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Old 04-15-2007, 04:54 PM   #736
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The distance on my shock tower is the same distance in as the distance from the stock inner and outer rows. The location vertically is in between the bottom and second from bottom hole on the inside holes. I had a friend who is a machinist drill them for me. It then took me 45+ minutes with a dremel to get the upper link to fit. You just have to be careful not to take off too mch material and break into one of the screw holes on the diff case.

I have been looking for a manual for someone on the S-Grid. Thanks for the link.

Thanks,
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Old 04-15-2007, 05:06 PM   #737
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Thx man
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:09 PM   #738
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so how does the body for the std chassis sit compared with a FR2 chassis. new holes/body required?
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:23 PM   #739
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I used the same body and did a modification to the rear body mount only. I took off the rear body mount, ground off the nub on the bottom and then drilled a hole where the nub was. I then put a longer screw in the top hole (stock hole) and a screw in the bottom hole with a spacer between the shock tower and body mount. The spacers are about 4 mm thick. The holes line up perfectly now. Also, the fuel tank access and motor cooling head hole still lines up perfectly.

Also, on an interesting note, you can use the same starter box for an FR2 chassis and a standard chassis. I had to use someone elses starter box this weekend when mine died.

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Old 04-16-2007, 11:26 PM   #740
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hey guys, Was just wondering if any of you have ever tried fitting a jammin Crowd pleazer on the hyper8?
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:16 AM   #741
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anyone here run a torsen?
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Old 04-17-2007, 04:35 AM   #742
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I have never run a torsen in any buggy I have owned.

I am not sure about the Jammin Crowd Pleazer. I think the Mugen one fits, never tried it though.

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Old 04-17-2007, 04:48 AM   #743
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yes the jammin body works i ran one on my hyper 8 for ages,fits very well
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Old 04-17-2007, 08:21 PM   #744
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thanks, got this jammin crowd pleazer lying around which i wanna try fitting on to the hyper8.

I used to run a front torsen on my hyper7, but i can only recommend this on smooth tracks. In the end i think diffs are still more consistent.
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Old 04-21-2007, 08:55 PM   #745
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Finally got to take my H8 outside today. Wow, I really liked it. It had great steering and proved to be very durable. The only thing that bothered me was the car just didn't seem to "settle" very well. Sometimes when jumping it would fly nice and level, other times it would fly way off tilt. The car also seemed a little sketchy in the bumps. It just didn't soak them up like I thought it should.

I am running the full Kortz set up

Front
7k
big bores with 70 Losi oil
Mugen white springs
Upper row middle hole on tower
Inside hole on arm (new hole drilled inside the others)
Maximum kick up
rear ackerman position
Upper arm is Kortz mod with upper hole on tower and outer hole on knuckle
20* caster
1* toe out
-2* camber
bones level
droop screws turned in 1 turn from full droop

Center
5k
FR2 brace

Rear
2K
Big bores with 30 wt Losi oil
Mugen blue springs
Upper row middle hole on tower
Outside hole on arm (tried inside too, seemed to handle bumps a little better)
1* kick up
-2* camber
2* toe in
New style plactic hubs
wheelbase in middle
Upper link drilled new position inside on tower and inside lower hole on hubs
Bones level

FR2 chassis

Think that is it.

I just want it to soak up the bumps a little better. It almost seems that it is too soft in the rear and slaps the rear of the chassis over some jumps, but then seems to not soak up some acceleration bumps. Seems I might want less antisquat to help with on power bump handling, but can't get any less than what I have.

Any input?

Thanks,
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Old 04-22-2007, 02:19 AM   #746
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I have found the same, i decreased my anti squad to 1 degree which helped but not perfect, our setups are quite similar, but im running the hong nor red medium springs all round on my jammin bb shocks (45w losi front and 40 losi rear) and dont get any chassis slap. Maybe try a thicker shock oil in the back. Ill be trying my setup with the mugen blue springs in the rear soon and will post results. I have had email correspondance with greg degani and he said not to run max front kickup, i run 7 degree front kickup with 22 degree castor, it sounds funny but it also helped calm the back end down, i guess sometimes you have to think inside out.

Last edited by FrankBlack; 04-22-2007 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 04-22-2007, 04:29 AM   #747
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I will try reducing the front kick up by one adjustment. The car felt very good overall, but you really had to keep full attention to it. It would be tought to race super fast for a long race. At the same time, if I just cut back a little and kept the lines smooth with a little less throttle, the car was pretty quick and more consistent. Maybe I will also try limiting my throttle some and driving the car a little less aggressively.

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Old 04-24-2007, 06:10 AM   #748
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Hi guys

Came across these 2 new types of clutch shoe for Hyper8.
Anyone tried already and any comment ?.

This looks like using the real automobile clutch material


Was told these are CNC machined from the same piston's silicone aluminium ?
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:43 AM   #749
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anyone ever try using the ofna shoes with two gold springs and 1 black?

also do you guys use the front and rear stabilizers? i am trying to reduce the weight in my hyper 8. i had a jammin x1 and it was much lighter. any input helps. thanks
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Old 04-24-2007, 01:25 PM   #750
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There was a set up for out there last year with no front sway bar. I will look for it and post it later. It was something like 7k front, 4k center, 2k rear, no toe out up front, 2 degree toe in in rear. It was supposed to be great if driven smooth. I have not tried it though.

I don't feel a problem with the weight of the car and I am a weight weenie. I had a Revo that raced all season that was 7.1 pounds. Every screw was titanium or aluminum. That being said, you can use the Jammin light weight gear pins in the diffs, use carbon/fiberglass brake rotors, use lightened outdrives. I have many aluminum and titanium screws throughout my car. You can also use a lipo battery, titanium camber/caster/steering rods and carbon or titanium hinge pins. I don't think it is needed in 1/8th scale, but you can get them if you want. Some people even drill many holes in the spur gear to reduce weight, but it has to be evenly spaced so it stays in balance.

Thanks,
Casey
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