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Old 03-16-2007, 08:48 PM   #691
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Cheers man ill give that a go, i know i started with 3/3/1 in the diffs but i didnt like how all the power was goin to the back, but yeh i was a mega noob back then so maybe ill like it now since ive stepped up to novice. Ill try the 1.45 piston holes, just gotta find a place around here that has such a tiny drill bit, 1.5 was the smallest i could find thats why im running 1.5mm holes. I just redid my shocks so ill leave that till next rebuild. Im using the old rear hubs, but ive just replaced them and i glued the inserts in, i wouldnt mind trying the 308mm track width in the future since the track i race on is very bumpy and i was having trouble gettin on the power at the start of the straight cause the rear end was bouncing all over the place, i dail out some of the anti squat that seemed to make it better, but not perfect. Is the indoor track you race on dirt?
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Old 03-16-2007, 09:16 PM   #692
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Yes, but very cold dirt (about 0 celcius, maybe slightly colder). The track changes the night before every race, so most of it is not too packed. It is a clay mix and the facility is designed for indoor motocross.

For drilling the pistons, I drilled one hole to 1.4 and one to 1.5. I did this because I could not find a 1.45 drill bit.

To reduce slop in rear hubs you can also install set screws thru the hub and insert. Works pretty well and not permanent like glue.

Haven't messed with anti squat at all. I am just going to mess with the new FR2 chassis and droop screws for next race. Will hopefully be outside running in 1 month. I have new F,C,R diffs as extras. I plan on trying different oils on the same track, same day, to see handling differences.
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Old 03-16-2007, 09:20 PM   #693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightcs77
I drilled one hole to 1.4 and one to 1.5. b
Thats a freakin awesome idea, never thought of that. Did you actually have to drill the 1.4 hole, dont the 1.4 pistons have 1.4 size holes? I tried the grub screws in the rear hubs, made little to no difference, i think they were to far gone before i did it. You said you tried 5/7/1 and you said it was loose, what do you mean by loose? Soz man im pretty new to this, ive only been into the sport goin on 4 months.

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Old 03-17-2007, 06:46 AM   #694
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By loose I mean the back end was struggling to find traction. I had to get on the throttle very slowly or else the back of the car wanted to trade places with the front of the car.

On the pistons, I think I ran a 1.4 drill thru the hole with my fingers, just to make sure the hole in the piston was the right size.
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Old 03-19-2007, 03:02 PM   #695
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hi wyldthing

what method did you use for breaking in your rb s5. seems like there are too many opinions on this method.
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:17 PM   #696
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Hi Bob...Like you say, there are a bazillion different opinions on how to break-in an engine, but I have settled on this method for all my engines, as what works best for me...

The first two tanks I run bench break-in, with the engine running as rich as possible, and with just enough throttle to keep it running. I try to get the engine to about 150 degrees during this process, and will sometimes cover the head with a spray can lid to get the temps that I want.

After those first two tanks, I start leaning about 1/8 of a turn for about 6 tanks, but still just running it around at just enough throttle to keep it running, until the latter two tanks of this stage, where I start giving it short burst of no more than half-throttle. I usually use the spray can lid here too, unless it's in the middle of summer and hot, but most of my break-ins seem to happen in the spring or fall when it is cooler. I like to have the engine running at about 185-190 during these five tanks.

For the next three tanks, I keep leaning about an 1/8 of a turn, and you should be getting close to getting an optimum tune for the engine. I like to get temps of about 200-210 degrees for these three tanks. By the third tank, I am running it pretty hard, with medium-long bursts of full-throttle.

It should be pretty much ready to go by now...

I am probably more cautious than most people during break-in...but I get good mileage out of my engines typically, too. I don't like spending several hundred dollars on an engine, and only get a couple of gallons out of it. I'm too tight for that...lol.

I'm sure you already know this info, but in case someone else is reading that doesn't....

