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Old 03-09-2007, 03:54 PM   #676
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The track i race i would diff class as bumpy, i measure the droop by just counting the number of thread from underneath on the actual droop screw. On the front i count 3 thread and on the back i count 4. 3/5/2 sounds ok for diff setup, i have tried many oil combo's (but not 3/5/2) and i find 5/7/3 or 5/7/2 is nice.
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:14 PM   #677
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Hi Frank Black, What diff oils do yo run?

Have just got a new H8 and is standard with a v -spec . Yes myn let go after 10 ltrs too. Spat the crank case out Nothing let go internally.
Any way wat is the new chasis they are talking about on the Ofna board does any one know??
Unfortunately Im not going to be ableto do much racing this year so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Mark..
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:30 PM   #678
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Hi Madracer, Im running 5f 7c 3r. Everyone says the FR2 chassis is the way to go if you can afford it, you will also need the +2 rear brace.
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:33 AM   #679
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Thanks what is the fr2 chasis? Is it stiffer or lighter or longer, shorter. Why 2 braces at the rear?? Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:58 AM   #680
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The FR2 chassis is longer, you dont need "2" rear braces, you need the "+2" brace, as shown below.

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Old 03-12-2007, 06:08 AM   #681
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Hey Madracer...I think you'll find that 3,3,1 is a much better choice for the H8....
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:07 PM   #682
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Since I can't get an answer on Grid or OFNA board, I will try here. I have a FR2 chassis and brace coming. I have 2 questions.

1. So I need to change anything in my set up. I pretty much like the way my car is set up now, just working with droop settings. Do I need to adjust any shock/diff oil or spring rates due to the longer chassis (and weight transfer and stuff)?

2. Wht do you do about body mounting? Do you shim the rear body mount forward or do you get a new body and use new holes?

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:46 PM   #683
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Hi wrightcs77, i seen your post at the ofna forums, i too would like to know the answer to your questions, especially about bodies fitting, if i shell out for the new chassis and brace i would sure hope my crowd pleazer 2.0 fits it. For setup im just goin to try it and see, seems like not too many ppl have moved to the FR2 chassis because of the cost. Maybe send RobB at the ofna forums a pm and ask him, im not sure if he can tell you about shock settings since he is using the 14mm shocks (as on the hyper st truggy) and "experimental springs". rabidsquirrel uses the FR2 chassis maybe he can shed some light on these things.

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Old 03-15-2007, 07:49 PM   #684
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Hi guys

I think the 'longer' brace is not necessary unless you are adding the center stiffener block, as the block's thickness requires a different thickness brace to match.
Most probably what they do is move the brace mounting holes backward as our longer chassis kit here only comes with a longer center aluminium dogbone drive shaft.

Correct me if I'm wrong ?.
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:28 PM   #685
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One of the OFNA drivers said that the set-up should stay the same. He said it will just be more stable and consistent. He did not mention anything about the body. I have my chassis on the way, so I will post when I find out.
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Old 03-16-2007, 01:39 AM   #686
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Awesome wrightcs77, im goin to import one before may to try out, but yeh diff post your results here. This month ill be testing jeremy kortz's front setup, hope its good i just layed out 40 bucks to do it, got all new parts so i can quick swap if i dont like it.
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Old 03-16-2007, 05:26 AM   #687
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I have the Kortz set up on the front end. It seems to work just fine. I have only ran the car 2 race weekends The first weekend the car was completely stock. It was so loose it wasn't funny. For the second weekend, I switched to Degani's set up.

Here is my set up.

