RCChrisP

Every single damn screw on my MBX6R is stripped.

I'm really getting fed up with repairing it and not being able to fix something at the track.

Had a look into getting a stainless steel kit but they are mainly Phillips heads and the metric thread needs to be retapped to imperial...

Thinking of just getting a new bug.

Have you guys found something other than blue loctite that will hold the screw in place? I mean I just turn it in by hand without any loctite and next time round it will strip out (pre heated the screw before attempting to loosen it)

When fitting new screws, what do you guys do? How tight? Do you apply loctite and where on the screw???

wombat

iTrader: (31)

Locktite only those screws that go into metal threads (eg engine mounts etc), not needed for screws going into plastic components (or as per recommendations in the manual).

Curious as to your "Imperial" comment - Mugen's as with most other reputable brands run metric screws all round (Losi/TLR is the only one I know of that uses Imperial screws).

Please dont tell me you're using Imperial hex tools - because that would be the cause of your stripping problem (assuming you're talking about stripping the heads and not the actual threads).

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

If u r stripping a lot of screws, check yr tools. I don't supposed u r using stainless steel screws on the entire car. Stainless steel is too soft. U should be using black colour steel ones or at most titanium ones on parts of the buggy.

PaulNZ

+1 for Wombats comments.

I use the blue Losi loctite. Put a small drop on the end of the screw about 2-3 threads from the end and then give it a quick wipe with the end of a finger. Just tighten it up so it is snug, you don't need to crank the crap out of it, let the loctite do the work.

I haven't had a screw come out yet and haven't stripped a thread, screw head or driver yet.

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

+1 Use good quality tools with 12.9 grade screws

BiLL77

iTrader: (4)

Yup 12.9 grade screws and good quality hex tips and you will rarely strip screws, unless you dont clean the dirt out of the hex hole completely so get a good set of picks also. And i only use medium strength blue loctite.

Usmc1488

If you are using loctite on plastic that could be your probelm as well. Loctite isnt friendly to plastics and that could cause the holes to strip.

MotorcityMadman

iTrader: (2)

Besides using blue loctite which is a one time use, and should be cleaned off the threads so you can re-apply. I use something called Vibra-tite VC4 or VC3, you can apply it to the threads of the screw let it dry and use the screw when ever you want, after 10 to 30 minutes or 2 years later. It is re usable too, what that means is once the threads are coated and the screw is used, you can take out the screw and then RE-USE the screw without re-applying it! I am sure you have watched someones wheel nut fall off and you see the car skidding on the dirt, while his tire is is still rolling away? I have never lost one yet in over 20 years of this hobby, I also use it on my dirtbike, never lost a bolt yet! One bottle will last you a long time, because you apply it once and forget about it!
You CAN use it for plastics, metal and wood!
I have used it for military design specs.

RCChrisP

@Wombat: I have only been using a dab of loctite on the metal to metal.
I bought the Mugen from Amain. Metric tools are either too small or too big. Had to buy imperial hex tools from day one.
It's the actual hex head that strips.

Additionally with all the stripping going on I ended up buying various replacement screws (Not mugen though, so I have no idea what the grade is) That could be my problem.

P.S. it only seems to happen with the 1.5 & 2mm (I don't know the imperial units. Something like 1/16 etc) The 2.5 & 3mm screws in the chassis hold up nicely.

@Adrictan: I will visit our local bolt and nut shop and try and see if they can offer the black hardened screws.

@PaulNZ: Thanks for the info. Will get me some and try it that way.

@TRiN & BiLL77: I always clean the dirt out entirely but will see if I can find that grade steel.

@MotorcityMadman: I'm in south africa but will see if I can find that, otherwise I'll bring it in via ebay.

Thanks for all the responses guys. Must say it's awesome to get so many replies!

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I ran a Mugen and it was defiantly metric.
Worn hex tips strip screws easily. Replace your 2.0 and 2.5 tips

Socket

iTrader: (61)

A new set of MIP wrenches every year.

I also replace nearly every screw on my car every 2 race days....

Then again, I work for a screw manufacturer...so they're free for me.

wombat

iTrader: (31)

This is clearly your problem - use the correct tools for the job (ie Metric) - no idea why you bought Imperial tools for this vehicle....sell them and invest in a metric set (unless you plan on running losi in the future)

Nitro Tiger

iTrader: (6)

Actually the imperial closest match to 2mm is 5/64 (1.984mm) and is a better fit than a 2mm hex, someone put me into it, I use that size for 2mm hex heads since, dramatically reduces the chance for stripping when driver become worn .

redbones

Dudes, just get a good metric hex driver (MIP, Hudy, EDS, etc)
If the loctite is on too hard, heat it up a little and you won't strip the hex.
The only other thing I can think is that the mugen came with rubbish screws.

Nitro Tiger

iTrader: (6)

Yeh Mugen screws are on the soft side. When mine start to strip I replace them with Tony's screw replacements.