Thinking of getting back into nitro
#16
Tech Champion
I think for casual messing around the NEXX8-T or Kyosho are probably fine. Not as robust and high quality as the higher end kits, but for the money, hey...
You can get a 2-speed for the Thunder Tiger ST-1. The ST-1 is a pretty old platform, but for a basher it's great. Put an LRP Spec 3 .28 in it or Losi 454 (though the stock TT 28 is not bad..) and you're good to go. The 2-speed is like a 100 bucks though I think...
You can get a 2-speed for the Thunder Tiger ST-1. The ST-1 is a pretty old platform, but for a basher it's great. Put an LRP Spec 3 .28 in it or Losi 454 (though the stock TT 28 is not bad..) and you're good to go. The 2-speed is like a 100 bucks though I think...
#17
i think im going to go with the kyosho. Every review on it i have read is pretty good. im going to put a 2 speed in it and do upgrades as i go.
#18
Well i just ordered the kyosho, im excited. Any advice on the break in or just follow the manual?
#19
Tech Champion
Congrats and have fun.
Here's what I do for break-in:
1.) Take out plug. While looking down in hole, rotate flywheel. Find point at which the piston is at its bottom-most point, otherwise known as BDC - bottom dead center. You always want to put the piston to this position when cooling down between break-in runs. Then, mark a notch on the flywheel at 12:00. Then you always know where BDC is.
2.) Put sock around cooling head. If possible, get a cheap hair-drier and hold it close over the head for several minutes til it reaches about 200F. It would be good to have a temp gun.
3.) Start engine. Plop it on the ground. Run around in really easy figure-8's for several minutes(don't exceed 1/3 throttle...) You want temps to be around 200-235F. Temps are everything for heat cycling, which is what this method is called.
4.) After running for 3-4 minutes, shut it down. Rotate flywheel to 12:00 immediately.
5.) Let cool completely.
6.) Repeat from the beginning, with preheating, etc.
From cycle to cycle you can extend how long you run it. I usually start out doing half a tank. Then maybe 2-3 1/2 tanks. After that full tanks til 7-8 tanks are through. After that you can start leaning it a bit. Some of this depends on what kind of temps you see. If it's SUPER blubbery fat(rich), you might want to lean the HSN some to get temps in that zone where you need it. In some cases after the first 2-3 tanks you might need to run it a tiny tad harder to get the temps up.
Anyway, that's my approach on the subject of break-in. Good luck and have fun...
Here's what I do for break-in:
1.) Take out plug. While looking down in hole, rotate flywheel. Find point at which the piston is at its bottom-most point, otherwise known as BDC - bottom dead center. You always want to put the piston to this position when cooling down between break-in runs. Then, mark a notch on the flywheel at 12:00. Then you always know where BDC is.
2.) Put sock around cooling head. If possible, get a cheap hair-drier and hold it close over the head for several minutes til it reaches about 200F. It would be good to have a temp gun.
3.) Start engine. Plop it on the ground. Run around in really easy figure-8's for several minutes(don't exceed 1/3 throttle...) You want temps to be around 200-235F. Temps are everything for heat cycling, which is what this method is called.
4.) After running for 3-4 minutes, shut it down. Rotate flywheel to 12:00 immediately.
5.) Let cool completely.
6.) Repeat from the beginning, with preheating, etc.
From cycle to cycle you can extend how long you run it. I usually start out doing half a tank. Then maybe 2-3 1/2 tanks. After that full tanks til 7-8 tanks are through. After that you can start leaning it a bit. Some of this depends on what kind of temps you see. If it's SUPER blubbery fat(rich), you might want to lean the HSN some to get temps in that zone where you need it. In some cases after the first 2-3 tanks you might need to run it a tiny tad harder to get the temps up.
Anyway, that's my approach on the subject of break-in. Good luck and have fun...
#20
Congrats and have fun.
Here's what I do for break-in:
1.) Take out plug. While looking down in hole, rotate flywheel. Find point at which the piston is at its bottom-most point, otherwise known as BDC - bottom dead center. You always want to put the piston to this position when cooling down between break-in runs. Then, mark a notch on the flywheel at 12:00. Then you always know where BDC is.
2.) Put sock around cooling head. If possible, get a cheap hair-drier and hold it close over the head for several minutes til it reaches about 200F. It would be good to have a temp gun.
3.) Start engine. Plop it on the ground. Run around in really easy figure-8's for several minutes(don't exceed 1/3 throttle...) You want temps to be around 200-235F. Temps are everything for heat cycling, which is what this method is called.
4.) After running for 3-4 minutes, shut it down. Rotate flywheel to 12:00 immediately.
5.) Let cool completely.
6.) Repeat from the beginning, with preheating, etc.
From cycle to cycle you can extend how long you run it. I usually start out doing half a tank. Then maybe 2-3 1/2 tanks. After that full tanks til 7-8 tanks are through. After that you can start leaning it a bit. Some of this depends on what kind of temps you see. If it's SUPER blubbery fat(rich), you might want to lean the HSN some to get temps in that zone where you need it. In some cases after the first 2-3 tanks you might need to run it a tiny tad harder to get the temps up.
