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Old 08-24-2006, 04:15 AM   #541
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Extra care has to be taken with a standard crank, so as not to damage the thread. But in all honesty, how many 1/8th buggy drivers run an engine with a standard crank? It's not even an option on most racing engines these days. Even with the the 'normal' SG cranks that we normally run, you still have to be careful not to chew up the portion of the crank where the clutch bearings sit. A small portion of inner-tube rubber (or something similar) can help here.

Wyldthing: This is only an issue if the flywheel slips AND the nut is still tight due to the use of thread lock. This should very rarely happen under normal circumstances, lets be honest. In this instance, if the user is planning on removing the nut by holding the crank, it's best to use vice-grips to hold the crank and some form of adjustable pliers or adjustable spanner to turn the flywheel nut. If the nut isn't actually torqued up against the flywheel, and only the thread lock is making it tight, it shouldn't be that tight anyway, nor pose any real challenge to remove unless the user has used stud lock or red thread lock by mistake.

Either way, there is never any real justification to lock the engine to remove the the flywheel nut, or to damage the crank by using the technique I described above.

Any newbies out there:

No one I know who races at nationals locks their engines to remove the flywheel!! And unless you want to keep breaking perfectly good engines, neither should you!

Heed the warning.......
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:39 AM   #542
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Well if some of you went back to my previous posts you would have read that I used blue non LOCKTITE brand thoughout my car that turned out to be like steel,I guess it is used for helicopters which I did not know.In my case this nut was not going to come off without some sort of drastic manner.The posts that hold my center diff are in the furture going to have to be drilled out or cut off because of this locktite.So yes this method was not a good one but my alternatives were few.The hydro lock method did not work on this super locktite that I used.So all is good just a little less money that I get to spend on tires!Word to the wise just make sure you use name brand BLUE LOCKTITE in the future.
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Old 08-26-2006, 04:36 AM   #543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomanpat
Well if some of you went back to my previous posts you would have read that I used blue non LOCKTITE brand thoughout my car that turned out to be like steel,I guess it is used for helicopters which I did not know.In my case this nut was not going to come off without some sort of drastic manner.The posts that hold my center diff are in the furture going to have to be drilled out or cut off because of this locktite.So yes this method was not a good one but my alternatives were few.The hydro lock method did not work on this super locktite that I used.So all is good just a little less money that I get to spend on tires!Word to the wise just make sure you use name brand BLUE LOCKTITE in the future.
All those that responded to your problem obviously read your original post! Did you attempt to soak the locked items in WD40? Did you attempt to grip the crank, rather than lock the engine?

It strikes me that it's you that skipped a few posts - not us!!

You may also want to use the 'impact' method for those centre diff posts, AFTER you've allowed them to soak for a few hours in WD40. Insert the wrench into the bolt that you need to remove and tap the end of the wrench with a hammer. More often than not, the impact helps break the seal on the stubborn locktite.

It's alot less drastic than destroying the parts to remove them, so it's got to be worth a try. You never know, you might save a few extra $$ for those tyres yet! Good luck.
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Old 08-26-2006, 11:36 PM   #544
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Hey Horatio,
Was not bashing anyone just hoping that people had read about my LOCKTITE issue.Well I went for it and tried to get my front hubs apart today knowing that I was going to have these LOCKTITE issues.I took my time with pretty good results the only casualty was one screw that was LOCKTITE welded to the collet for the hubs,but all is fine and at least the front end is apart.I am going to wait a month before I try to take apart the rear hubs because I want to make some of these races that are coming up.I am so pissed about this LOCKTITE I wish there was a way for revenge.I guess my main goal this week is to get the car back together so I can go race next weekend.But it appears that I am going to have to break in a new piston & sleeve also,just hoping that I can do it all by the 9th.Thanks for all the help fellas!
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Old 08-26-2006, 11:39 PM   #545
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Oh ya,
I would like to try the method you spoke of for my center diff posts but I have a driver tip stuck in the head of the bolt which is right even with the chassis so that is a no go.
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:35 AM   #546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomanpat
Oh ya,
I would like to try the method you spoke of for my center diff posts but I have a driver tip stuck in the head of the bolt which is right even with the chassis so that is a no go.
You snapped the driver tip off in the head of the bolt? What drivers are you using?
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:46 AM   #547
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Last-but-one resort for removing stripped hex screws (or in your case - a perfectly good hex screw with a broken driver tip and stud lock!!!)

