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Old 10-21-2006, 10:58 PM   #571
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wow thats pretty impressive thats the first i have seen of that, use red locktight going thru the hubcarrier into the alumn. and make sure there is no binding with the upper arms or anywhere else. if the kyoshos work i say use that but i haven't heard of a single one of those break.
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:02 AM   #572
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WOW! Never seen that either!! Snapped them babies right off! I had heard that they were a week spot on previous hyper buggies (with the cast pieces), so I got 3 extra pair of them to have with me at the track, but I have never had any problems, other than losing a couple of the screws that go through them.
Sorry about your luck man.....
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Old 10-25-2006, 02:42 PM   #573
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How's everyone doing with your H8s?

I'm trying to setup mine for a local practice track. However, I'm not sure what are the purpose and effect for the holes at certain location:

1) front upper arm hinge pin (shock tower)
2) front C-hub upper holes (the two holes that goes with the front upper turnbuckle)
3) the upper and lower holes on the top portion of the rear upright

I hope I didn't get the terms wrong. TIA
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Old 10-25-2006, 03:35 PM   #574
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these are called camber change holes what they do is effect the roll center of the buggy, what they effect is camber gain thru the stroke of travel. if you notice you camber at your wheel changes as you push down on your buggy. the way it works is the shorter the upper link the more camber gains thru the stroke, the longer the camber link the less camber gain thru the stroke. so what it effect is forward and side traction. less camber gain results in more forward traction and less sidebight due to the fact the tire stays flatter and has a wider contact patch with the ground during acceleration.

so

1. lower hole on shock tower makes a shorter link than the upper hole. if your looking for more steering use the lower hole. give you more side bite.

2. the change at the hub works the same but has a bigger effect shorter the link more camber gain.

3. the rear again works the same going from outside upper to be the longest and inside lower to be the shortest. the changes are the same on the rear shock tower as well. if the back in spins around easy then you will want to shorten the camber link and if you want it to slide around easier then you want to lengthen the camber link.

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Old 10-25-2006, 05:02 PM   #575
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Another question. Do you guys use a longer steering servo horn or similar modification to allow more steering angle? I've been trying to look for one among the LHS that I know of but none of them has one.
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Old 10-25-2006, 05:08 PM   #576
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i use the kit supplied servo horn on the steering and i had to turn the epa down so that the tires weren't being pulled into the a-arm. i get just a slight grinding on the a-arm. if your radio doesn't have a epa (end point adjustment) then you will have to turn up your radios dual rate until the tires get full lock. later
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Old 10-25-2006, 05:10 PM   #577
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I've already put my H8 up for the winter.....it's all cleaned up and sittin on the shelf waiting for a vacation to some place warm, or next spring to get here...lol.

One thing I did try though at the last race this year was.....I was using Rocket's set-up still, for the most part, but I knew the track was going to be higher bite than normal, so I put heavier shock fluid in it all the way around. I put 45 in the front, and 40 in the rear. I also did the normal things I would do when the track had better traction (taking out some droop). I liked the way the buggy handled with this set-up...it definitely made it more stable and predictable. The track was SUPER smooth though.....
Anyway, can't wait for next spring already. I'll have to get my R/C fix with some indoor electric racing this winter...
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:12 PM   #578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket42
i use the kit supplied servo horn on the steering and i had to turn the epa down so that the tires weren't being pulled into the a-arm. i get just a slight grinding on the a-arm. if your radio doesn't have a epa (end point adjustment) then you will have to turn up your radios dual rate until the tires get full lock. later
If that's the case, isn't the steering arm supposed to be placed on the side where the servo is or the side that's away from the servo is the correct one?
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Old 10-26-2006, 06:30 PM   #579
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not sure what you mean but the linkange is supposed to be over the servo wich would be inside center line of car hope that helps
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Old 10-26-2006, 06:36 PM   #580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket42
not sure what you mean but the linkange is supposed to be over the servo wich would be inside center line of car hope that helps
I mean is the steering linkage supposed to be placed on the side of the servo horn that face away from the car or the side that face towards the center of the car?
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Old 10-26-2006, 07:11 PM   #581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madikes
I mean is the steering linkage supposed to be placed on the side of the servo horn that face away from the car or the side that face towards the center of the car?
Put it this way - Instead of laid-down, look at the servo in upright position.
So what you asking is whether should the steering linkage be below or on top of the servo horn right ?.

It should be below as Rocket42 said so that the linkage is in line with the servo-saver. However, I used 'Sanwa' ('Airtronics' over your side) horn & it seemed to be too short and rubbed a hole on the servo cover in it's forward (left turn) stroke with the EPA set not even in full left steer lock. I guess a longer horn is necessary.
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Old 10-27-2006, 04:11 AM   #582
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Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone's tried the new CNC rear hubs?
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Old 10-27-2006, 07:27 AM   #583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1 Nutter
Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone's tried the new CNC rear hubs?
No, I hadn't had any problems with the stock ones yet, so I hadn't spent the moeny to make the upgrade....Maybe next year, but I usually don't upgrade something that doesn't give me problems. But, I'm on a more limited budget...
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Old 10-27-2006, 06:59 PM   #584
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Where I live in Georgia we race all year round. I sure do like my Hyper 8 much better then any of my other racers monster truck and a stadium truck! I have only had my Hyper 8 running for about 2 weeks but have run 2 gallons through it with breaking in two engines an OS RG and a STS D21B.
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Old 10-27-2006, 09:17 PM   #585
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The reason I ask about CNC rear hubs is that I just got them but am having trouble fitting them. First I just got the hubs and tried to fit them on the old rear arms but the rear track width was then narrower. I then got the 'stretched' rear arms and had no problem fitting the hubs but these new arms have a very large hole (big enough for about a 6mm screw) where the droop screw goes in. I'm wondering if there is some sort of insert or if I just need a really fat screw.
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