsford turnbuckle out of a stock end. Only breakage. I tried 10-20-7 diff fluids and that was not the set up for me on a dry, very dusty, blown out track. I couldn't keep the rear end planted. If the traction is real poor again I will try 10,000 in the center again. A fellow AE T3 owner said he use's 7-7-5. So I still have some experimenting to do. I switched the inserts to the dnc set up last week. I don't know what made the rear so loose the 20k center fluid or the suspension plate inserts? The only dnc thing I haven't done is move the rear swaybar back, What exactly does that do? A long long time track owner thought it was stuiped to move the sway bar back 3mm, "what the heII is that gonna do" he said. I'm gonna try it this week
08-07-2016, 05:59 PM
#454
A fellow AE T3 owner said he use's 7-7-5. So I still have some experimenting to do. I switched the inserts to the dnc set up last week. I don't know what made the rear so loose the 20k center fluid or the suspension plate inserts? The only dnc thing I haven't done is move the rear swaybar back, What exactly does that do? A long long time track owner thought it was stuiped to move the sway bar back 3mm, "what the heII is that gonna do" he said. I'm gonna try it this week
I run 10 15 7 on tracks like this with 35g under the centre rear driveshaft with good results. Also run the clutch softer to smooth out the power.
08-08-2016, 04:34 PM
#456
No issue since using the updated shimming.
08-09-2016, 01:25 PM
#457
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Thanks bru00z, I will be ordering the required parts for diff shimming later today. I wonder if that had something to do with my truggy last weekend? My buggy handled better than my truggy last week since the truggy wanted to spin the wheels everywhere on the track.
08-17-2016, 06:20 AM
#460
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I'm not sure about that body fitting on the mugen.
I'm a little confused after looking at every picture I can find of the new v2 diff shimming.
It looks like the clutch shims go on the outdrive outside of the diff housing/ring gear? So it looks like no shims go in between the o-ring/pin that the sun gear rides on. Every picture shows the clutch shims outside of the diff (ie not touching any diff fluid).
Am I understanding this correctly? Tonight when I redo the diffs, I am planning on putting the clutch shims outside the diff. I may stick with 10-10-7, but I will have a center ready to go with 30k. Maybe the shims are coned right now but 20k in the center had my truck almost undriveable last outing but that track was very dusty. 30k may be alright at lcrc this weekend. Hopefully there will be some t3's at lcrc this weekend and we can find a good set up.
I'm a little confused after looking at every picture I can find of the new v2 diff shimming.
It looks like the clutch shims go on the outdrive outside of the diff housing/ring gear? So it looks like no shims go in between the o-ring/pin that the sun gear rides on. Every picture shows the clutch shims outside of the diff (ie not touching any diff fluid).
Am I understanding this correctly? Tonight when I redo the diffs, I am planning on putting the clutch shims outside the diff. I may stick with 10-10-7, but I will have a center ready to go with 30k. Maybe the shims are coned right now but 20k in the center had my truck almost undriveable last outing but that track was very dusty. 30k may be alright at lcrc this weekend. Hopefully there will be some t3's at lcrc this weekend and we can find a good set up.
08-28-2016, 12:41 PM
#463
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Well no problems with the new diff shimming, truck just rolls and rolls some more. I needed to tighten up the rear pinion mesh yesterday to stop it from skipping. I have a new problem now and that is the engine mount. I want a quick change mount, I stripped one of the engine mounting holes and would like a quick change rather then a stock replacement. I see there is a FT engine mount as well as a m2c quick change mount. Any recommendations on either of these "quick change mounts". Thanks Jeremy
09-18-2016, 09:31 AM
#465
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Ran 7-5-5 yesterday w/ 42.5F and 40R shock oil. Im experimenting at the moment. I was running a bunch of brass under rear shaft and 2 m2c c plate weights trying to hook the rear up but the rear kept on slapping making me nose dive off jumps. So I removed some weight and went to heavier shock oil. The above helped alot, but I lost some steering. I'm not sure but I think the front shock oil is to heavy because if I tap the brakes the truck turns good. I'm gonna try 7 in the center and lighten up the shock oils this week. Other then the fluids truck has dnc set up. I'm not sure if the O-ring went bad but the rear diff was leaking, I put 1 clutch shim outside the the case and one big diff shim on top of the oring. This stopped the leaking but I fear the large diff shim will cone out faster then using 2 big shims under sun gears. I'll try the above changes and post back up next week. Some of the stuff I mentioned above may sound dumb but it is helping me understand what set up changes do and how the vehicle reacts to them. Receiver switch went on me yesterday on the straight and into the fence I went. Truck handled it pretty well for high speed fence crash. Only broke a mugen upper arm,shock shaft,and popped a pillow ball out which I replaced. I got sworkz arms on it now which are a little bit shorter since I had like negative 6 camber w/ the same amount of shims as the mugens. This truck is getting faster every week and I guess I am too.