Let the engine completely cool in between tanks, and make sure the piston is at BDC (bottom dead center) when it's cooling in between tanks. The first several tanks, use a good hair dryer or heat gun to warm the engine before starting it. This, I believe, is THE most crucial aspect of break-in, cuz the pinch is soooo tight, and you don't want to "stick it", or damage the engine before you even get started.

This method has worked good for me for all brands, and all sizes of engines throughout the years...

Enjoy that RB.....They are GREAT engines!

Brad
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:12 PM   #697
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how many gallons did you end up getting through your s5.like you say you spend so much money on engines you want those suckers to last awhile.do you put after run oil in the engine after every race day.would be nice to find a battery operated heat gun to take to the race track.
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:06 PM   #698
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I ran RB's for about 2 seasons, and I normally didn't keep them till failure. One I did get about 7 gallons out of before I sold it at the track. I don't know how long it lasted after I sold it, but it wasn't worn out yet when I let it go.
I don't normally pay real close attention to how much fuel after the 5 gallon mark. I figure I've got my money's worth by then...lol.
I have a tendency to be pretty gentle with all my engines though. I won't run them hot, I keep my filters really clean, and I do regular maintenance on them.....
I did replace a few front bearings from time to time on the RB's. Not because they failed, but they would start to leak more than I like. That's the one complaint I had with RB's, was the front bearings on occassion.

I know some guys that have gotten 11 plus gallons out of a V-spec! I'm sure their are some RB's that have made it that long too, if you knew who to talk to.

If I am racing the next weekend, then no, I don't use afterun. But if it's going to be over a week, then yes I do. I run sidewinder fuel, and they recommend not even using afterun with their fuel, but I would rather be safe than sorry...lol. It's never caused any problems using it with the fuel...

I don't know if they make a battery operated heat gun or not.....would be nice if they did!

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Old 03-20-2007, 07:30 AM   #699
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if you change shocks to jammin big bore, then make sure you change shock mount that goes on uprights. if you don't there will be too much play in shocks and they will not be compressing efficiently. just my two cents...made a big difference with me.
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Old 03-20-2007, 02:10 PM   #700
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have you found any differences in fuels from one company to another.this is just my second year with a nitro buggy so still learning alot.last year i was running blue thunder sport fuel.
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Old 03-20-2007, 03:09 PM   #701
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Before I started running Sidewinder, I used Byrons Original. I have had ZERO problems with either brand of fuel. I have never used blue thunder....
The ONLY reason I switched from Byrons to Sidewinder was due to a private sponsorship.

Don't worry about asking questions.....I am no "buggy genious"...lol, but I've ran it for a while, and I typically ask alot of questions at the track when I'm not sure about something, too.
One thing about it, their is ALOT of knowledge on this board!! So, if I can't answer it, there are several thousand guys on here that can if they will take the time...lol.

Also, I am one of those guys that will answer honestly, with no bias. I don't have any "major" sponsorship deals, so I don't have any egos to stroke, and I don't have to be politically correct to keep my sponsors happy.
Nothing against the guys that do have those sponsorships though, as they are just doing what they are paid to do, and I understand that.

Hope this helps, and keep the questions coming.....
Have fun racing that buggy, too!!! That's what it's all about....

Brad
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Old 03-21-2007, 10:53 PM   #702
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is it ok to run 5k, 7k,3k on the diff oil front to rear?
Using stock 28 engine
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:53 PM   #703
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Thats what ive been using and i dont mind it.
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:03 AM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jephry
is it ok to run 5k, 7k,3k on the diff oil front to rear?
Using stock 28 engine
You can run whatever you like depending on how you like it to handle.
You may be a little heavy in the centre and rear, but it all depends on the track, or where you are running. If you are just bashing, which with a .28 I am guessing you are, it will be fine.

At the moment I run 3k, 5k, 2k, on a bumpy clay track that tends to be a bit broken and dry on the surface.
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Old 03-22-2007, 02:24 AM   #705
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Thanks for the advise will try it first!
cheers
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