Front
3K diff
-2* camber
0* toe
50wt Associated oil
1.45 drilled pistons
Kyosho dark blue new SP2 front springs
Inside on arms, 3rd from outside on shock tower
ride height just above level
22* hubs
+ hole down on kickup block
Middle hole on steering rack
Kortz mod to take off upper arm
Upper link is mounted lower hole on shock tower and outer hole on c-hub

Center
3K
standard gear ratio

Rear
1K
-2* camber
started with 3* toe, went to 2.5* toe for main and it felt better
new hubs w/no inserts. Used lower hole on hub
Camber link inside lowest hole on shock tower, outside lower hole on hub (will do rear camber link mod before next race)
25wt rear Associated shock oil
drilled 1.45 pistons
Kyosho light blue 777 rear springs
inside on arms, 4th from outside on tower
middle wheelbase (tried long, pushed. Tried short, was too sketchy in the bumps)
1* antisquat
rear bones level

The car felt much better with this set up. I will be trying the new chassis for the next race (in early April, we have indoor racing in Minnesota in the winter). I will give a full report then.
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:13 PM   #688
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The difference in your setup and mine is huge, must be the tracks we race on, ive been slowly evolving my setup for one particular track, its the only track i race on usually. My setup is getting there, one problem im trying to fix atm is bottoming out on some jumps. Im running 40 in the front and 30 in the back with 1.5mil piston holes and stock shocks and stock blue springs, 3rd hole out on front shock tower and inner hole on lower arms, and same for the back. I will eventually go with the jammin big bore shocks but for now im looking for a fix. I dont want to get new springs for these shocks as i wont be using them for much longer, maybe move in on the shock tower holes? What do you reakon?

My Setup:
Front Diff 5k
Front toe -2
Front camber -1
20 degree castor
8 degree kickup
Inner hole on bottom arms
3rd hole out on shock tower (top holes)
40w shock oil with 1.5mil piston holes
Stock shocks and stock blue springs
9mm preload on shock (arms level)
Outer hole on front c hubs
sway bar 2.5mm
Middle ackerman hole

Centre diff 7k
13T clutch bell

Rear Diff 3k
Rear toe +2 degrees
Rear camber -2 degrees
306mm track width
1 degree anti squat
30w shock oil with 1.5mm piston holes
stock shocks and stock blue springs
3rd hole out on shock tower (top holes)
inner hole on lower arms
3mm preload (arms level)
bottom inner hole on shock tower (rear upper arms)
Inner hole on rear hub
Rear sway bar 3mm

With kortz front arm setup do you put a washer and locknut on the flanged balls on the shock tower that the upper arms connect to? I can see them popping off easily in a collision.

Last edited by FrankBlack; 03-16-2007 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:15 PM   #689
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Frank,
First off...Australia rules. I love Bundi and cokes. I was there in 2000 for 6 months. Went all over eastern Australia, south island of NZ, Papua New Guinea and Fiji. I went to uni in Lismore, NSW about 30 minutes west of Byron Bay.

I am no expert, but when I switched to 1.45 pistons and the Kyosho springs from the 1.5 pistons and stock springs the car was 100% more dialed. It just soaks up the landings and bumps great. I think the smaller piston hole will provide a little more pack and not slap the chassis as much.

Before getting the Jammin Big Bores, I would try and wait for the new Hyper BB off of the Hyper ST. They are bigger than the Jammins. They already have the shocks ready, they are testing springs for the car.

I have no washer behind the upper link on the front end with the Kortz mod. It would take a heck of a hit to take the link off of the ball. I will say there is considerably more play in the front end with this mod, but not a big deal on the track.

I started with the stock 5,5,grease in diffs. It just did not feel right. So I tried 5,7,1 and it was so loose it wasn't funny. Went to 3,3,1 for this last race and it was much, much better. I didn't think it would accelerate too well with low center diff weight, but it was great.

I also run the new rear hubs with no inserts. No slop this way.
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:22 PM   #690
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Here is Kortz's set up. It is a little different.

http://home.comcast.net/~spdmodz/Hyper8-Kortz.pdf

I have not tried it yet. I will once I can start racing outdoors again. It seems like the diff oils are wierd, but some people run those oils. Said it turns in great and then pulls hard out of the corners.

My set up above seems to push mid to exit on the corners. I have to mess with my droop screws to take away some droop and make the car quicker reacting.
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