You can attempt to use a dremmel, with a thin cut-off disc, to carefully carve a groove through the head of the bolt. Then you may be able to use a screw driver to remove the offending screw, in conjunction with the impact method. The dremmel will also heat the screw as a side effect, which should aid removal

Sorry to hear that your car is a bit of a disaster area at the moment. Whoever supplied you the thread lock for RC use needs to get a grip!!

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Old 08-29-2006, 09:31 AM   #548
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Hey all,

Man my car is not a disaster area,I love this car.Well lets put it this way it`s not going to fall apart during a race LOL.Hey ROCKET I got a question about your setup that you sent me.What do you mean by DRILLED REAR CAMBER LINK and what location are you using?Also I am not sure where I stand with my droop adjustments but I would like to know how to set them evenly without a gauge?
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Old 08-29-2006, 10:19 AM   #549
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thats where you drill out the camber link it helps the car carry a little more speed thru the turns and also helps make it a little more stable. take your time drilling this hole measure 10 times before you cut. you will also have to get out the trusty dremel and remove the shock tower and cut into the rear bulkhead so that the plastic link fits and rotates freely. if you don't want to do this mod just raise the camber link to the inside upper hole on the shock tower and that would be the closest adjustment. But i think it is worth it and it will not take that long to do.

as far as setting droop from side to side (left and right tires) you set the car on a flat surface and pick it up from the center of the chassis, lift it up and if you see one wheel is coming off the ground before the other does then it needs to be adjusted so that both wheels leave the table surface at the same time, that the best way you can adjust it without a droop tool.

so i set my car on my flat table and measured droop with calipers from the table top to the bottom of the chassis front and rear. of course these measurments will not be completly accurate because i measured this with the tires on (advantage blockpass) and all tire brands differ in ht. slightly but it should put you with a couple of mm. The measurement i got was 58mm in the rear and 54mm in the front.

remember before you set the droop on your car you should remove the droop screws and grind the ends that contact the chassis flat. this will keep them from digging into the alumn. as bad which will make your chassis last longer.
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Old 08-29-2006, 12:57 PM   #550
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Hey Rocket,
Thanks for the info on the camber link although I think I will wait till next teardown to do that one.I will use the location that you suggest as an alternative.
Last night I was thinking about the droop screws and thought about setting the droop that way.I have already ground the screws flat so that won`t be an issue.Thanks again & wish me good luck on my new cylinder and sleeve break in I also am going to install the Boca bearings and seal it up good with RTV so I should be well set.
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Old 08-30-2006, 03:50 AM   #551
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in a pic from the worlds on neobuggy i noticed greg degani is using a diferent type of engine mount,does anyone know what type it is and where you can get it from
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Old 09-01-2006, 03:22 PM   #552
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5 hyper 8's in the top 15 at the worlds hopefully they can bring us a win.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:36 AM   #553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket42
5 hyper 8's in the top 15 at the worlds hopefully they can bring us a win.

GO HOBAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:28 PM   #554
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It is also 4 of the top 10 with Kortz in 4th. I think this is suprising some folks.

Top 10 Buggies
4 = HoBao
3 = Mugen
1 = Kyosho
1 = Jammin
1 = Xray
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Old 09-02-2006, 03:14 PM   #555
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Hey Rocket and the rest of you fine H8 owners.Alright I have set-up my car almost like your base setup Rocket minus the drilled camber link and I also switched to Mugen Blue Springs.I do have one question for you all before I go and re-break in my Vspec.What degree of camber are you guys using in general,I am at about -2 degrees or so.Also I did notice that one of my tires is not as worn out as the other three is there a reason for that or maybe too many right handers.Wow it is nice to see the H8s doing well at the worlds but I now understand why,this car makes even me look good.
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