Anyway, that's my approach on the subject of break-in. Good luck and have fun...
Here's what I do for break-in:
1.) Take out plug. While looking down in hole, rotate flywheel. Find point at which the piston is at its bottom-most point, otherwise known as BDC - bottom dead center. You always want to put the piston to this position when cooling down between break-in runs. Then, mark a notch on the flywheel at 12:00. Then you always know where BDC is.
2.) Put sock around cooling head. If possible, get a cheap hair-drier and hold it close over the head for several minutes til it reaches about 200F. It would be good to have a temp gun.
3.) Start engine. Plop it on the ground. Run around in really easy figure-8's for several minutes(don't exceed 1/3 throttle...) You want temps to be around 200-235F. Temps are everything for heat cycling, which is what this method is called.
4.) After running for 3-4 minutes, shut it down. Rotate flywheel to 12:00 immediately.
5.) Let cool completely.
6.) Repeat from the beginning, with preheating, etc.
From cycle to cycle you can extend how long you run it. I usually start out doing half a tank. Then maybe 2-3 1/2 tanks. After that full tanks til 7-8 tanks are through. After that you can start leaning it a bit. Some of this depends on what kind of temps you see. If it's SUPER blubbery fat(rich), you might want to lean the HSN some to get temps in that zone where you need it. In some cases after the first 2-3 tanks you might need to run it a tiny tad harder to get the temps up.
Anyway, that's my approach on the subject of break-in. Good luck and have fun...
#21
It'd going to be cold when I get it, is it OK to break it in being really cold outside? About 30°f.
#22
Tech Champion
It can be done, but better to wait til it's more like 50 or higher... Remember, it's all about the temps(because of how the metal expands and contracts..). I actually don't know what the mechanical implications are of having the engine temp go all the way down to 30, cycle after cycle, if ultimately the engine will be run in more moderate temps once broken in.. Anyway, I'd wait til it's 50. Just me though...
#23
It can be done, but better to wait til it's more like 50 or higher... Remember, it's all about the temps(because of how the metal expands and contracts..). I actually don't know what the mechanical implications are of having the engine temp go all the way down to 30, cycle after cycle, if ultimately the engine will be run in more moderate temps once broken in.. Anyway, I'd wait til it's 50. Just me though...
#25
I got the kyosho today. Went through and tightened everything down (a LOT of bolts were backed out.) Kit looks pretty cool and easy to tear down. I put batteries in to make sure the servos worked properly and what do you know the throttle servo is acting up. It's humming and moving around without me doing anything so I guess I'm going to just go ahead and upgrade it.
#26
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Just stay outside.
Let it cool down to 70 degrees and then start reheating it for the next run. Just remember.....it MUST be over 200 (preferably 245ish) while its running, then let it cool to 70ish degrees....lather, rinse, repeat.
Use a comp heat, heat gun, old koozie, socks, tinfoil, whatever to keep the temp up. A motor "breaking in" at less than 200 degrees is NOT what you want.
Let it cool down to 70 degrees and then start reheating it for the next run. Just remember.....it MUST be over 200 (preferably 245ish) while its running, then let it cool to 70ish degrees....lather, rinse, repeat.
Use a comp heat, heat gun, old koozie, socks, tinfoil, whatever to keep the temp up. A motor "breaking in" at less than 200 degrees is NOT what you want.
#27
Just stay outside.
Let it cool down to 70 degrees and then start reheating it for the next run. Just remember.....it MUST be over 200 (preferably 245ish) while its running, then let it cool to 70ish degrees....lather, rinse, repeat.
Use a comp heat, heat gun, old koozie, socks, tinfoil, whatever to keep the temp up. A motor "breaking in" at less than 200 degrees is NOT what you want.
Let it cool down to 70 degrees and then start reheating it for the next run. Just remember.....it MUST be over 200 (preferably 245ish) while its running, then let it cool to 70ish degrees....lather, rinse, repeat.
Use a comp heat, heat gun, old koozie, socks, tinfoil, whatever to keep the temp up. A motor "breaking in" at less than 200 degrees is NOT what you want.
#28
I should be able to just get another traxxas tqi rx and use my emaxx remote right?
#29
Tech Champion
What do you mean the servo is moving by itself? Is it just sort of twitchy and humming? Your linkage might be off. The linkages need to be perfect. Turn on the radio and then the car, give gas brake gas brake back and forth. When the throttle closes at full brake there should be no twitching at the end of the carb.. Make sure the batteries are fully charged too. I doubt you need a new radio..(If it's Traxxas though who knows..)
#30
What do you mean the servo is moving by itself? Is it just sort of twitchy and humming? Your linkage might be off. The linkages need to be perfect. Turn on the radio and then the car, give gas brake gas brake back and forth. When the throttle closes at full brake there should be no twitching at the end of the carb.. Make sure the batteries are fully charged too. I doubt you need a new radio..(If it's Traxxas though who knows..)